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km PEiBWSS 



THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS 

OP 

A CONNECTICUT YANKEE, 

IN 

South America, Africa, Australia, and California, 



DESCRIPTIONS OF THE SEVERAL COUNTRIES, MANNERS, CUSTOMS 

AND CONDITIONS OE THE PEOPLE, INCLUDING 

MINERS, NATIVES, ETC. 

ALSO, A DETAILED ACCOUNT OF 

A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD, 

ATTENDED WITH UNTJSC,«_8ffFFE|m<3,- HARDSHIP, PEIVATION, DISAPPOINTMENT, 

AND DANGERS ARISING FROM TEARFUL STORMS; THREATENED WRECKS 

ON ROCKY TOASTS, AND AMID REEFS ; BY FIRE, 

DECEPTION, MUTINY, ETC. 

ALSO, VARIOUS INCIDENTS OF LIFE ON SHIPBOARD. 



By C. M. WELLES. 
Illustrated with Beautiful Steel Plate Engravings. 

80LD BY AGENTS ONLY. 

NEW YORK: 

AMERICAN SUBSCRIPTION PUBLISHING HOUSE. 
1860. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, by 

LUCIUS STEBBINS, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Connecticut, 









ELEOTKOTYPED AT THE 

BOSTON STEREOTYPE F U If D 11 1 , 



PREFACE 



Love of adventure, ambitious schemes, romantic 
enterprises, and visionary projects of some sort, seem 
preeminently the characteristics of men of the nine- 
teenth century — especially of young men. 

Gold has become the absorbing object, and thou- 
sands have sacrificed all that was dearest and best — 
made shipwreck of all that was purest and holiest 
— in their attempts to realize these golden dreams. 
Although, in a majority of instances, the sequel has 
proved the fallacy of these ambitious hopes and 
designs, they still are slow to believe the testimony 
of those who have tried them, and many are still 
rushing to remotest shores for anticipated gain. 

The present volume is but one of the " beacon 
lights" on this broad highway, thronged by the 
over-confident and ; if it persuade any of these of 

(3) 



4 PREFACE. 

the superiority of well-directed energy and ambition, 
if it serve to awaken in any more just conceptions 
of the true and worthy ends of life, if it create 
more enlarged and liberal views of the claims of the 
world upon individual men, the efforts of the 
writer will not have been in vain ; these chapters of 
living, actual experience, of stern reality, will not 
have been wrought out to no purpose — for whoso 
is instrumental in adding a new link to the chain of 
improvement, does something in the great and good 
work of encircling the world with beauty and glad- 
ness ; and that this effort may do some small service 
in this direction is the humble hope of the author. 

C. M. Welles. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PA9B 

Adventurous Aspirations of Early Youth. — Desire to see the 
World. — Visit to New York. — Ship for Australia in the 
Bark Peytona. — Deception in procuring a Ticket. — Dis- 
order among Officers and Crew. — Impressions of Life on 
Shipboard 9 

GHAPTER II. 

Seasickness. — Mistaken Ideas of a Voyage. — Alarming Indi- 
cations of the Ship filling with Water. — The Green Moun- 
tain Boy. — Attempt to throw the Captain overboard. <=r- 
Beauty and Majesty of the Ocean. — French Celebration. . 26 

CHAPTER III. 

Ill Forebodings. — Treachery of the Captain. — A Sabbath- 
Day Picture. — Cornish Miners. — Code of Laws. — Gov- 
ernment of the Ship. — Disturbance, and its Causes. — 
Discipline, &c 44 

CHAPTER IV. 

Personification of Neptune. — Discovery of a Barrel of Apples. 
— Efforts to obtain Water from a distant Ship. — Joy pn 
seeing Land. — Appearance of the Natives on the South 
American Coast. — Manner of Life. — " Catamarans." . 66 

1* ' (5) 



6 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER V. 

Landing at Bahia. — Beauty of the Tropical Scenery. — Visit 
of the Custom-House Officer. — Trouble by Reason of an 
undue List of Passengers. — Description of the City. — The 
Climate, Soil, and Buildings of the Place. — Visit into the 
Country. — English Chapel. — Market Places. . . .85 

CHAPTER VI. 

Romance of a Walk in the Tropical Region. — Indications of 
former Splendor. — Effort in proceeding on the Voyage. — 
Difficulties in leaving Port. — General History of Brazil. — 
Death from Delirium Tremens. — Narrow Escape from Fire. 109 

CHAPTER VII. 

Burial at Sea. — A Lunar Bow. — Table Mountain. — Terrific 
Storm. — Landing at Cape Town. — Rambles about the City. 
— Imprisonment of the Captain. — Visit to Seyola, the 
Kaffir Chief. — Prayer Meeting on Ship 134 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Byron's Sea Enthusiasm. — Make the Harbor of Port Louis. — 
Visit the Isle of Prance. — Delightful Scenery. — Grave of 
Harriet Newell. — A Malabar Funeral. — Embark in the 
Brig Nautilus. — Revolting Fare. — Land at Melbourne. . 160 

CHAPTER IX. 

Stay at Canvas-town. — Journey to Ballerat. — Purchase of a 
Claim. — Location of Tent. — Housekeeping. — Experience 
in the Mines — Disappointment of the Wardy-allock Expe- 
dition. — Return to Ballerat 179 



CONTENTS. 7 

CHAPTER X. 

Various Adventures in and about Ballerat. — A Magpie. — 
Visit to Creswick Creek. — Power of Kindness over Con- 
victs. — The Old Woman. — Walking Leaves. — Take the 
Sacusa for Callao. — Description of Australia. . . . 200 

CHAPTER XI. 

Monotony of Sea Life. — Change of Time by the Omission of 
a Day. — Landing at South America. — Disappointed Hopes 
with Reference to Gold. — False Reports purposely circu- 
lated. — Stay at Lima. — Earthquake of 1746. — Roman 
Festival 223 

CHAPTER XII. 
Pleasure of "Variety." — Proximity of Joy and Sorrow. — 
The Yellow Fever. — Voyage to Panama. — Arrival at San 
Francisco. — Scenes at the Post Office. — Situation of the 
City. — Impressions of Different Men. . . . .251 

CHAPTER XIII. . 

Life at Sacramento City. — French Creek. — Captain Pike. — 
" Sly Diggings." — Mud and Diamond Springs. — School 
Houses. — Mammoth Trees. — Snakes. — Mountain. Scenery. 
— Influence of Curiosity 273 

CHAPTER XIY. 

Mormon Refugees. — Visit to Gold Canon. — Varied and rough 
Experience among the Mountains. — Return alone to Sacra- 
mento. — Night in the Cave of the Hermit. — Solitude. — 
Its Effects. — Lonely Camping in the Woods. — Digging at 
French Creek , . . .296 



8 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XV. 

Residence at San Francisco. — " Pop- Corn Institution." — Life 
on Steamer Cortes. — Pearl Islands. — Interview with Fa- 
ther Guernsey. — Missionary Tour. — School Teaching. — 
Camp Meeting. — Their Influence in New Settlements. . 319 i 

CHAPTER XYI. 

Voyage Home. — Attempt at Suicide. — Natural Features of 
California. — Its beautiful Climate, fertile Soil, and delightful 
Scenery. — Reflections upon Men and Manners. — Superi- 
ority of American Character and Genius 343 



THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS, 



CHAPTER I. 



ADVENTUROUS ASPIRATIONS OP EARLY YOUTH. — VISIT 
TO NEW YORK. — SHIP FOR AUSTRALIA IN THE BARK 
PEYTONA. — IMPRESSIONS OF LIFE ON SHIPBOARD. 

Was there ever a boy who did not expect to 
travel and see the world for himself? The 
early and prominent characteristic of enthusi- 
astic boyhood is a love of novelty and ad- 
venture ; and when this is fed by the glowing 
descriptions and stirring details of interested 
travelers, wonder and curiosity cannot be re» 
strained, and the desire to see and know becomes 
an almost irresistible impulse. Ignorant of 
the " enchantment " that " distance " sometimes 
" lends to view," other lands and climes seem 
like the a Elysian fields " of classic fame. The 
broad ocean, with its rolling tides and sweeping 
billows, bearing on its crested bosom proud 

(9) 



10 YOUTHFUL ASPIRATIONS. 

ships, with their snowy sails ; the great beauty 
of natural scenery in certain localities ; odorous 
gales from island shores ; golden treasures im- 
bedded in the richly freighted earth, — all come 
home like so many notes of bewitching melody, 
kindling the fervor of youthful imagination, 
to make the world appear a perfect El Dorado 
of hope. 

Wiser people may descant upon tame reali- 
ties that dissipate the charm of actual expe- 
rience, and on the folly of aimlessly pursuing 
the phantom ; but the reply is usually like that 
of the aspiring youth to his father, offering 
like counsel under different circumstances — "I 
would see the folly for myself? 

Such, emphatically, were my own feelings. 
A desire to see the world had haunted me for 
many years, by night and by day, and was 
continually prompting me to the formation of 
some plan by which my fond anticipations 
might be realized. 

Receding months and years, however, seem 
destined to bear nothing to me but the un- 
satisfactory experience of deferred hope; for, 
in truth, I was no favorite of Fortune, and the 



VISIT TO NEW YORK. 11 

u unconquerable bar of Poverty " ever mocked 
my progress, though it in no wise tended to 
diminish the ardpr of my adventurous spirit. 
In the month of December, 1852, while out of 
business, I visited New York, still on the alert 
for every indication that betokened the dawn- 
ing of that era, the attractive features of which, 
I confidently hoped, would fill the records of 
my future history with well-acquired glory for 
myself, beside imparting somewhat of pleasure 
and benefit to others. 

Little did I think, upon my first landing in 
the city, the first link was already formed in 
the chain of circumstances that was conspiring 
to bring about the long-desired result. 

Repairing to the docks one day, my mind, 
as usual, filled with visionary schemes, and in 
my heart half envying those already upon 
the surging waves, who were so much nearer 
the goal of their ambition than I, my atten- 
tion was arrested by a handbill with the most 
inviting caption: "Yacht Excursion to Aus- 
tralia." 

The Peytona, it appeared, a clipper bark 
of the first class, six hundred tuns burden, 



12 ALLURING ADVERTISEMENT. 

would leave the port, on the approaching first 
of January, for Port Philip and Melbourne. 

The fair representations were seized with 
avidity, and I longed to enter at once a career 
of such prospective brilliancy. 

Flattering inducements were held out to 
those who were desirous of making the voy- 
age, as the notice will show. 

" She will be Jilted up in a style as elegant as 
unique, and fresh provisions ivill be furnished for 
nearly half the voyage. It is confidently expected 
she will land her passengers at Melbourne on the 
sixtieth day from New York, including stoppages. 
No such opportunity as this has ever been offered 
to gentlemen desirous of visiting that enchanting 
region. It is not fair to compare this ship with the 
ordinary class of vessels hitherto fitted out, and now 
advertised for Australia, as the Peytona is above 
competition from any quarter. She will take an 
experienced surgeon; and all the attention of a 
first-class hotel will be granted in the most liberal 
manner. 

Proprietor, Captain A. Pelletier, 

98 Wall Streets 



ENTHUSIASTIC ANTICIPATIONS. 13 

A rare opportunity indeed ! was my mental 
soliloquy. Who knows but the favorable time 
has come for me ? I desire to go ; and this, 
perhaps, may be the key that will throw wide 
the hitherto barred gates of the world for my 
entrance. I mil enter " a first class hotel," too. 
Cleopatra's barge would sink into insignifi- 
cance beside our floating palace, and all her 
et ceteras be as nothing in comparison with the 
luxurious surroundings that would be ours in 
the two months' journeying to the a enchanted 
regions." A second thought, however, served 
to weaken the foundation on which my airy 
castle had been so suddenly reared; for the 
sober conviction forced itself upon my mind, 
that a penniless, friendless youth, like myself, 
was in no promising condition for such an 
enterprise. 

Notwithstanding this, I was firm in my de- 
termination to go, if possible, and if difficulties 
would obstruct the open path, they should but 
incite to greater action, and perchance they 
might vanish, in the beginning, before the 
energy of a resolute will. 

I at once conceived the importance of pre- 
2 



14 RETURN HOME. 

liminary measures, and to this end repaired to 
the office of the proprietor, where I had an \ 
interview, the result of which was, the promise 
of a free passage to Australia, provided I could 
insure six passengers for the Peytona, beside 
myself. 

Now, I verily thought, the "cloud" was 
pierced, and its "silver lining" fully displayed, 
so bright and strong were my expectations of 
promised pleasure. Stories of the rich profu- 
sion of shining ore in the land whither we 
were bound, were already in circulation, and I 
doubted not it would be an easy matter to en- 
list the requisite number for the accomplish- 
ment of my purpose ; being aware that men 
in general consider no prospect more alluring 
than the easy acquisition of golden dust. 

My mind, of course, naturally reverted to 
my Connecticut associates as the surest source 
from whence I could draw the little company ; 
and, intent upon the feasibility of the project, 
I hastened home, and with earnestness becom- 
ing a good cause, endeavored to infuse into 
the spirit of others some measure of that 
enthusiasm which animated my own. 






COMPANIONS FOUND. 15 

I found my coveted reward in a sufficient 
number of pledges to enable me to look for- 
ward with confidence to the fulfilment of my 
hopes. 

It is not necessary for me to recount the 
incidents ; the feelings that influenced, and 
the motives that actuated, our little band in 
the speedy adoption of the plan. Nor is it 
essential that I specify the reason which in- 
duced me to apply nearly all my own scanty 
funds for the purchase of a ticket for my 
young fellow-townsman and friend, — John 
Harman, — one whom I regarded as even 
more unfortunate than myself. 

Beside us were Harry Yates, Jim Darrow, 
Buckley, Smith, and Brown ; seven " poor but 
virtuous" men, ill-used by fortune, and little 
careful whither fate should lead them. 

For myself, the world opened before me a 
broad and inviting field of action, and my feet 
were burning to tread the farther shore of the 
vast ocean. 

It took but a short space of time to com- 
jplete our arrangements ; and these at an 
lend, we bade adieu to the familiar scenes of 



16 DELAY OF SAILING. 

Hartford, and if we felt an emotion of regret at j 
the last look of her receding spires, they were \ 
mostly stilled by the powerful voice of Hope, | 
which beckoned us away. On the 25th of | 
January of the new year, we all met on board 
the Peytona, lying at the dock, foot of Wall 
Street ; it having lingered thus far beyond its 
appointed day of sailing. 

We selected our berths ; placed our names 
respectively on each ; arranged our chests in 
front as seats, and were ready, as we bravely 
thought, for any and all events. 

Still day succeeded day, without any signs 
of departure, until the 29th, when orders were 
issued for passengers to pay their fare and 
secure tickets. I collected my friends in the 
office of the captain, introduced them as such, 
and saw them produce the requisite material 
for the purchase of a passport through. 

I felt somewhat sensitive in seeming to have 
paid my passage, by securing theirs, and conse- 
quently remained silent till they left, when I 
asked the captain for my ticket, and was sur- 
prised to meet with a peremptory refusal. To 
this I remonstrated, but to no purpose. I 



SCANTY RESOURCES. 17 

could do nothing. I saw his advantage, and 

concluded there was no alternative for me but 

I to give the contents of my slender purse into 

1 the hands of the miserable deceiver. I did so, 

! and from the meager pittance remaining, I 

;! bought three cheap shirts, and a scanty steam- 

j boat blanket for my friend John, and the same 

i for myself. This done, my earthly possessions 

! consisted of a few clothes, a watch, and two 

dollars and a half in gold, wherewith to make 

the voyage to Australia. 

Memory recalled the instance of a traveler 
who equipped himself satisfactorily for a voy- 
age around the world with only a tin cup. 
Though I professed to believe, more or less 
| strongly, in the doctrine that a man wants but 
little here below," I must confess to a decided 
reluctance in narrowing down the circle of my 
desires to actual necessities in my own case ; 
much less to bring myself to the meritorious 
standard of my illustrious precedent. 

Disappointment indeed lingered upon the 
very threshold of my course ; but the decree 
had gone forth, and I chose not to revoke it. 
The impression was unavoidable that some- 
2* 



18 DEPARTURE OF THE SHIP. 

thing was wrong. The rumor was in circula- |fi 
tion that some of the New York passengers I 
had placed an injunction upon the vessel, and f 
at this juncture of affairs, had money been p 
plenty, or even employment in the city, my j) 
delegation from the Nutmeg State might have f 
been strongly tempted to abandon the voyage, j 
We wandered about, meeting daily to consider \ 
matters ; sometimes on board the Pey tona, ; 
sometimes on the Battery, and again at Pelle- ., 
tier's office. A constant watch was maintained, 
as something in the conduct of the captain in-i;i 
timated there might be an object to accom- ; 
plish in sliding off without us. 

On the 9th of February, however, we had 
the satisfaction of seeing the vessel start from I; 
her quiet moorings ; and as this day marks the j 
beginning of the records of this eventful period 1 
of my history, I shall transcribe incidents as j] 
they were penned at the time in the order of r 
their dates. 

We are now at sea ; and such a prospect ! I 
no better than a floating bedlam, notwithstand- 1 
ing all the fair promises of order and comfort. 
This afternoon a steam tug made fast to us, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE CAPTAIN. 19 



and Pelletier, appearing among the men, or- 
dered some of them to weigh anchor, no one, 
{ apparently, being appointed for the purpose. 
j At the same time a proclamation was issued 
' that the passage tickets were to be taken, and 
1 all those not determined to go must return. 

The official command of the ship, it seems, 
' is to be assumed by Jackson, whom Pelletier 
J has introduced to the ship's company as cap- 
tain — a tall, broad-shouldered, hard-featured, 
; red-faced, grizzly-haired, brandy-looking old 
fellow, without a single redeeming quality in 
his unprepossessing exterior. 

All assembled on deck to gaze at the pleas- 
ant scenery about the Bay, being somewhat 
elastic in spirits, in spite of depressing influ- 
ences, and prepared to appreciate the motion 
of the bark after so long a time of inexplica- 
ble detention. The city and the shipping 
have been saluted with innumerable disor- 
derly cheers, for the idea of doing things 
Ci decently and in order," in this Babel-like 
confusion, is out of the question. 

We have a strong reenforcement of passen- 
gers from the steamer while passing down the 



L 



20 DEFICIENCY IN THE SHIP'S COMPANY. 

Bay, making comfort a word of still more ! 
doubtful meaning than before. 

The tug has cast off, and a few men, with 
their hearts failing them at the eleventh hour, 
have returned with her. 

Captain Jackson, duly installed in authority, 
stepped forward on the deck, singing out at 
random, " Forward, there ! H'ist away that 
jib ! " " Loose that fore-topsail, will ye ? " 

As no one responded to the call, it caused a 
look of astonishment, a moment's hesitation, 
and then in a voice that reminded me of a 
tornado, came the exclamation, " Where the — 
is my crew ? " 

A ridiculous query ! it seemed at the mo- 
ment, though, as it proved, not altogether un- 
seasonable; for, upon inquiry, we find the 
officers, beside the captain, to be Payson, the 
first mate, a stalwart down-easter, and Grant, 
the second mate. Of course we are minus a 
foremast hand. A momentary lull in the hub- 
bub and turmoil of multitudinous voices and 
movements followed the outbreak, but was 
suddenly disturbed by the loud ejaculation, 
a I'm one," from a hard-looking young fellow, 



A CREW SELECTED. 21 

who seemed almost the personification of reck- 
lessness. "Come, hoys" he added, looking, 
apparently, to some of his comrades, and in a 
few moments a crew was enrolled from the list 
of passengers, to whom usual wages were prom- 
ised. They immediately turned to, the orders 
were repeated, and in a little time sail was 
made upon the bark, and she was laying her 
course. 

Confusion is not confined to the ship's crew. 
Unexpected perplexity arises also from other 
sources. As for us Connecticut men, however, 
we are snugly ensconced in our recess, dimly 
lighted with a a bull's eye " in the deck, and to 
be sure well-strown with trunks and chests. 

Our number is diminished by one, he having 
received a letter from his wife almost at the 
last moment, full of pathetic appeal, which in- 
fluenced him to relinquish his golden hopes, 
and return, no doubt thinking, with the poet, 
"Be it ever so humble, there's no place like 
home." 

Into his place, and one other bunk of our 
compartment, we have admitted a very respec- 
table Englishman and lady — Mr. and Mrs. 



«** 



22 A GERMAN NOBLE. 

Hope ; rather close packing for delicate, fern- [I 
inine natures, but under the circumstances shef 
may consider it good fortune. 

The Peytona has accommodations for only 
one hundred and fifty passengers, and we fjj 
have, at least, two hundred ; making fifty, 
who, in the nature of things, can have little 
opportunity to enjoy the benefit of " tired 
nature's sweet restorer," provided Morpheus 
should deign to visit such scenes of confusion 
at all. Of course Pelletier, in his grasping 
meanness, has sold the places twice over. 

Among the last arrivals are some fine-appear- 
ing French people, who have reposed a mis- 
placed confidence in their smart compatriot of 
Wall Street We have also a German lord, — 
no less than the high-born "Prince Paul, of 
Wirtemberg," — the well-known naturalist, — 
a portly and pompous personage, with a truly 
aristocratic gait, apparently not less than sev- 
enty years of age. The house on the quarter 
deck, it seems, he had engaged exclusively for 
himself, suite, and baggage, and had paid for i 
the same in advance. 

His effects were sent on board, and they 



S^ATE-PRISON FARE. 23 

;| were thrown on deck by an indifferent person, 

j where they remain hopelessly scattered, with 
a vast quantity in like predicament. 

As for his prepaid quarters, he finds en- 
camped therein a crew of regardless and 
unterrified New Yorkers, who laugh him, his 
princeship, his pre-payments, and his peremp- 
tory commands, to scorn. One little berth 
only, in the cabin, is allowed him ; and as for 
his suite, nobody knows where they are. 

We have had supper, b — state-prison fare, — 
at least I can think of no hotel, (to quote our 
advertising promises,) except the public house 

! at Sing-Sing, where " every attention " certainly 
means no more than it does here ; a few pieces 

; of boiled beef, served in tin pans, baker's 
bread, a tub of butter, and a barrel of apples. 
The grateful smell of the beef, while cooking, 
was rather cheering to our olfactories, and we 
made ready, though soon convinced that con- 
ventional readiness was entirely superfluous. 

No table invited us to a quiet meal. Half a 
dozen men secured a beef pan, each for him- 
self proceeding to operations with his jack- 
knife. 



24 PLEASANTRY. 

I made sure of my allowance by taking a 
slice from a loaf, seasoning it at the butter 
tub, pocketing an apple, seizing a modicum 
of beef, and retired to a corner. 

"All the attention of a first-class hotel, 
boys!" shouted Yates, as I was escaping 
from the crowd. A loud laugh showed the 
appreciation of the hit at the false pledges of 
the owner. 

It is quite late as I write, and the vessel is 
not still yet. The bunks are full, and the 
remainder of the unhappy passengers are laid 
out on the table, or promiscuously strewed 
about among the baggage. 

We are a miserably cheated company; so 
much is evident already. I believe we present 
a more perfect spectacle of dire discomfort 
and confusion than was ever before witnessed, 
especially in such narrow limits. Some excep- 
tions, however, in a group of men ; English 
factory operatives, apparently, who seem de- 
termined to bring harmony into confusion, if 
they can not educe it from it. 

They have traveled before, and have cun- 
ningly selected the best-lighted part of the 



MUSICAL PERFORMANCES. 25 

"saloon," as we call the steerage, and there, 
seated together, they have remained during all 
the unutterable disturbance — the swearing, 
quarreling, searching for sleeping places and 
baggage, lamentations and reproaches ; imper- 
turbably scraping and blowing upon two fid- 
dles, a clarionet, accordeon, and trombone, as 
peaceably as if they were on Parnassus, in- 
stead of a place well-nigh resembling Pande- 
monium. Their music possesses but few 
charms, except for their own enraptured 
selves, however. 

No better opportunity, I imagine, to test 
character, in all its points, than life on ship- 
board. Every variety of disposition is here 
fully manifest; every conceivable phase of 
human nature openly developed ; and whoever 
comes out of the scathing ordeal, " possessing 
the soul" in patience and integrity, may be, 
set down as perfect heroes end heroines, fully 
prepared to act well their part in the great 
drama of life, whatever it may be, or wher- 
ever. 

3 



. 



CHAPTER II. 

SEASICKNESS. — MISTAKEN IDEAS OP A VOYAGE. — 
ALARMING INDICATIONS OP THE SHIP FILLING. DIS- 
ORDER AND MISMANAGEMENT AMONG THE CREW. 

THE FRENCH CELEBRATION. 

10th. — Great abundance of haggard faces 
this morning, indicating unrefreshing sleep, 
imperfect ablutions, and, if I mistake not, sin- 
cere and early repentance of this most unprom- 
ising adventure. A majority of the ship's com- 
pany, including even Payson, the mate, have 
been seasick. I am constitutionally free from 
this tendency, consequently have had an oppor- 
tunity to show forth practical sympathy in 
efforts to promote the comfort of the poor crea- 
tures lying about on deck in almost deadly 
misery, groaning most pitifully, and refunding 
their provisions. 

The sea is rough, and the day has been 
showery ; but the close air of the steerage is 
unendurable, and they must needs take the 

(26) 



HOMESICKNESS. 27 

pelting of the rain, and the a chilly nor'-wester/' 
with the slender and only consolation that 
recovery will make better. 

Many and sorrowful are the wishes I have 
heard expressed from one and another, that 
they had not left home and home comforts, 
good situations, good business, kind friends, to 
suffer so much, merely for the chance of gain, 
by toiling for gold in a foreign land. My 
attempts to console them are seconded by one 
of the passengers, a tough old sea captain, who 
is constantly repeating the animating words, 
" Cheer up, my lads ; never let your hearts fail 
you!" 

There is, after all, considerable practical 
sense in the story of a father who had a soil 
strongly desirous of a seafaring life, and his 
ingenious method of cooling his aspirations. 
He gave him a powerful emetic, shut him up 
in a box, intrusted it to a man, with instruc- 
tions to jolt him about the streets for an hour 
or two. It is unnecessary to state the subject 
was never broached again. 

People contemplating a sea voyage usually 
think so much more of the dangers 'to be en- 



28 WANT OF FORETHOUGHT. 

countered than of daily privations and disa- 
greeables, that they neglect to provide many 
little articles indispensable to comfort and con- 
f venience on a long voyage. 

This is eminently the case with our com- 
pany. Very few are provided with more than 
an outfit for a short land journey. 

They seemed to forget they could not prac- 
tice shopping every morning, or perhaps ima- 
gined the ship would afford an inexhaustible 
supply. 

To travel commodiously and pleasantly at 
sea requires more philosophy than to live on 
land ; more apparatus and foresight than jour- 
neying on Terra Firma. 

One or two speculative fellows, with an eye 
intent upon their own interest, having some 
understanding of the matter, have laid in gen- 
erous supplies of certain miscellaneous com- 
modities, such as soda-water, crackers, choc- 
olate, confectionery, cigars, woolen hose, &c, 
which they readily dispose of at treble their 
cost. 

11th. — Yates, who has been to California, 



SMOUGING. 29 

has suggested a division of the steerage com- 
pany into three messes. The necessity of such 
an organization is too evident to allow objec- 
tion, and they are at once enrolled, numbered 
accordingly, and to each a carver is voted, for 
the purpose of serving out the food in an equa- 
ble manner — a most welcome change. 

"Smouging," a contemptible name for con- 
temptible stealing, has been the order of the 
day. 

Yates apprised us in season of the universal 
imposition practiced upon ocean passengers by 
giving them tolerably good fare at first, and 
wretched afterwards. Judging, from our first 
day's experience, we could not presume upon 
imperial luxuries to come, and considering the 
necessities of the case, the facts stated in Har- 
ry's exposition, additional matters well known 
to us, such as the mysterious disappearance of 
the half-emptied butter tub at the very first 
meal, and like things, we deliberately agreed 
to " smouge." 

"Good!" said Harry; "there's a barrel of 
first-rate bread now, and we shall have misera- 
ble stuff before two days are over. Let's fill 
3* 



30 SABBATH ON SHIPBOARD. 

our bags with that!" No sooner said than 
done. Half a bushel was secured in a dirty 
clothes bag, pillow-cases served for the rest, 
and the spoils were hung at the head of our 

bunks. 

An arrangement entered into from sheer 
necessity, with an eye to the future, not ours 
only, but our companions in misery. 

12th. — No appropriate sights or sounds 
usher in the peaceful hours of the sacred Sab- 
bath. No service, neither place, preacher, nor 
congregation; and, indeed, almost any thing 
might be nurtured to worship as easily as this 
sick, unhappy, and restless crowd. 

General low spirits have predisposed the 
passengers to fright. A few angry-looking 
clouds this morning gave rise to all sorts of 
prophecies of coming storms, and many doleful 
stories of shipwreck and peril. 

A squall struck us suddenly, and threw us 
nearly on our beam-ends, and for a moment we 
thought to realize them. The alarm was in- 
stantaneous and great, for the ignorant major- 
ity thought their last hour had surely come. 



FEARFUL APPREHENSIONS. 31 

Some one, more experienced, cried out jeer- 
ingly, "Put a handspike in the lee scuppers 
and right her," which only served to increase 
the discomfiture of those untutored in nautical 
expressions and affairs. 

Suddenly the cry arose, that the ship was 
filling, and must inevitably sink. The captain 
himself seemed to believe it, and uttered vari- 
ous exclamations of fright, which alarmed all, 
especially the women. An examination was 
immediately held, which showed five feet of 
water in the hold, beside several inches on the 
cabin floor, surging about, wetting every thing 
and every body. 

Nobody knew from whence it came, the ship 
having been considered uncommonly stanch 
and tight; but the discovery was at length 
made, that the ventilators which opened under 
the bulwarks, just above the deck, had been 
open since leaving port, and the heavy sea, 
beating against the sides of the ship, had forced 
the water through them. The ventilators are 
now closed, and strong bands of passengers are 
relieving each other at the pumps. All our 
" smouged " biscuit are ruined. They must go 



32 A HEAVY GALE. 

overboard to-morrow. Some truth in the prov- 
erb, " Stolen gear never prospers." 

14th. — Sunday night the pumps were in 
operation the whole time, freeing the ship by 
morning, with no more harm done than the 
thorough drenching of baggage and stores, 
many of which seem to have been resolved 
into their original elements. 

Yesterday the wind increased to a gale, the 
sea rose until it constantly swept us fore and 
aft, and poured a steady stream down our mis- 
erable hatchway. The water rose inch by inch 
about our feet in the cabin, which caused an- 
other fright, as many were not sure but it 
rushed in at some leak. Coverings were taken 
from the bunks and injected into the wide 
space between the hatchway, and the ill-fitted 
"umbrella," or outer cover; but one after an- 
other they washed through and were carried 
out to sea, till every one in the saloon was 
gone. During the excitement, the captain ap- 
peared, lantern in hand, pretending to search 
for the source of the water in the cabin. 

He insisted upon all believing it came from 



THE CREEN MOUNTAIN BOY. 33 

the hold. His superior wisdom and obstinacy, 
however, are mainly attributable to the influ- 
ence of the intoxicating draught, which unfits 
him to navigate even himself correctly, much 
less a bark like this, freighted with human 
souls. 

During the continuance of the gale, Fowler, 
a Green Mountain Boy, — a profane, careless 
fellow, — was exceedingly terrified by the unac- 
customed sights and sounds of the storm, and 
threw himself upon his knees, crying vehe- 
mently for mercy, and that he might be re- 
stored safely to his native land. 

The sailors, indignant at his unseasonable 
devotions, and still more at his being in their 
way, roughly pushed him aside ; but the poor 
fellow withdrew into another place, to continue 
his supplications unmolested. 

How instinctively the heart of man knows 
the true and only source of help ! — knows, yet 
wilfully neglects it. 

The over-crowded vessel had not afforded 
room for all the baggage, nor all the heavy 
freight ; consequently a large number of trunks 
and packages had been lashed to the quarter- 



34 the captain's obstinacy. 

deck. This began to break loose, and Payson, 
the mate, ordered them to be thrown over- 
board. 

Some of the passengers reluctantly com- 
menced the work of destruction ; but the cap- 
tain soon countermanding the order of his first 
officer, they desisted. 

Our bark was in violent motion, and freight, 
casks, baggage, and every thing else were pre- 
cipitated from side to side with fearful rapidity, 
to the imminent peril of every life and limb on 
deck. 

Absolutely it must go, order or no order, or 
the ship could not be worked ; and again they 
resorted to the necessary expedient, only to 
meet with a second rebuff from the captain, 
who stood with u quarter-axe " in hand, threat- 
ening to cut down the man who persisted in 
such a course. 

At this, half a dozen seamen sprang at him, 
and had he not been too much intoxicated, a 
serious affray might have followed. As it was, 
it proved but a brief struggle before he was 
disarmed, overpowered, and secured. The men 
in their rage threw him over the sides of the 



HARMLESS PISTOLS. 35 

ship, and were on the point of giving him a 
cold bath, when some one, expostulating, caused 
him to be drawn in, when they thrust him into 
his state room, and turned the lock. 

Soon after, while pacing up and down, and 
looking at his window, I was horrified to see 
his infuriated visage directly before me, and 
his pistol aimed at my head. "Click!" went 
the lock, and for an instant I thought myself a 
dead man. Fortunately the weapon missed 
fire ; I speedily sought safer quarters, at the 
same time shouting to one of the crew, "Jim, 
he's got his pistols; he's got his pistols, and has 
.just fired at me." "Never mind," rejoined he, 
coolly, a we drew the charges before we let him 
have them." 

In a few hours he was liberated, and came 
out determined upon revenging such treat- 
ment; but the passengers assuring him all 
would be right in the morning, he retired, and 
this morning at daybreak appeared, apparently 
calm. 

There has been no little excitement and dis- 
satisfaction among passengers from the very 
moment of departure. It has become a fact 



36 BAD MANAGEMENT. 

well known among us, that two captains, suc- 
cessively engaged by Pelletier to command 
the Peytona, discovered upon inspecting the 
ship's papers, so much evidence of informality, 
and such an illegally large number of passen- 
gers, that they refused to command her. 

Our provisions are scanty, and barbarously 
ill-served, beside being crowded almost beyond 
endurance. The ship's management has been 
so utterly loose and reckless, that even we, 
inexperienced landsmen, can not fail to see it. 

A thrill of horror ran through us all, in addi- 
tion to the tumultuous yet indefinable appre- 
hensions that stirred every bosom upon the 
discovery that the ship and all it contains was 
in the charge of a miserable inebriate. 

Suspicions are growing upon the mind of 
Buckley and Smith, the eldest of our special 
group, as well as myself, that there is a danger- 
ous gang of men on board, from whom some- 
thing is to be feared. 

Among these are « Big George," the first who 
volunteered as seaman, those who responded so 
promptly to his invitation, and several others, 
including Maginnis, the carver 0/ the second 



THE STOWAWAYS. 37 

mess. The latter, we are confident, from every 
indication, has already had experience of the 
" Convict's Home." 

All these are included in the " Stwuaways" 
— those who hid themselves on board till 
tickets were collected, and the vessel under 
way. 

Having thus secured free passages, they 
emerged from the coal-hole, or peak, an insuf- 
ferable little den under the forecastle, and 
other secret places, mingling boldly and un- 
questioned with the rest of the passengers. It 
is said they came from Brooklyn, and have 
contrived this means of seeing the world at the 
expense of the ship, ready for the performance 
of any thing, however treacherous or cruel, 
which they may consider for their profit or 
pleasure. Payson, the mate, is evidently 
leagued with them. 

Circumstances are not wanting to show that 
the attack upon the captain was designed for 
the mate's promotion ; that his thorough-going 
partisans, having their own way, would have 
dropped him into the sea, in order that their 
chief might assume the command. What plans 
4 



38 DELINQUENCY. 

he and they may have, further than this, we 
can only conjecture. 

It has become a matter of consultation with 
the passengers, whether they shall not insist 
upon* making some port immediately, some 
suggesting Bermuda, and others a return to 
New York ; for the prospect of performing a 
voyage of twelve thousand miles in safety, 
under the control of a tipsy commander, seems 
dubious. But there are many who prefer to 
go forward, and a change of destination could 
hardly be effected, having no leader or concert 
of action, 

17th. — Yesterday the mate convoked the 
two cooks and stewards from the cabin and 
steerage, and recapitulated to them the numer- 
ous complaints against them for filth, negli- 
gence, and disorder, ending with abundance 
of threats that they should be elevated to a 
position altogether different from any they 
desired, unless they reformed in these particu- 
lars. 

To-day the doctor, — not the ship's surgeon, 
but the cook, to whom the sailors had given 



DECEIVING THE BUTCHER. 39 

the title of M. D., not having the fear of this 
admonition before his eyes, became intoxicated, 
and set the galley on fire. 

With some there is much unpleasant feeling 
toward the supercargo, who has induced the 
captain to break the promise, made the morn- 
ing after his imprisonment, not to drink any 
more, and there are those among the passen- 
gers who even threaten to throw them both 
overboard. So much endurance is hardly to 
be understood. Some captains would have 
placed men in irons for such conduct. Surely 
we are an undisciplined crowd. 

Some of the Brooklyn gang have been play- 
ing a game upon our butcher, too. This offi- 
cial, a green Dutchman, who has but few qual- 
ifications for his present berth, had a pig to 
kill. 

Sailors have but little reason to expect any 
thing more than salt beef and hard bread 
under any circumstances ; and knowing if they 
could spoil his work, it would be their fun, and 
not their loss, they volunteered to take Hans 
under their tuition, which they did, instructing 
him to skin the pig, taking from it an enormous 



40 FINE WEATHER. 

thickness of good meat, and leaving nothing 
but a mutilated skeleton. 

There is no use complaining to the captain. 
One only meets with an indifferent reply, be 
the matter what it will, unless it be something 
that affects his fancied, personal dignity. 

19th. — We have had three days of pleasant 
weather ; have improved it in clearing the 
cabin, which was becoming extremely forbid- 
ding to any lover of neatness. 

Clear skies and balmy air have indeed 
proved humanizing in their influence. Many 
of the passengers are earlier and more thorough 
in their ablutions, less inclined to discord, and 
the evenings are enlivened with music and 
conversation. There is something beautiful 
and majestic in the appearance of the broad 
ocean, sparkling in the clear light of the moon ; 
something terrific and grand in its tempest- 
tossed billows, stirred to fury by an angry storm. 

No divine service to-day. Alas ! the captain 
does not allow it. 

22d. — Monday morning the steward became 



A DISTURBANCE. 41 

so much intoxicated we had no breakfast until 
ten o'clock. An indignation meeting was held 
by the passengers, which resulted in the dis- 
missal of the delinquent official, and the elec- 
tion of Anson Carrington, an intelligent young 
fellow, to fill his place. More disturbance 
again to-day. Hearing a tumult above, I went 
on deck, where I found undue excitement be- 
tween some of the French passengers and the 
chief mate, with one or two seamen. The sail- 
ors stood with knives drawn, and the impulsive 
Gauls were armed with bayonets obtained 
from a rack in the cabin. 

The captain saw fit to interfere at this time, 
and with pistol in hand, succeeded in parting 
the combatants without bloodshed. 

24th. — This day marks the anniversary of 
the exile of Louis Philippe, and the birth of 
the French Republic of 1848. 

The Frenchmen have had a grand jubilee 
over it, commencing with a national salute at 
sunrise, from our two quarter-deck carronades, 
and followed by loud cheers at the elevation 
of the French flag, in no wise intimidated 



42 A FESTIVAL. 

by the thoughts of its being contrary to law. 
In close conjunction to this, the "stars and 
stripes " of our own America were floating in the 
breeze, all unconscious of the incongruous por- 
tion of mankind it was waving over. A band, 
organized from the available material on board, 
played "Hail Columbia/' and the "Marseilles 
Hymn." 

To this succeeded a formal entertainment 
for the whole ship's company, the delicacies of 
which consisted of raisins, dried beef and her- 
rings, almonds and soda crackers. This was 
enlivened by enthusiastic speeches, songs, and 
toasts, not altogether inappropriate for the 
commemoration of a French revolution, and 
concluded by no less enthusiastic nghtino-. 

The mate, contrary to custom, as well as 
the steward, were intoxicated. The transition 
from angry words to blows was quick and 
sudden. The captain was strongly solicited to 
interpose, but, being in no condition himself 
for sober reflection, his only answer, prefaced 
with an oath, was, "Let them fight it out." 

The matter, of necessity, was taken in hand 
by others, and the feeling subdued for a time ; 






A SHIP SPOKEN. 43 

but the mate soon new into a rage, seized 
whatever weapons w T ere at hand, and hurled 
them at whoever came in his way. He was 
taken and closely confined, where a few hours 
served to quell the violence of his passions, 
and excite in him deep regret for his disgrace- 
ful display, after having so long been an advo- 
cate of peace, temperance, and good order. 

We must have presented a somewhat curious 
aspect to passing vessels. At 10 o'clock, A. M., 
while in the midst of some patriotic demon- 
stration, with flags flying, gunpowder burning, 
people shouting, we spoke ship Herculean, 
from New York to San Francisco. The cap- 
tain hailed us, asked the usual questions, and 
was somewhat curious to know who we were, 
and what we could be doing. The ships kept 
close company for some hours ; when, a mod- 
erate breeze springing up, we left them with 
nine hearty cheers. 

If this be patriotism, country ! thou mightst 
well blush for thy sons. 



CHAPTER III. 

ILL FOREBODINGS. — TREACHERY OP THE CAPTAIN. — 
A SABBATH-DAY PICTURE. — SHIP GOVERNMENT. — 
DISTURBANCES. — DISCIPLINE, ETC. 

a The thing in the world I am most afraid of 
is Fear," said Montaigne, "■ and with good rea- 
son — that passion alone, in the trouble of it, 
exceeding all other accidents." Some appreci- 
ation of this sentiment was mine, as I sat down 
to record the events of the 27th. 

Yague and growing apprehensions of some 
indefinable ill seem to agitate the minds of 
the passengers, not only as regards the ulti- 
mate success of the voyage, but our immediate 
safety. 

Since the assault of last week it is evident 
that, either from jealousy or some other cause, 
an almost deadly hatred exists between the 
captain and mate. Additional evils are feared 
from such an alienation of feeling among the 
principal officers of the ship. Many are de- 

(44) 



UNFRIENDLINESS OF THE SUPERCARGO. 45 

sirous of making the Cape Verde Islands, now 
about a thousand miles distant, that they may 
escape as soon as possible from this scene of 
drunkenness and confusion. 

The supercargo, who has seemed of late to 
have considerable control of matters, and to 
be the only person worth applying to for 
redress, now appears to the passengers to be 
far from friendly. 

He has had charge of the stores, and for 
some unknown reason has made way with or 
secreted the best of tiiom, leaving for us noth- 
ing but hard bread and " salt junk," otherwise 
called a old horse/' both being the cheap, ordi- 
nary fare of common sailors ; and this, evident- 
ly, what remained of some previous voyage. 
However strong the desire may be for an 
early port, the captain will doubtless be de- 
terred by the probability of being detained in 
any port we might enter, for irregular papers, 
on account of the number of passengers so far 
exceeding the legal proportions. 

Yesterday, to the utter astonishment of all, 
we were placed upon short allowance of water, 
only three pints " per diem " being measured 



46 AN INVESTIGATION. 

out to each person, for all purposes of cooking 
and for drinking. 

This course, when only eighteen days out, 
excited great surprise, and instituted active 
inquiry. A mass-meeting was convened upon 
the quarter deck, and Carrington, our lately 
elected steward, placed in the chair. A com- 
mittee of investigation was appointed — Smith 
and Buckley, and one or two from the first 
cabin. They proceeded at once to the exer- 
cise of their functions ; searched the hold as 
far as possible, and returned in a half hour to 
report a scarcity of water, for even for one 
week, at the three-pint rate. It was hereupon 
resolved to petition the captain to put into the 
nearest port ; all considerations of inconven- 
ience yielding to the imminent necessity. The 
document was drawn up, signed, and duly pre- 
sented to the captain by a deputation chosen 
for that purpose ; but being stupefied with the 
" fiery element," he coolly received it, and laid 
it aside, with no answer whatever. 

a Hope," to us, is where it was in the poet's 
vision — "aloft." 



OBSTINACY OF THE CAPTAIN. 47 

March 1st. The vessel was headed for the 
much-wished-for port, a day or two after the 
petition ; at least, so we were told by the com- 
mander ; the reality of the thing we have no 
means of knowing. He refuses to acquaint us 
with our true position, working out all his ol> 
servations alone, and turning a deaf ear to all 
inquiries made as to course or distance. 

It is true, an occasional notice of latitude and 
longitude is posted on the bulletin, side of the 
quarter-deck house \ but such is our confidence 
in the veracity of our captain, many of us 
think he would as soon make false entries as 
correct ones. We begin to be panic-stricken 
lest we die of thirst. 

Our ears have been greeted by the informa- 
tion to-day, that we are past the latitude from 
which we could have made the islands, and con- 
sequently must resume our southward course. 

A more thorough search below, however, 
has resulted in the discovery of three hundred 
gallons more of water — a circumstance that 
allays the fears of some, but only appears a 
temporary quiet to others, considering the 
length of the voyage, 



48 AN ALARM. SABBATH. 

After a new and solemn trial, we have a ver- 
dict to discharge the baker from his situation 
for fear of sinking the ship with his heavy 
bread. 

5th, Sunday. Yesterday we had another 
cry that the ship was sinking — a state of 
things ascertained to have been brought about 
by the carelessness of the officers, who had 
neglected the occasional pumping, usually 
necessary at sea. A broil occurred between 
the captain, mate, and supercargo; but we 
have come to consider fighting one of the 
common occurrences of the day. We have 
excitement daily ; more on the Sabbath, often, 
than at any other time ; making the day one 
of unrest, rather than rest. A reflective spirit, 
for once, seems hovering over all, and what is 
more, there seems a yielding to the spell. It 
is afternoon, and we are sailing quietly, about 
five degrees north of the line, before a gentle 
breeze. A group of men stand leaning over 
the rail, gazing at the eddies under the stern ; 
finding in the quiet of their own thoughts, for 
the time, a solitude as perfect as though in 



UNSUITABLE EMPLOYMENT. 49 

the midst of a desert. As for myself, I have 
secured a private apartment, by means of a 
borrowed blanket, and a coil of hawser lashed 
to the top of the quarter-deck house, and ex- 
tended to the rigging by rope-yarns, &c. 
Agreeably to the "systematic disorder" of our 
condition there is no store room for the sail- 
makers, and our spare sails and cordage are all 
lashed upon this narrow roof. The largest coil 
on the after-starboard corner I have appro- 
priated to my own use, and by a tacitly recog- 
nized law, this has become my sleeping place on 
pleasant nights, and my snug retreat by day. 

Here I can sit and write at my ease, and at 
the same time take observations of those about 
me, if I wish. 

Smith and Buckley are playing the agreea- 
ble to the ladies, Mrs. Hope and Egan, who 
are enthroned upon a couple of water casks, 
forward of the cook's department. A quiet 
company in the maintop excite strong sus- 
picions that they are engaged in the unseason- 
able diversion of card playing. Forward, the 
watch are mending clothes, relating tales of no 
serious character, or asleep in the shade* 
5 



50 

The movements of some dozen or fifteen 
persons, who have constituted a sort of u ra- 
dius vector" around the mainmast, are some- 
what amusing. The heat is such, we often sit 
all day in some shady place, fearing, if left, it 
would be lost. 

To the shades of the mainmast, accordingly, 
this little band of patient creatures resorted 
after dinner; and as the sunshine gradually 
shifted from over the swelling mainsail, falling 
upon them, one and another would change 
their position, "bringing about a slow motion, 
reminding one of the hour hand of a clock. 

But, list ! strains of music. Ah, it is u Home, 
sweet Home." How it sends a thrill through 
my heart, and moisture to my eyes! and there 
is no difficulty in discovering that others are 
affected in like manner. 

We have been twenty-four days out ; and 
in that time have become a little common- 
wealth by ourselves, with such marked indi- 
viduality as to attract the attention of others. 

The party of which I am a member are all, 
with the exception of Mr. and Mrs. Hope, from 
the "land of steady habits," and no disgrace, 



AN EXCLUSIVE FRATERNITY. 51 

I would fain believe, to our native state, though 
the praise must be understood as comparative, 
for the various thefts which we have executed, 
and are still executing, severally or together, 
although not less justifiable, perhaps, than the 
appropriation of the Indian corn repositories of 
the starving Pilgrims of Plymouth, two hun- 
dred years ago, yet would scarcely redound to 
our honor if performed while living at ease in 
good old Puritan Hartford, among the descend- 
ants of the Hookers and the Ellsworths. 

"We pass, however, as a very respectable and 
intelligent circle, and are counted such desira- 
ble associates, that we are continually solicited 
to receive one and another into our little 
brotherhood, but decline doing so, thinking it 
more prudent to maintain a polite yet firm 
exclusiveness. 

One group attracting some attention is the 
music-loving Englishmen, already alluded to, 
whose astonishing choice of a time for instru- 
mental performance was during the very first 
evening of sailing, when scarcely a semblance 
of organization was visible, and a note of har- 
mony seemed impossible. 



52 ENGLISHMEN. PRINCE PAUL. 

They have stuck together with a true John 
Bull-ish spirit,, sneering at every thing, and 
constantly telling how much better things are 
managed on board " Henglish ships." They cre- 
ate some amusement by their ultra- Yankee opin- 
ions, and half vulgar slangs and solecisms, yet 
form no undesirable feature of our social even- 
ings with their music, vocal and instrumental. 

In the first cabin are quite a number of 
French passengers, some of whom seem persons 
of respectability and fortune, who appear, by a 
peculiar sort of interest in the voyage, to be in 
some way connected with Pelletier, the miser- 
able owner, or the more dangerous captain. 

The house on the quarter deck is still occu- 
pied by the New Yorkers, whose treatment of 
the old prince, Paul of Wirtemberg, has al- 
ready been noticed. This gentleman seems to 
have lost many of his treasures at the time so 
much was consigned to the deep. Also, Mr. and 
Mrs. James, English people, have lost trunks 
containing goods estimated by themselves at 
twenty thousand dollars, which they were trans- 
porting to Australia for the purpose of estab- 
lishing themselves in business. 



NEW YORKERS. CORNISHMEN. 53 

The prince's suite, whether it was large or 
small, suddenly disappeared when he came on 
board, taking advantage, doubtless, of the dou- 
ble-refined, high-pressure style of republican 
independence which is the fashion among us. 

He seems to have plenty of the exhilarating 
beverage, and by dispensing this liberally, he 
maintains a fair understanding with those he 
chooses to make his friends ; but his unpleasant 
disposition and filthy personal habits make him 
an object of repulsion to very many. 

These New Yorkers we imagine to be clerks 
and foremen — scheming fellows, but unsuc- 
cessful in money matters, and are therefore 
repairing to the golden regions to acquire the 
fortune their own land denies them. 

Among the rest are a dozen Cornish miners, 
athletic men, who, with their mining tools and 
other accoutrements, constitute a mess by them- 
selves, occupying the whole of the midship 
house. 

They are extremely quiet, admit no one into 
their fellowship, show such a united front, and 
so much physical force, that nobody cares to 
annoy them. 

5* 



54 

Such are the component parts of our little 
nation. I speak of republican government ; but 
it sometimes seems an anomalous compound of 
the despotic and the patriarchal, or more, per- 
haps, like the times when a there was no king 
in Israel," and every man did that which was 
right in his own eyes. 

There is some discipline among the sailors, 
such as it is. The captain, when not too much 
intoxicated, stands boastingly on his own dig- 
nity, seemingly regarding the passengers as a 
herd of inferior beings. He vouchsafes no in- 
formation as to place or prospect, except in 
extreme cases, ever replying that he is master, 
and if he knows where the ship is, and where 
she is going, "it's enough." All matters relat- 
ing to those on board he leaves to their own 
unassisted management, with the exception of 
serving out food and water, which he and the 
supercargo seem to arrange together. 

We have therefore gradually arrived at a 
sort of unwritten code or common law, which 
the common sense of the whole body upholds, 
and which is promptly sustained whenever ne- 
cessary by individual might, mass meetings, &c. 



A NOVEL CODE. 55 

Theft of things necessary and convenient is 
allowable, as in Sparta, so that our Bill of 
Eights, or fundamental laws, might be compen- 
diously stated thus : — 

1. Every man for himself. 

2. Steal whatever you wish, if you can find it. 

3. Act decently, unless it is out of the ques- 
tion. 

As an example of administrative proceed- 
ings under the code, I cite the following in- 
stance : — 

Two Italians, who occupied the same bunk 
in the forward part of the steerage, were ob- 
served never to undress. To say nothing of 
the influence on the olfactory organs, we knew 
such doings, persevered in, to be provocative 
of infectious disorders, and remonstrated with 
them quite strongly, but to no purpose. 

Accordingly, some half dozen combined early 
one morning, and dragged them, in spite of 
their resistance, to the top-gallant forecastle, 
the appointed place for ablutions, where they 
were regaled with several buckets of clean sea- 
water, rather unceremoniously administered. 
With this encouragement they speedily in- 



56 

dulged in a little wash, and a change of linen, 
such as they had. 

With the liberty of the second article, one 
might witness our " smouging " a whole cask 
of porter, twelve dozen bottles, from the deck, 
first taking the superfluous precaution in our 
scrupulousness to ascertain that no one knew 
its owner. 

We arranged the bottles snugly under the 
mattresses in our bunks, and drink the black 
tonic at our leisure. Mr. and Mrs. Hope share 
with us, of course, though it has proved a 
decided misfortune to the latter. Upon her 
feather bed, the pride and delight of her heart, 
one or two bottles have been unfortunately 
broken, saturating it in such a manner as to 
insure its complete ruin. Notwithstanding the 
joint opposition of its owners, it has been 
thrown overboard. The old lady has more 
than once been found in tears, well nigh proved 
to rise from this dreadful loss, while we, unfeel- 
ing creatures, are cruel enough to laugh at her 
calamity. 

March 8th. — Lat. 5° north. Cool and light 



REFLECTIONS. 57 

winds. Captain proposes to steer for South 
America. Official jealousy and rum, however, 
are causes of almost daily trouble between the 
captain and his officers, preventing united ac- 
tion in any thing. Bloodshed was only stayed 
to-day by the interference of passengers. 

9th. — Yery hot and calm. Sea smooth and 
glassy. Nothing breaks the absolute motion- 
less glitter of its surface, except a broad and 
gentle swell, silently and steadily approaching 
us from the north, scarcely disturbing our tran- 
quillity, as it passes beneath and by us, in its 
course toward the south. 

From my retreat in the hawser, I gaze upon 
the wide expanse, and a solemn awe steals over 
my mind, as I think of the glory, majesty, and 
power of Him "who holds the waters in the 
hollow of his hands," gives them their appointed 
bounds, controls the winds and the storm, and 
sends forth, at his will, his messengers of fury, 
or mandate of " Peace." 

I shall take advantage of the quiet in pen- 
ning the history of a day's experience on board. 



58 FIRST MESS. 

We rise when we choose. All who could find 
a place have slept on deck since coming into 
warm latitudes, so that there is even less cere- 
mony than usual, most making nothing but a 
66 dog's toilet/' giving a jump and a shake, and 
it is done. As for myself and friends, we make 
it a point to take a thorough bath before break- 
fast, which we accomplish by successively throw- 
ing water upon each other. This we find to 
contribute much to our health and spirits, be- 
side keeping us in gaining order, despite our 
hard fare and bad lodging. 

Almost the first sound that greets our ears 
in early morn is from the " Doctor," who thrusts 
his frouzy head from his room, shouting, * First 
mess." 

The steerage steward repeats the words, and 
soon a hundred different voices reecho the wel- 
come call, at which multitudes seize their pails, 
basins, plates, tubs, or whatever utensil they 
have, and rush for the place of attraction, 
knowing the proverb to be in full force, " First 
come, first served." 

The hungry men arrange themselves in a 
line, not unlike those at the u General Deliv- 



SECOND MESS. 59 

ery " of a Post Office, while the carver delivers 
to each his allotted portion. 

While the earlier ones are served, the rest 
have time to jump up, secure their dishes, take 
their places behind, and in ten or fifteen min- 
utes the mess is served, and a shout of, a Second 
mess," summons another group. All scatter 
about the vessel to, eat, some in the rigging, 
some on the rail, and others on the water casks. 
Harman, Yates, and myself usually meet on 
the roof of the quarter-deck house, where, with 
conversation alternately jovial and serious, we 
dispatch our coarse viands, which are scarcely 
sufficient to meet the demands of our generous 
sea-appetites. The first cabin and officers are 
served with some pretense of form, while the 
sailors have last and least of all brought before 
them in a wooden tub. Tubs are also used for 
the Cornishmen, and the New Yorkers, who do 
their own dividing, but have little relish for 
their coarse style of food. 

Indeed, all of us have many times quoted the 
fallacious promise of the advertisement. This 
morning, as Yates and myself each drew from 
one pocket his piece of hard beef, and from the 



'60 AFTER-BREAKFAST EMPLOYMENT. 

other the still harder cracker, while sitting on 
the hawser, Yates held his up, one in each 
hand, saying, archly, "All the attention of a 
first-class hotel." 

The New Yorkers seem unable to take 
things merrily, seldom making a joke of their 
condition, or, at least, only a sour one. They 
often hail the advent of their meal, especially 
if the wooden tub contains a good, hearty 
soup, with, " Here comes the swill." 

Breakfast over, we have the time till dinner 
to mend and wash clothes, which latter process 
is accomplished by soaking them thoroughly 
and towing them overboard all day ; in telling 
stories ; reciting prose and poetry ; reading to 
each other ; playing at cards or chess ; lounging 
about and sleeping, or doing nothing what- 
ever. These occupations are varied by scan- 
dal, news, and other occurrences, corresponding 
to the excitement of newspaper paragraphs in 
land communities. Indeed, most of our scenes 
are as warlike as Othello's fortunes. 

It is rumored that the steward's wife has 
been flirting quite unjustifiably with the mate ; 
another version has it with the supercargo — 



A QUARREL. 61 

a circumstance which accounts for the constant 
quarreling between these domestic and nauti- 
cal officials. 

At one time a disturbance was noticed in 
the small, open space before the companion 
way, soon ascertained to be John Newman, 
one of our English steerage musicians, a brag- 
ging, gaseous son of Bull, scolding at Har- 
man. A ring of pleased spectators gathered 
as quickly as to a " dog fight," and in like man- 
ner encouraged the disputers. From words 
they were on the point of coming to blows, 
w r hen the burly face of the old captain was 
seen on deck, aiming at the company at the 
same time, a "nine-cornered oath," and two 
six-barreled pistols. Fear of the reckless com- 
mander quelled the tumult, and the crowd, 
noise, and quarrel disappeared together. 

We talk of the prospect for a port, and won- 
der if we are steering for Eio, Pernambuco, 
Cape Town, or, as some suggest, for a Destruc- 
tion." Nobody knows, but unless we get a 
supply of water, the latter seems the most 
probable. 

6 



G2 DINNER FARE. 

We have now only a quart for the day, each 
of us, which is served out at breakfast. 

Like quantities of wine, a dollar in money, 
and various other offers are made for a quart 
of the precious fluid. It is said the captain 
sold to a passenger, who represented himself 
as suffering, a quart of wine for one dollar and 
a half. The ship's company are unanimous in 
condemning such petty, unfeeling greediness. 

" First mess," again sounds through the ship, 
signifying the arrival of the dinner hour, and 
the rush consequent upon this announcement. 
With dishes in hand, we, perhaps, secure a 
combination of beans, potatoes, rice, soup, or 
duff, — a terrific caricature of flour pudding, — 
in exchange for, or in addition to, our usual 
beef and bread. These delicacies, on account 
of narrow cooking accommodations, are fur- 
nished only to one mess at once ; and those 
who dislike their meal are thus able to effect a 
barter with some one in another mess. 

Maginnis, the fellow whom we believe a 
graduate of the Sing-Sing institution, was, 
somehow, chosen carver of the second-steerage 
mess, and is guilty of inexcusable partiality ; 



AFTERNOON DIVERSIONS. 63 

selecting the best and largest cuts of meat, 
coupled with slices of duff of equal thickness 
from the large end of the pudding, which is 
boiled in a huge bag, of sugar-loaf form, for 
his particular friends. 

This, of course, is the origin of a quarrel, 
characterized by striking, swearing, and tum- 
bling about the deck. They are separated at 
last, with bruised and bloody faces, take a salt- 
water wash, and return to their dishes, only to 
meet the triumphant shout of the idle gazers, 
as they find them empty; some sly fellow 
having stolen their allowance, while they were 
too busy fighting to care for them. 

a Good enough for them," resounds from all 
sides of the ship, as the poor fellows make 
their exit with empty plates. 

The hours of the afternoon are spent in a 
manner similar to those of earlier day, with 
the exception of more sleep. We have work, 
study, conversation, quarrel, and fighting. Sup- 
per is served at sunset, after which comes 
the best part of the day, made lively by con- 
certs of vocal and instrumental music, pub- 
lic recitations and speeches, entertainments 



64 CHARACTER OF THE MATE. 

of jokes, narratives, strange delineations of 
strange events, and sometimes a hornpipe. 

As it grows dark, one and another select a 
"soft place" on the deck, spars, or roof, and 
prepare to sleep. The song and laugh grad- 
ually die away, and by eleven o'clock the ship 
is still, and nearly all her motley company 
asleep. A few sit watching the ocean and the 
sky all the long hours of the night, meditating 
upon the land and the fortunes they have left 
behind, or anticipating those in the future. 

Pay son, the chief mate, has been involved 
in some disturbance. He is a man of smooth 
demeanor and plausible speech, but, I verily 
believe, a thorough and merciless scoundrel. 
He is a very good friend of mine, however, 
notwithstanding this indulgence of expression. 
Being one of those who never go to sea with- 
out experiencing seasickness, I was able to 
administer materially to his comfort during 
our first rough days out, and he seems, at least, 
to have the merit of being grateful for favors 
received. 

Signs of rain are manifest. All hands busy 
in preparing to catch every drop ; hoping 



SUPPLY OF WATER. 65 

against hope, lest the refreshing draught be 
denied. 

10th. — At two o'clock this morning a heavy 
squall struck us, and the deck was instantly 
crowded with people, half dressed, eager to. 
catch the refreshing beverage in every thing 
that would receive it. In an hour or two we 
were the happy possessors of two hundred 
gallons of water — a week's short allowance. 

During the day spoke a Spanish brig, bound 
for Brazil. Only eight casks of water on 
board, and, of course, none to spare. Crossed 
the line in the night. Prince Paul seems very 
ill ; is not expected to live. 



CHAPTER IV. 

PERSONIFICATION OF NEPTUNE. — EFFORTS TO OBTAIN 
WATER. — JOY ON SEEING LAND. — APPEARANCE OF 
THE NATIVES. — CATAMARANS, ETC. 

11th. — Calm and hot. Towards evening old 
Neptune came on board, over the bows, after 
the coarse old fashion, having pretended to 
hail the ship from afar. This was done by 
English Charley, one of the crew, personifying 
his majesty, by fantastically disguising himself 
with oakum, and various singular devices. 
This done, he and his train of sea gods forth- 
with proceeded to administer to the passen- 
gers the appropriate rites of naturalization as 
new subjects of his watery realm. 

I was sitting on the quarter deck, talking 
with the ladies, when these divinities made 
their appearance. It was the mate's watch, 
and a good opportunity, as they thought, to 
carry out their amusement. 

The captain, or, indeed, any decent officer, 

(66) 



CEREMONY OF SHAVING. 67 

would have put an end to it at once ; for it is, 
in fact, but an obsolete relic of nautical rude- 
ness, never practiced except on whaling ves- 
sels, those disorderly houses of the ocean, or 
on ships as lawless and ungoverned as our 
own. Payson, from his station on the quarter 
deck, kept close watch, permitting them to 
seize only those who were specially obnoxious, 
or those to whom he was personally unfriendly 
or indifferent. 

That none might escape, however, they 
sprinkled a plentiful shower of salt water over 
every body on deck, and between decks. The 
unhappy victims of the special operation were 
subject to a more fearful ordeal, being placed 
over a tub of water, held firmly down, while a 
barber-ous operator rubbed tar on their cheeks 
with a stick, and scraped them with another. 

This tonsure accomplished, the ceremony 
was concluded by upsetting a bucket of sea 
water on their heads, and setting them at 
liberty. Some obstinate recusants saved them- 
selves by drawing knives or pistols. 

One somewhat contumacious fellow was 
shaved three times over ; at the last escaping 



G8 PRACTICAL JOKE. 

to flee toward the cabin, crying a murder," at 
the top of his voice. As he was descending 
the stairs, a bucket of salt water was thrown 
upon his head, mostly received, however, into 
the face of the captain, who happened to open 
the door of his room at that moment, for the 
purpose of ascertaining the cause of the tu- 
mult. Of course his anger w T as aroused, and 
returning for his pistols, he threatened to fire 
into the crowd, but finally contented himself 
with ordering off old Neptune, who immedi- 
ately obeyed, and thus ended the affair. 

The business of practical joking is quite 
briskly followed up in this ship. One which we 
infer to be a favorite, from its frequency, is to 
tie a stout ropeyarn to the feet of some poor 
fellow asleep on deck, while the other end is 
carried into the rigging above, continually ele- 
vating, slowly and cautiously, till the shoulders 
only touch the deck. Sleep being impossible 
in such a situation, and the circumstances 
tending to kindle the fires of passion, there are 
usually various contortions, and a burst of pro- 
fanity at once terrible and amusing. Some 
lithe, active ones contrive to free themselves ; 



A PRIZE. 69 

but almost all have to strive in utter helpless- 
ness until they are exhausted, and some tardy 
but professedly indignant and sympathizing 
friend comes to the rescue. 

Another delicate operation is to tickle the 
faces of sleepers with a feather suspended from 
a string, while the unconscious object furnishes 
the amusement, by his unsuccessful attempts 
to brush away the supposed creeping thing. 
It speaks but poorly for our company, when 
delight in the misery of others is so manifest. 

A more amusing spectacle, I venture to say, 
was never looked upon than we presented a 
short time since. A barrel of apples were 
shipped at New York, but were left in the 
damp air of the hold, where they had been 
constantly decaying, till the whole was re- 
solved into jelly, as it were, with only here 
and there a fragment remaining sound. This 
barrel was brought on deck, and its contents 
poured into a heap, for the benefit of all whom 
it might concern. Some twenty men, famish- 
ing for any thing of a kindred nature to fruit, 
instantly threw themselves headlong upon the 
prize, seeking, with astonishing eagerness, their 



70 SABBATH. 

portion of the inviting pile. I must confess 
myself as frantic as any body, but instead of 
trying to dive down through the living mass, 
I thrust myself under their legs, feeling my 
way along, and disregarding all manner of 
knocks and blows. 

By this cunning operation in the substra- 
tum I quietly selected one apple, and then 
another, thrusting each within my shirt bosom, 
until I had gathered more than a dozen, and 
was obliged, from sheer exhaustion, to make 
my way out, perfectly covered from forehead 
to chin, and from chin to lowest extremities, 
with rotten apple, yet more than repaid, as I 
thought, for all the trouble and filth, were they 
ten times as much. 

The apples, half crushed and decayed as 
they were, were as welcome u - as apples of gold 
in pictures of silver ; " and strange as it may 
seem, were unspeakably delicious to the taste. 

13 th. — Yesterday, the Sabbath, was com- 
menced by the mate prostrating one of the 
sailors, and leaving him bleeding and senseless 
upon the deck. How far such a spirit from 



LIBERALITY OF A PASSENGER. 71 

the design of the seventh day ! — a day richer 
in sacred association than any other that ever 
dawned upon the human race. 

In the morning, with a perfect calm, a party 
of eight, consisting of passengers 'and sailors, 
started in the small boat for a ship four miles 
distant, with the hope of obtaining some water. 

They returned with the report that three 
hundred gallons might be had, also some wine, 
at very low rates, but insisted upon stipulating 
that they alone should return for it, thus indi- 
cating some speculative scheme in our necessi- 
ties. 

Upon this, M. Saintpris, one of the French 
passengers, offered to purchase two or three 
casks upon his own responsibility, and distrib- 
ute it among those on board at cost. Speedy 
assent being given to this, he joined the boat's 
crew in their return. 

Marked indications of a storm appearing late 
in the afternoon, and the boat not having 
returned, fears began to be entertained for 
their safety, which caused the chief mate to 
man the other boat, and go to their assistance. 

Little benefit, however, as it proved. It was 



72 LOSS OF WINE. 

long before either boat returned, and then, 
amid great darkness, with the wind blowing 
fearfully, and the crew in both boats stupefied 
with strong drink. Two whole casks of wine 
were lost, and only through much difficulty 
and exertion the third was saved, and the men 
rescued from their perilous situation. The 
wine was sold to-day by Saintpris, according to 
his promise, at one dollar a gallon, being the 
original cost to him. * 

The passengers are threatening to make 
trouble for the captain whenever we get into 
port, in revenge for his misdemeanors. Prince 
Paul, however, who has recovered from his 
sickness, and engaged in his wonted manner, 
has influenced the leaders to desist in such a 
movement, by promising a cask of wine — a 
powerful inducement to them. 

We have had another most welcome shower 
of rain — a matter of great rejoicing, as one 
would conclude, to see the women and chil- 
dren with cups, teapots, pans, pails, tubs, and 
indeed every imaginable receptacle, eager to 
catch the descending drops. A quart of water 
is a small allowance, in this latitude, for one 



SHIP SPOKEN. 73 

day, and our supply at this rate is fearfully 
short. 

16th, — We have made another acquisition, 
acting under the second article of our unwrit- 
ten code, viz., a case of codfish and a ham. "We 
unobtrusively drew them from the lower hold, 
which is opened twice a week for the purpose 
of getting stores, and placed them in a dark 
corner of our sanctum, whither none are per- 
mitted to enter, save our own favored group. 
Here we have enjoyed many a delicate morsel 
of codfish and ham, both of which we have 
eaten raw. 

Have spoken ship Duncan Hoyle, from 
Greenock to Australia. How welcome the 
sound of these human voices on this wide 
waste of waters ! So much jarring and wran- 
gling, however, within our own limits, an ina- 
bility to articulate sounds would sometime?* 
seem almost a mercy. 

The captain has threatened to kill any one 
who shall intimate an intention of taking pro* 
ceedings against him in port for his ill doing. 

It is a matter worthy of record, we have had 
7 



74 A SINGULAR CHARACTER. 

no fight during the day, — nothing but a scold- 
ing match between Prince Paul and Terence 
McManus, an impetuous young Celt, who man- 
ifests a purely Irish spirit of independence, 
advocating strongly every thing opposed to 
aristocracy, or kindred to it. 

He is in almost daily dispute with the Eng- 
lishmen. The summit of his aspirations seems 
to be to marshal a company against the cap- 
tain or some of his officers ; but his noisy rest- 
lessness and inconsistent conduct, while they 
furnish considerable amusement, and no little 
annoyance, are yet the source of very little 
alarm. The following poetical description is 
suggested as an epitome of his character : — 

" Each hour a different face he wears ; 
Now in fury, now in tears, 

Now laughing, anon in sorrow ; 
A while commanding, then obeying ; 
Crying for liberty to-day, 
Calling for power to-morrow." 

But, evidently, he has a mission, and we 
have all agreed he was macte expressly for the 
leader of an Irish rebellion ; and consequently 



ILL FEELINGS. 75 

we have elaborate schemes in contemplation 
for sending him thither as a pioneer hero in 
the cause. 

17th. — 111 humor sometimes seems a certain 
result of atmospheric conditions. A peculiarly 
oppressive and gloomy atmosphere through the 
day has soured every temper on board ; captain, 
officers, seamen, passengers, and all appeared to 
be in perfect sympathy with the misanthropic 
bard, whose productions were of no great 
weight, but perhaps all we might expect from 
one so much out of humor with himself and all 
mankind. 

" Fret away, scold away ; 
Time is going fast ; 
Every day is one the less, 
Scold on till the last." 

Nothing suited any body, unless, indeed, Mrs. 
Egan was satisfied, as in truth she seemed to 
be, by wreaking her vengeance upon poor 
John Newman, the little boasting Englishman. 

He had accused her of stealing water from 
him — no light charge when we are actually suf- 
fering from the want of it. This afternoon, as 



76 A SQUABBLE. 

a knot of us were near the hatchway, Newman, 
all unconscious of his fate, came deliberately 
up the small ladder. As he stepped on deck, 
Mrs. E., a stout Irishwoman, with strong right 
arm, and fearless, violent temper, pounced 
angrily upon him, jerked him a step forward 
by the collar, planted him in the midst of the 
astounded spectators, forthwith instituting the 
reproachful inquiry, " Stole wather from ye, ye 
miserable cratur, hey ? " — at the same time giv- 
ing him two sharp blows with her hand, on 
either side the head. She gave him no time 
to recover, but immediately administered, as 
one of our clerks said, "Ditto, ditto, a size 
larger," until the poor fellow had endured hard 
treatment sufficient to shatter his small brains 
into still more hopelessly small particles. 

For a time he seemed inclined to return the 
blows ; but a spectator, scarcely able to speak 
for his risible emotion, called out> "Strike a 
woman, will you, you scoundrel ! " 

This deterred him from the attempt, and led 
him to seek his escape from the infuriated 
dame ; but her wrath not being fully spent, she 
refused to let him go. When he was permitted 



A CONCERT. 77 

to retire at last, three hearty cheers testified 
the public appreciation of the effort to main- 
tain the inviolability of female reputation, and 
also the first article of our admirable code. 

The skies and tempers cleared up togeth- 
er towards evening, and after supper we had 
a pleasant concert, chiefly of instrumental 
music. 

Madam Saintpris, the wife of the French law- 
yer, who so generously procured us wine, is an 
accomplished singer, having even appeared 
with credit at the opera. Several times before 
she has favored us with solos, which certainly 
seemed very brilliant to us, and undoubtedly 
were so. 

It is with some measure of appreciation we 
regard the saying of him who avowed that 
"music hath charms to rend a rock." What 
shall we say then of some of our crew, whose 
hearts seem utterly impervious to these influ- 
ences ? 

20th. — We are really in actual suffering. 
We must inevitably have sickness on board 
unless we speedily communicate with some 

7* 



78 INDIGNATION MEETING. 

friendly vessel or with the shore. Claret has 
been distributed among us by the supercargo, 
two quarts of which we may have at one dollar 
a bottle. 

The passengers have been expressing their 
opinion of the captain's conduct quite freely 
to-day, even on that ship-master's sanctum, the 
quarter deck. Becoming somewhat acquainted 
with the nature of the remarks, he ordered 
them from the deck ; but all in vain he will try 
to silence these abused and starving men. He 
may be thankful we do not rise and take the 
vessel into our own hands. We can count 
enough sufficiently skilled in navigation to 
take charge of things, even if every one of the 
present crew were removed. 

Cheese and crackers, and one quart of water 
a clay, is poor cheer after the payments we 
have made, and the promises we have received ; 
but what is worse, we are told that a pint only 
will soon be our portion. What we do have is 
bad, thick, and slimy • but poor as it is, we shall 
be glad to get such soon. 

23d. — Fair breeze, carrying us rapidly to- 



PURIFYING THE WATER. 79 

wards the coast of Brazil " Sail ho ! " electri- 
fied us all, and we anticipated a most seasona- 
ble relief. The ship passed quite near us, but 
our diabolical captain remained obstinately in 
his cabin, until she was passed, chuckling to 
himself, probably, at our disappointment, unless 
he was spirtt-ually unconscious. 

I have conceived some trifling methods to 
alleviate a little of the discomfort around me, 
aside from general helpfulness and hopefulness. 
Having trained myself to drink but little, — no 
very difficult matter, — I am able to lay by a 
great part of my allowance. This I place in 
bottles, which are resting quietly under my 
mattress. Into each, as I fill it, I drop two or 
three nails, or a bit of iron, which seems to 
prove a wholesome correction to the turbid 
mass. From this store I can dispense, quite 
frequently, a welcome draught, and have there- 
by become no small favorite, especially with 
our fat friend, Mrs. Egan, who is enormously 
and incessantly thirsty. 

In default of a better antiscorbutic, I have 
likewise contrived, by bottling up coffee 
grounds and boiled tea leaves, to produce a 



80 A PRACTICAL JOKE. 

remarkably clear and sharp vinegar, which is 
keenly relished as a condiment. 

25th. — No land yet. All are anxiously 
watching for it, as our condition is worse daily. 
Cooked food is but an occasional rarity, and 
the water is poor enough. Some of us have 
prepared dried apples, and water caught on 
deck, producing a miserable, slimy composition, 
forbidding to both sight and taste under ordi- 
nary circumstances, but received with great 
avidity by many now. 

Our comfortless and dangerous situation has 
not destroyed all our jocularity yet. . My ro- 
guish companion, Harry Yates, persuaded old 
man Perrin, as we call him, an honest, simple- 
hearted countryman, that dried apples, cooked 
in salt water, were exceedingly promotive of 
health, especially at sea. 

He then charitably volunteered to prepare 
it for him, and soon had in readiness a nau- 
seous dose, which he administered to his unsus- 
pecting victim, who swallowed no small quan- 
tities before he was undeceived, while we were 
base enough to consider it a funny operation. 



LAND SEEN. 81 

27th. — Forty-eight days out. At two this 
morning, a German boy, who happened to be 
alone on the bow, saw a low white streak at 
no very great distance before him. A second 
look sufficed to confirm his suspicions, and the 
shout of a Land ho ! " resounded through the 
vessel. Instantaneously the deck was alive 
with eager gazers at the coast, which, it after- 
wards appeared, was between Pernambuco and 
Bahia. 

It was scarcely a mile from us, and the ves- 
sel was proceeding rapidly in the same direc- 
tion. 

At this moment the captain appeared, and 
gave orders' that the course of the ship be 
turned as quickly as possible. This quieted 
the consternation of some of the passengers 
who were sure of a shipwreck, but scarcely 
served to cool in any degree the ardor of that 
tumultuous delight which the welcome sight 
of land produced in many a heart. 

Soon we were sailing through water of a 
yellowish color, which proved to be the mouth 
of the Eiver San Francisco. We filled our 
casks, and felt an unspeakable relief in having 



82 NATIVE BOATS. 

something to quench our burning thirst. We 
keep near as possible to the coast, and our vis- 
ion, wearied with the monotonous ocean view, 
finds a pleasing change in the blue mountain 
ranges in the distance, and the rich green 
banks that skirt the shore. 

Poets may sit down in their quiet homes, 
and write at their ease of the sublimity and 
grandeur of * Old Ocean," and that it does pre- 
sent these aspects I do not deny ; but let them 
float upon its wide waste a few months, and 
that in a miserable bark like ours, and I ven- 
ture to say their romance would give way 
before the superior charms of a " cottage in a 
shady grove," where life and nature are quiet 
and peaceful, unmingled with the terrors of the 
briny element. 

Soon after we came within sight of land, we 
discovered something floating in the distance, 
but were unable to make out what they were. 

On approaching nearer, however, we found 
them to be the " catamarans " of the coast na- 
tives, consisting of two logs of fifteen or twenty 
feet in length, and perhaps two in breadth, 
lashed together with hide or bark, and crossed 



HABITS OF THE NATIVES. 83 

in the middle by bars of wood sustaining a 
basket, in which is kept fishing tackle, bait, 
and probably the family estate, if they have 
any. On each of these boats were two natives 
at least, and sometimes whole families, includ- 
ing men, women, and children. With these 
rude constructions they often go considerable 
distances to sea, especially during the pleasant 
months, floating out with the tide, and paddling 
about to meet ships, apparently from mere 
curiosity, having nothing to sell. 

Some of our company amused themselves 
by throwing various things overboard, for the 
purpose of seeing the Indians dive for them 
They had very little clothing, none of them, 
probably, ever wearing more than the a girdle 
about the loins." 

They live at their ease, find superabundant 
fruits on shore, catch fish when they desire, 
and with this simple and plenteous bill of fare, 
and none for clothing, lodging, or other extras, 
they live a life free from anxiety and care. 

This evening some alarm was again excited 
by the captain saying that the ship was going 
ashore in spite of all he could do to the con- 



84 THE SHIP IN DANGER. 

trary. The chief mate, in a rage, stepped in 
front of his commander, telling him, if it was 
his intention to run them ashore, to " say so," 
and he would prepare for it. No notice was 
taken of this gross act of insubordination, and 
the ship was soon righted. Many of us cannot 
avoid the suspicion that the captain has more 
than once deliberately attempted to wreck the 
ship. 



CHAPTER V. 

LANDING AT BAHIA. — VISIT OF THE CUSTOM-HOUSE 
OFFICER. — DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. — VISIT INTO 
THE COUNTRY. — ENGLISH CHAPEL. — MARKET- 
PLACES. 

<■ 

31st — At noon to-day, we came in sight of 
the lighthouse at the entrance of the Bay of 
All Saints. Nothing could exceed the joy of 
the passengers upon finding themselves so near 
a port. The whole vessel was in commotion, 
hearty cheers ascending from different compa- 
nies, and every one almost wild with pleasura- 
ble excitement. The scenery on the coast 
seemed rather rugged at first, but as we came 
nearer, it grew picturesque and romantic in 
the extreme. Hills and valleys, shaded with 
tropical foliage, and feathered with cocoa-nut 
and palm, refreshed our sight, while here and 
there we could discover a cottage embowered 
in trees, whose quiet inmates we imagined a 

8 (85) 



86 ARRIVAL AT THE PORT OF BAHIA. 

happy people while dwelling securely under 
their own vines and fig trees. 

At 3, P. M., we doubled the cape, and 
glided into full view of the old Brazilian city 
of San Salvador, now called Bahia, which lay 
before us, a u thing of beauty," to our longing 
eyes. It is built on rising ground, commencing 
with the business streets near the shore, and 
extending in rows of dwellings, gardens, groves, 
and shrubbery, to the bold brows of the bluffs 
above, upon whose summits we could see con- 
vents and cathedrals, hotels and large mansions 
of more modern style. 

We dropped anchor at 4 o'clock, at a point 
in front of the city, commanding a full view of 
it, also of the bay, but were not permitted to 
land, by the custom-house officer who came on 
board, until morning. 

As the shades of evening drew about us, and 
the solemn music of the convent bells floated 
out to us over the water, we settled into a calm 
and quiet mood, feeling more at peace with 
the world, and with each other, than for a long 
time before. 

We have now accomplished one third of our 



POSITION OF THE SHIP. 87 

long voyage, having reached Bahia, counted 
from fifteen to twenty-five days' sail from New 
York, in little less than the sixty days in which it 
was pretended the whole w r ould be completed. 
We have, however, endured so much wretched- 
ness, that without adverting to this delay, we 
find abundant cause for gratitude and delight 
that we are in port at all. 

It is only through divine interposition that 
we have been repeatedly saved from death by 
shipwreck and thirst. Our provisions, too, have 
been fast wasting, and our goods buried in the 
deep long ago; lightening the ill-stowed and 
poorly-ballasted ship, so much and so unevenly 
that we have come into port at Bahia down 
by the stern, in such a manner that we can dip 
our handkerchiefs into the water from over the 
larboard rail. 

For a week or two it has been impossible 
to walk, about the deck when wet at all, such 
was its angle of inclination ; thus making our 
situation one of extreme danger, had we been 
caught in a heavy blow. Columbus and his 
crew scarcely felt more joy at the sight of 
land, than we, poor fellows, at beholding these 
cliffs before us. 



88 THE CREW ASHORE. 

Friday, April 1st. — The captain found him- 
self in trouble at once, at the custom house, 
for having too many passengers on his list, 
and only escaped penalty by the help of Con- 
sul Gilman. Some one must have informed 
this officer of the suspicions and charges pre- 
ferred against the chief mate, for this morning 
he gave him liberty to leave the vessel, but 
none to come back. 

About nine, the announcement was made 
by the consul that we might go on shore, and 
accordingly preparations were made to that 
effect. 

Upon landing we found a few white men ; 
some English and French, who solicited the 
honor of our patronage for different hotels; 
but so great was our delight at treading a 
portion of this mundane earth, that the blue 
sky above, and the green carpet underneath, 
seemed well nigh sufficient for man's wants. 

Almost all in the streets, however, were ne- 
groes ; many of them laden with flowers and 
fruits of the choicest varieties, indescribably 
tempting to us, after our long confinement to 
salt and miserable food. 



AN EXCELLENT DINNER. 89 

We spent the morning in rambling about 
the city, with no special object but to see 
whatever was to be seen. Very little break- 
fast was eaten on board ship, the proximity of 
the shore destroying what little appetite re- 
mained for wormy bread and mahogany beef. 
The wants of the "inner man" began to 
be somewhat clamorous, as my comrade and 
myself neared a respectable-looking, neatly- 
arranged French restaurant. " Come, Harry," 
said I, * we'll have one good dinner if it takes 
all we've got." "We entered, and, for the first 
time after leaving New York, enjoyed a well- 
cooked and savory meal. 

The table was well set and the bill of fare 
excellent, — -including soup, beef, poultry, sweet 
potatoes, yams, onions, okra, very good French 
rolls, claret, and a very fair native wine. 

There was also a great variety of fruit for 
dessert, among which was the blood-red, seed- 
less orange, which I tasted for the first time, 
and compared with which the best oranges in 
our northern cities are mere cider apples. 

The conclusion of the matter was a bill of 
three milreas, or nearly two dollars for both, 
8* 



90 BAY OF ALL SAINTS. 

which we paid without grumbling, and resumed 
our stroll 

The Bay of All Saints is one of the noblest 
harbors in the world ; a magnificent sheet of 
water of an irregular circle, forty miles in 
length, and nearly the same in width, affording 
sheltered anchorage sufficient, it would almost 
seem, for all the ships in the world. It com- 
municates with the sea by a narrow passage, 
two miles in length, scarcely one in width, 
through which we passed. 

Bahia is a name given to a maritime prov- 
ince of Brazil, on the eastern coast, extending 
from about 9° to 15° 45' south latitude. The 
estimate of its area varies with different indi- 
viduals, some placing it at fifty-four thousand 
square miles, and others at ninety-seven thou- 
sand ; the latter, however, mostly credited. 

Statements with regard to population also 
differ ; probably amounts to about seven hun- 
dred thousand. Bays and inlets abound along 
the coast, among the most celebrated of which 
is All-Saints Bay. Numerous rivers traverse 
the province; the Rio San Francisco, the 



STAPLE PRODUCTS. 91 

largest, or one of the largest, of the Brazilian 
rivers, flowing along its north-west frontier. 

The cultivation of tobacco is peculiar to the 
province, and its produce much sought after, 
not only for the market of Portugal, but also 
for Spain and the whole of Barbary. 

The soil is also admirably adapted to the 
cultivation of the sugar cane ; and the sugar 
of this province is considered of superior qual- 
ity — a circumstance finding sufficient proof 
in the fact that Bahia alone exports more of 
this article than all the rest of Brazil. 

An annual increase of the cotton growth 
shows Bahia to be fast becoming a formidable 
rival to Pernambuco. Kice of a fine quality 
is among her productions, and coffee, much 
excelled, however, by that of Eio de Janeiro. 

This province was one of the first peopled 
by Europeans, and it is also one of those, it is 
said, from which they have most effectually 
removed all traces of the original inhab- 
itants. 

Bahia, or San Salvador, where we now are, 
is the capital of the above province, situated 
immediately within Cape St. Antonio, which 



92 POPULATION. 

forms the right or east side of this noble Bay 
of All Saints. 

It was founded about 1549 by Thomas de 
Souza, first captain-general of Brazil, and was 
until 1763 the capital of the colony. Since 
that period Bio has been acknowledged as the 
capital. 

It is one of the largest and most important 
cities of South America, though inferior to its 
rival in population and commercial importance. 

Its population is estimated from 120,000 
to 160,000, of which a third tire supposed to 
be whites, the same number mulattoes, and 
the remainder blacks. 

It is built partly along the ridge, and partly 
on. the declivity of a very high and steep hill, 
fronting the entrance of the bay ; and in the 
number and beauty of its public buildings, 
ranks among the first cities of Brazil. 

Among the most noticeable is the cathedral, 
once the church of the Jesuits, dedicated to 
San Salvador, and considered the handsomest 
ecclesiastical building in the country. It is 
built of European marble ; its interior richly 
decorated, containing two portraits — one of 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 93 

Ignatius Loyola and San Francois Xavier — 
which are regarded as rare specimens of art. 

The theater is built upon a rock, more than 
a thousand feet above the level of the sea; 
but as the slope northward, toward the sub- 
urbs, is quite gradual, and a greater part of 
those who patronize the theater come from 
thence, the inconvenience is not great. In- 
deed, most of the largest and finest buildings 
are upon high points quite difficult of access. 

In the lower part of the town is the Ex- 
change, a massive building of modern date, 
built in a peculiar style, an attempted imita- 
tion of the Grecian. The houses are mostly 
built of stone, and contrary to the usual prac- 
tice in South America, many consist of three, 
four, and even five stories. The principal 
street is the Praya, in which is situated the 
Church of the Conception, remarkable on ac- 
count of the stones which compose its struc- 
ture having been prepared and numbered in 
Europe, and brought in two frigates ; so that 
upon their arrival they had merely to be 
arranged in the order previously allotted to 
them. 



94 MODES OF TRAVELING. 

A public library is shown of some sixty 
thousand or seventy thousand volumes, among 
which are a few ancient Portuguese works, 
and some manuscripts ; but the greater por- 
tion are in French. 

As a city, however, it can boast of very few 
institutions devoted to intellectual culture, and 
these are under the control of bigoted eccle- 
siastics, who care little, and do less, for the 
advancement of educational systems. 

Bahia is a place long celebrated for its ship 
building. As late as 1824, some of the finest 
ships that graced the seas were built at this 
port. 

The modes of traveling strike one as novel 
and peculiar, the vehicle, being a sort of palan- 
quin, supported by negroes, who make a prac- 
tice of clustering about the corners of the 
streets, with the hope of having their services 
called in requisition in that direction. In car- 
rying people from one part of the city to 
another, the " silla " is in general use ; which is 
nothing more than a stout wooden chair, 
strapped to the shoulders of a man, in which 
one seats himself, and is transported whither- 



OPPORTUNE KINDNESS. 95 

soever he will, provided suitable inducements 
are offered. 

Weary of wandering when night began to 
think of unfolding her mantle, and feeling 
some solicitude as to a resting place for the 
hours of darkness, I turned boldly to the 
best hotel in the city, where I found several 
of the ship's company, and among them Mr. 
Payson. While lounging about in a hesitating 
manner, he asked what lodgings I had secured, 
and upon my replying, " none," he invited me 
to remain, and he would be responsible for my 
bills. I was truly grateful, and thanked him 
most sincerely, thinking it a rich reward for 
small acts of kindness done to a sick ship's 
officer. 

Verily, — 

" A little word mildly spoken, 
A little deed kindly done," 

insures its own rich fund of blessing. 

April 7th. — Some of our company engaged 
a boarding place in the country for the time 
of our stay in port, necessarily having an eye 
to economy, -and also for the purpose of avoid- 
ing the unhealthy exposures of the city. 



96 ELEGANT COUNTRY SEATS. 

Comfortably settled in their new abode, our 
little company were invited to visit them. 
Mules are often used in traveling, especially by 
the wealthier classes, who have heavy carriages 
drawn by six or eight of these animals ; but 
preferring a cheaper and less showy equipage, 
we availed ourselves of our own powers of 
locomotion by starting on foot. 

We left the city by the western road, and 
followed the shores of the bay for a mile, en- 
joying the surf, and the vast cabinet of shells, 
arranged after Nature's own model. We 
passed the residences of many of the wealthy 
people of the city, who seemed to be living in 
luxurious splendor in their fashionable retire- 
ment. 

Many of the finest were in process of reno- 
vation, their mosaic walks of shell work being 
laid in cement ; and marble vases, variegated 
stone flower pots, statuary, &c, being refitted 
or replaced by new ; which, with correspond- 
ing interior decorations, would make palaces 
worthy of kings. 

We journeyed at leisure over gently undu- 
lating hills, past fields of sugar cane, and shady 



BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 97 

groves of plantain and cocoa nnt ; fairly rev- 
eling in the heavy perfume from fruit and 
flowers, wafted to us on the morning breeze 
from over the bay. 

Suddenly emerging from a thicket, we came 
in full view of a ridge, upon whose summit 
stood a long row of one-story, white buildings, 
the country seat of our fellow-voyagers. Their 
special home was a neat, airy cottage, snugly 
planted in a grove of orange and lemon trees. 

The scene was one of great magnificence. 
The front view afforded a near glance of the 
city ; of rich and smiling valleys ; while in the 
further distance was the vast expanse of the 
beautiful bay. 

The slope in the rear was laid out in fine 
gardens, stretching down to the valley, inter- 
sected by winding paths, ornamented with 
shells and stones of various colors, inlaid with 
innumerable devices, and these still farther 
embellished with statuary, urns, and flower 
vases. Farther down were the little hamlets 
of the natives ; and here and there a fruit or- 
chard, cocoa grove, or vegetable garden. 

The little fleet of ships in port were motion- 



98 ENCOURAGEMENT TO AGRICULTURISTS. 

less, with furled sails, with the exception of 
one or two gliding on their course before a 
light breeze. 

Still discernible in the distance was the 
small steamer, that had left Bahia for the pur- 
pose of conveying to their chosen location a 
company of Massachusetts farmers, who have 
been induced to come to this country with 
their wives, children, flocks, herds, and imple- 
ments, with the professed object of introducing 
agricultural improvements. 

The Brazilian government, it seems, not only 
gives land, but money, to those who will enlist 
in this enterprise of native cultivation. 

This party, we are told, receive quite a hand- 
some salary, both men and women, the latter 
being requested to establish a dairy, if possible. 

Perhaps it was the knowledge of this dele- 
gation that suggested the idea to some of our 
number of abandoning the voyage to Austra- 
lia, and seeking employment in the diamond 
mines of Brazil. 

The insane project, however, proved a fail- 
ure, fortunately for them ; for, even supposing 
government would have permitted them to 



PLEASANT ENTERTAINMENT. 99 

enter those remote and guarded realms, and 
they had not perished in the vast wilderness 
on the way, there would only have remained 
the splendid contingency of freedom, a cheap 
suit of clothes, and a few dollars, if they should 
be successful in finding a stone of so many 
carats. 

But to return from this digression to the 
description of our visit ; we sat a long time in 
front, lost in the beauty of the glorious land- 
scape, before we were aroused by summons to 
partake of refreshments on the other side of 
the house. 

Eepairing to the spot, we found a table 
spread in the shade, decorated with flowers, 
and filled with oranges, cocoa nuts, guavas, 
dates, figs, bananas, mangoes, bread, water, 
wine, dried fruits, coffee, and cigars. 

Completely embowered in roses, oleanders, 
and geraniums ; shaded by the rich foliage of 
the tropical trees; waited on by a bevy of 
neatly-dressed brown girls, we sat long at the 
feast, as at one seldom to be enjoyed. After a 
short siesta of two hours, we awoke to take a 
stroll through the grounds. Our agreeable host, 



100 ATTENDING CHURCH. 

it appeared, had arranged a dance and picnic 
under the trees by moonlight. Guests from 
neighboring plantations began to arrive at 
nine, and at ten the musicians struck up 
a lively air, that set the pretty senoritas to 
dancing in earnest. The guitar seems to be 
their favorite instrument, and its low, sweet 
tones were particularly pleasing at this time. 

The faint light of morning was visible when 
the company dispersed ; and thus ended a day 
and night which many hardships and present 
pleasures conspired to render so full of pleas- 
ure, that then and now it were more like an 
enchanted dream than a thing of reality. 

11th. — Yesterday, some of us attended 
divine service for the first time since leaving 
New York. Wishing to make a respectable 
appearance, and having no other decent gar- 
ments, we arrayed ourselves in the heavy 
woolen suits in which we started from home 
in the middle of winter, but found our coats 
quite too cumbersome before we had proceed- 
ed far. 

Our way led us by the Park, situated on the 



POLICEMEN. 101 

blufi^ commanding a beautiful prospect of the 
bay and the business streets of the city. As 
we looked in, and saw the ground strewed with 
ripe oranges, seats arranged most invitingly 
under the trees, we felt inclined to take ad- 
vantage of our early start, in the quiet enjoy- 
ment of the scene. 

The day was oppressively hot, even for 
Bahia. We seated ourselves in as comfortable 
a posture as possible, divesting ourselves of 
hats, shoes, &c. ; but scarcely had we finished 
our arrangements, ere one of the numerous 
half soldier, half policemen, — who swarm 
about the city with hot-looking uniforms of 
black, red, and green, bearing sword and mus- 
ket, — presented himself, discharging a lot of 
Brazilian Portuguese, among which was dis- 
tinguishable, a Bay a ! lay a ! Vamos ! vamos I 
Malo ! malo ! " signifying, in general, that we 
were violating their laws, and must depart. 

Some were ready to go, and others, unwill- 
ing, pretended not to understand. 

" Bay a ! bay a ! Vamos ! " repeated the officer, 
pointing to the gate. Finding them still in- 
corrigible, he hailed a brother official, who 
9* 



102 VICTORIA SQUARE. 

came up in an ireful, threatening manner, 
inspiring the feeling that it were better to 
leave, since we could not afford to offer bribes, 
and the stern virtue of the policemen is blind 
and deaf to every thing else. 

From the Park, a handsome, straight street 
leads more than a mile back to Victoria Square. 
Both the street and the square are lined with 
fine houses, to which are attached large and 
magnificent gardens, belonging to English and 
foreign residents, of whom there are two hun- 
dred and more, mostly engaged in commercial 
houses and the shipping business. 

The English Chapel, newly erected by the 
British government, is a small, modest building, 
in the square, almost lost sight of in the dense 
foliage of the trees which surround it. We 
entered its courts gladly, and joined in the 
responses of the service with great satisfac- 
tion. Long deprivation prepared us to appre- 
ciate the sensible discourse of the clergyman — 
a man of middle size, with kindly expression, 
pleasing manners, who preached from the text, 
"And he did it not from the fear of God." 

K., a smart young fellow, whom we call 



YELLOW-FEVER DELUSION. 103 

the "ship's lawyer/' complained of his head 
on his way to the chapel. He continued to 
grow worse, and on our return to the hotel 
wished me to call a physician immediately, as 
he was quite confident he had the yellow 
fever, and should survive but a short time. 
Reason evidently was tottering, and I sought 
medical advice, but received only the informa- 
tion that it was a sunstroke, and by gratifying 
his whims he might soon be better. This 
made no difference with K., who surely thought 
it his last sickness. He gave me his watch, 
with the request that I should give it to his 
father whenever I should reach the United 
States, made disposition of his remaining ef- 
fects, and with a serious and resigned coun- 
tenance, said, " Now I am ready ; the fever 
will take me away soon." He retained his 
delusion for some time, constantly imploring to 
be carried to the hospital, that he might die. 

Such was his earnestness, we went through 
the usual forms of application, taking care, 
however, that the actual result should not be 
secured. This has proved a sad disappoint- 
ment to the sufferer, but we have thought it 



104 DAILY EMPLOYMENTS. 

best, and shall do all we can for his comfort 
ourselves. No improvement manifest to-day. 

14th. — We spend our days at Bahia, in 
rambling about ; sometimes along the bay to 
the westward ; sometimes over the north point 
of the harbor and up the sea coast, and again 
through the churches and public buildings of 
the city. 

In case we should feel disinclined to return 
at evening, we provide ourselves with lunch, 
expecting to find a luxurious dessert in the 
tropical fruits which we take from the ground 
as abundantly and innocently as we should 
walnuts and chestnuts in West Hartford woods ; 
while for lodging we seek entrance into some 
Indian hut. Usually, however, the hotel is 
the place of rendezvous for the night, where I 
sleep soundly on the floor, with two newspa- 
pers for my mattress, and lizards for my at- 
tendants. 

One who does not see the market place 
does not see the half of Bahia. A new and 
spacious edifice of stone is being erected for 
the accommodation of this portion of the public, 



THE MARKET PLACE. 105 

but it is little advanced ; and in the mean 
while the area of the square is thickly covered 
with wooden sheds, irregularly set, in which 
the venders appear — a numerous and motley 
company of negro slaves, free blacks, and na- 
tive Brazilians, of every shade of black and 
brown, offering every conceivable thing ; not 
only meats, but every variety of flowers, fruit, 
and vegetables; dry goods, groceries, hard- 
ware ; in short, every sort of commodity pro- 
curable in the city, except, perhaps, some fine 
cloths. We find inexhaustible amusement in 
examining the varieties of country produce ; 
watching the strings of mules and donkeys 
that bring it in ; having thus a fine oppor- 
tunity .to study the manners and national 
peculiarities of the people. 

Most of us young fellows have struck up a 
sort of trade acquaintance with one and an- 
other of the more comely brown girls at the 
fruit stands. They have acquired from cus- 
tomers a few English words, which they use 
promiscuously, spicing freely with a jovial 
hi'hi style of African laughter. As they per- 
ceive us coming, each jumps at her special 



106 FEMALE DRESS. 

customer, seizes him unceremoniously by the 
arm, jokes away her competitors; never releas- 
ing her hold until all her English and his 
Portuguese are exhausted, and a dump or two 
is invested in her special commodities. 

By far the most striking of the market 
women are the pure negroes, some of whom 
are native Africans, still bearing the charac- 
teristics of their tribe. 

The Brazilian negroes almost seem like 
caricatures of their brethren in the United 
States, so much more exuberant are they in 
spirits, and in extravagant and fantastic cos- 
tumes. 

For dress patterns, the ladies of the market 
usually select furniture calico, with large red 
and yellow figures ; adorn them with flounces, 
edgings of coarse lace a foot in width, or 
some of those styles of heavy ball or tassel 
fring-e which we use for curtains. 

The head dress is a gaudy Madras handker- 
chief, when the hair is not carded out and 
arranged with flowers. 

We have actually seen the last painful 
operation performed with leather and wooden 



A SABLE BEAUTY. 107 

cards, not unlike those used at home, instead 
of currycombs, on less sensitive animals. 

My own especial favorite and great admira- 
tion is a sable Amazon, weighing at least three 
hundred pounds — a fat and expansive crea- 
ture, almost as black and shiny as patent leather ; 
with a round face, almost as radiant, in spite 
of its color, as a full moon ; clear, white eyes, 
with large jetty pupils, that may have broken 
many an Ethiopian heart; a mouth filled with 
pearly teeth; and, withal, so invariably and 
joyously smiling, that she was positively de- 
lightful in conversation. 

She dresses in the hight of fashion — usu- 
ally in a dress of white, bordered with a heavy 
flounce, trimmed with gay flowers and vari- 
ously-colored ribbons, and an enormous calla 
and japonica in her hair. 

She sits upon her throne, evidently, with as 
much satisfaction as the proudest empress, in 
her coronet of jewels ; rejoicing in the gor- 
geous display of flowers and fruit around her ; 
receiving patronage from many merely for the 
sake of gazing at her gigantic ebony pro- 
portions. 



108 A COMPLIMENT. 

The inhabitants, whether Indians, negroes, or 
Europeans, have invariably treated us with ex- 
treme politeness and great hospitality. The 
policemen often hail us when returning to the 
city in the evening ; but a little explanation in 
English, ending with amigo, always suffices to 
give us undisturbed passage. 

We were soon recognized as law-abiding 
persons ; but it is true, if we did not fear their 
unscrupulous perquisitions of all sorts of bun- 
dles and parcels, we should carry more private 
stores of fruit with us than we shall now dare 
to do. 

Among the class of boatmen is John, a 
smart, good-natured negro, whom we have 
often employed, and whose heart we have 
occasionally rejoiced by giving him a dime in- 
stead of the usual fare — a dump, which is a 
copper coin, about the size of an English penny. 
His gratitude always finds expression in a form 
of acknowledgment learned of the English sail- 
ors, ignorant of its application, and therefore 
more sincere than complimentary, we think; 
viz., " You one fine d — d fool." So much for 
the tendency of human nature to acquire that 
which is evil. 



CHAPTER VI. 

EOMANCB OP A WALK IN THE TROPICAL REGION. — - 
DIFFICULTIES IN LEAVING PORT. — HISTORY OF BRA- 
ZIL. — NARROW ESCAPE FROM FIRE. 

The beauty and luxuriance of tropical vege- 
tation can scarcely be conceived by those ac- 
customed to the comparatively sterile regions 
of the temperate zone. The dense foliage of 
the trees, the almost impenetrable forests, are 
rather more agreeable in the prospect, however, 
than while testing their convenience by actual 
experiment. In order to give the reader a 
faint idea of these things, I sketch a descrip- 
tion of a walk, before proceeding to the next 
date on record, which my companion and my- 
self proposed, with the intention of making a 
circuit through the woods, ^coming out some 
distance inland, upon the shore of the bay. 
After leaving the marble-walled or iron-railed 
enclosures of the great suburban gardens, the 
country is, to a good extent, of apparently 
10 (109) 



110 A TROPICAL FOREST. 

primeval forest, altogether without fences, yet 
dotted here and there, at long intervals, with a 
sugar plantation, or Indian village, with the ac- 
companying orchards and gardens. Mere foot 
paths are winding about, not so wide or distinct 
as those which usually intersect the woods of 
New England, sometimes leading somewhere, but 
oftener nowhere. We started long before sun- 
rise, and plunged into the depths of the forest, 
pursuing our devious and intricate way through 
such paths as these, worn only by human feet. 
On and still on we went, looking with wonder 
at the enormous trees, from which drooped 
equally large vines, all of which were twined 
and intertwined with masses of flowers; re- 
galed at the same time with the sweet, melo- 
dious notes of innumerable birds, the better to 
represent which, were I a naturalist, and de- 
sirous of celebrity, I should probably define, 
with a list of certain unpronounceable names, 
that would look very scientific, to say the least, 
These heavy vines seemed to extend miles 
in succession, actually adorning whole forests 
with festoons of flowers ; realizing the most 
extravagant, pictures of romance, provided we 



DIFFICULT TRAVELING. Ill 

say nothing of the lizards, and chattering 
monkeys that glided and leaped about us. 

The air was thick with the almost suffocat- 
ing perfumes of flowers, and alive with the 
hum of numberless insects, so that, in the 
intoxication of our senses, we lost our way. 
Hoping to reach the bay at some familiar 
point, we went forward, pushing our way with 
difficulty through shrubs, vines, and broad 
leaves ; often obliged to make a road with our 
pocket knives ; our Yankee blood telling hand- 
somely in our favor the while. Finding it an 
utterly fruitless attempt to beat a path upon 
the ground, we walked, or rather scrambled,^ 
over a sort of a airy " course, formed by stems, 
vines, and flowers, coming nearer than ever 
before to the fanciful period of life — "a path 
with roses strewed." We at last succeeded in 
forcing our way down a steep hill, over half a 
mile of swamp, which stretched across the 
valley, and reached an open space on the 
opposite side. We regretted our hard-fought 
passage on one account, as it compelled us to 
drop many curious flowers, and rare specimens 
of vegetation, retaining only a few seeds, and 



112 RUINED MANSION. 

some pods of wild cotton, apparently of supe- 
rior quality. 

Feeling now quite at ease by a knowledge 
of our relation to the points of compass, we 
made a hearty meal of bread and dried fruit ; 
after which we enjoyed a most refreshing 
siesta under the shadow of the broad plantain. 

Awaked from this, we pursued our journey 
over the hill, coming quickly upon a deserted 
plantation, whose dilapidated walls spoke con- 
vincingly of the withering touch of Father 
Time. This we imagined to have been the 
residence of some wealthy family during the 
palmy days of San Salvador. Such, indeed, 
were the indications — as ruined statuary, mar- 
ble fountains, and bathing places : relics of 
elaborate carving and massive stone-work, were 
still visible. 

A few families of natives were living about, 
possibly the descendants of the former slaves 
of the establishment ; the proprietor having 
been compelled by misfortune, or political 
change, to flee from his charming home. 

These poor people, nevertheless, represented 
well the ancient hospitalities of the domain, 



TROUBLE ABOUT THE SHIP. 113 

treated us with even ceremonious politeness, 
and when we wished to depart, kindly showed 
us a path to the city, which we were glad to 
avail ourselves of, being weary with the day's 
adventure, though prosecuted in the midst of 
objects of singular beauty and attractiveness. 

We enjoyed keenly this delightful land, with 
scarcely a thought either for the past or the 
future^notwithstanding the web of troubles 
and fatalities woven about our a beautiful clip- 
per " were as tangled as ever, as will be seen 
by date of twenty-first April, twenty-one days 
after 1 our arrival at Bahia. 

No steps being taken to prepare for the con-^N 
tinuation of the voyage, and being generally 
agreed that it should not be broken up if possi- 
ble, a meeting of the passengers has been called, 
at which they considered the matter of using 
the Peytona as the private property of the 
passengers until our safe arrival in Australia, 
and full reimbursement of all expenses in- 
curred on the ship's account. A committee 
was appointed to represent the state of the 
ship to the consul, Mr. Gilman, who answered 
that his strict legal duty was to Send the 
10* 



114 THE CONSUL'S ADVICE. 

Peytona back to New York, for the violation of 
passenger laws, and irregular papers. This, they 
gave him to understand, was scarcely practica- 
ble, as they were fixed in their determination 
to proceed, though they should work the vessel 
themselves. Upon this the consul advised the 
captain to advertise for the requisite means, as 
this is the plea, which he accordingly did ; and 
some gentlemen were found who were dis- 
posed to negotiate in the matter, but found, on : 
inquiry, that no responsible owner appeared, 
which put an end to the plan at once. 

A second effort was made by the captain, in 
which he proposed to the passengers to raise 
the sum of fifteen hundred dollars, as the 
responsibility of getting out from port rested 
upon them ; but they only gave what Eev. Mr. 
Abbott says must be given to all street beg- 
gars— "frowns and flat denials." The money 
might as well be thrown into the sea. 

In this uncertain condition sickness has be- 
gun to manifest itself, which has finally as- 
sumed the fearful type of yellow fever, aided [ 
probably by the free Use of tropical fruits, and i 
manner of living. 



YELLOW FEVER. 115 

Park, a stalwart man, forty years of age, has 
died on board. He lay neglected upon the 
deck nearly a week previous to his death, and 
although at the time fifty persons were within 
twenty yards of him, no one knew when the 
a King of Terrors " came. Such is the apathy 
and indifference to each other's welfare into 
which the passengers have fallen, though, doubt- 
less, fear of infection influenced more or less. 

Fowler, the blaspheming Yermonter, who 
prayed so vehemently in our first gale, was 
taken the same evening, and died soon after. 
A Polish count, one of our foreign shipmates, 
has also fallen a victim. 

With such danger in our midst, the ship's 
debt daily increasing, and the chances of leav- 
ing port diminishing in the same ratio, a last 
and more energetic effort has been made to 
raise the money ; for bills must be paid, as the 
authorities are strict in preventing the depart- 
ure of any vessel in debt. A statement of 
grievances was made, concluding with a re- 
quest that the ship might be fitted out and 
sent to sea, and the same put into the hands of 
the consul. He seemed anxious to aid us, but 



116 AT SEA AGAIN. 

could do nothing till bills were met. Accord- 
ingly, fifteen hundred dollars were obtained in 
contributions of from five to two hundred dol- 
lars, some having sold their watches and other 
valuables for the purpose of obtaining the 
desired amount, and the whole appropriated 
by Mr. Gilman to the cancellation of the ship's f 
demands. This has so incensed the captain il 
that he came on board threatening never to f 
leave port unless three thousand dollars were 
raised and placed at his own disposal. 

No notice was taken of his senseless threats, 
but of course it causes detention, and many of f 
us are beginning to feel that our present mode t( 
of life is not altogether the thing, however P 
pleasant it may be. 

i 
29th. — After various hinderances we are | 

once more at sea, having been on board some | 

time, with the daily hope and expectation of! 

leaving port. We weighed anchor in the | 

morning, but the afternoon only afforded usr 

sufficient breeze to make any progress. For a f 

time matters appeared dubious indeed. As m 

British sloop of war, with her schooner consort, ! J 



A HAPPY RIDDANCE. 117 

was seeking to intercept our course, for the 
obvious reason that we had a deserter from 
each. Upon nearing us they signified their 
desire to search the ship, and were given full 
permission by our commander, who gravely 
asserted no such men were on board, though 
at the very hour he knew perfectly well -the 
place of their secretion. After some little 
hesitation they turned their course, leaving us 
to pursue our quiet way. And now that we 
are fairly out, and are rid of some of our worst 
characters, we have hopes of completing our 
voyage in comparative comfort. Eleven of 
our original company are left behind, among 
whom are the chief mate, our thievish steward, 
Prince Paul, and several others, who await a 
fairer opportunity of prosecuting their voyage. 

Grant is our first mate, and " Big George," 
our first volunteer, the second. 

We have water, and a considerable stock of 
fresh provisions, which the' consul and com- 
mittee together put on board, and made the 
captain acknowledge as bought for the vessel, 
before they were paid for. Many, like myself, 
have private stores of fruit, and such miscel- 



118 VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. 

laneous articles as our means would enable us 
to procure at Bahia. 

30th. — Kough weather. The captain is evi- 
dently trying to make himself agreeable; in- 
stituting inquiries in different parts of the ship 
whether all are comfortable ; if any thing is want- 
ing, or wrong ; but we, who have endured so much 
in the past, are little inclined to cordiality. 

A magazine has been discovered below, well 
stored with fire-arms and various sorts of am- 
munition ; knowledge of which has called out 
a vigilance committee, composed of the same 
men who have hitherto been the most promi- 
nent in all organized action, and are supported 
by the most intelligent and reliable of the pas- 
sengers. Some one or more of these are on 
deck, night and day, watching the condition 
and progress of things in general, and ready 
to rally assistance at once, in case of an out- 
break. In order to prevent theft, it has like- 
wise been enacted that thieves, when detected, 
shall be posted upon the mizzenmast. 

One of our deserters, it appears, is a "ser- 
geant of marines " from the English sloop of 



A DESERTER. 119 

war, and the other a sailor from the schooner ; 
both strong, large men, and, withal, smart. 
The former came on board through the influ- 
ence of one of our men, whom he met in the 
city; it being considered a point of honor 
with a common sailor to help on a deserter. 
The latter, however, had more to encounter. 
He quietly let himself down from the schooner, 
with his clothes attached, in a parcel, with the 
intention of swimming to the ship, a distance 
of two miles and a half — a feat he would 
have performed had he not forgotten the ebb 
tide in his calculations, which carried him in a 
different direction from that he desired. 

He shouted so loudly, he was heard, taken 
up, and brought on board the Peytona, at his 
own request, and is now at work with the men 
in the forecastle, it being the usual practice to 
dispose of them thus in such cases. The ser- 
geant is a waiter in the first cabin. 

May 1st. — I avail myself of the first oppor- 
tunity to consider the history of Brazil in 
general, giving its most important features, as 
I obtained them from authentic sources. Noth- 



120 DESCRIPTION OF BRAZIL. 

ing awakens a deeper interest in a country 
than having visited it. Accounts of travelers 
then become invested with special interest, 
since comparisons are instituted, and the truth 
tested by actual knowledge. Such is my inter- 
est in the Brazilian empire, though personally 
acquainted with only a portion of it. This 
vast tract, second only in extent to the great 
empires of China and Eussia, stretches along 
about two thirds of the east coast of South 
America, while its superficial area occupies 
nearly half its whole extent. The country 
formerly included under the name of Brazil 
appears to have been much more limited in 
extent ; but the Portuguese, ambitious of new 
acquisitions, have continually added to their 
possessions, which have been confirmed to 
them, from time to time, by treaties with Spain. 

About two thirds of the country is high 
land and mountains; the highest range of 
which traverses the center, and is of an alti- 
tude of six thousand feet. 

The coast range, or Serra do Mar, is by far 
the most picturesque of the Brazilian chains, 
approaching in some parts within sixteen or 






SOIL AND CLIMATE. 121 

eighteen miles of the sea, while in others it 
sweeps inland to a distance of one hundred 
and twenty to one hundred and forty miles. 

The soil near the coast displays evidences 
of the richest cultivation, teeming with abun- 
dance of the choicest productions. The an- 
cient forests, which have been noticed, whose 
giant trees, and countless plants and shrubs, 
so thickly interwoven as almost to defy the 
attempts of man to force a passage, sufficiently 
attest the great fertility of the soil on which 
they grow. 

But the soil as well as the climate exhibits 
different phases in different parts of the coun- 
try, being modified, in a great measure, by 
certain natural conditions. The seasons may 
very properly be styled "the wet and the 
dry," though some divide them into four ; the 
spring commencing in September, the sum- 
mer in December, the autumn in March, and 
the winter in June. 

Langsdorff, the former Eussian consul at 
Eio, remarking upon the seasons of Brazil, 
says, " Winter, in this country, resembles sum- 
mer in the north of Europe ; summer appears 
11 



122 DIAMOND MINES. 

one continuous spring, while spring and au- 
tumn are unconsciously lost in winter and 
summer." It may therefore be said of this 
country, with more propriety than of any 
other, that — 

" Stern winter smiles on this auspicious clime ; 
The fields are florid in eternal prime ; 
From the bleak pole no Avinds inclement blow, 
Mold the round hail, or flake the fleecy snow ; 
But from the breezy deep the groves inhale 
The fragrant murmurs of the eastern gale." 

The most celebrated, though not the most 
important, of the natural productions, are dia- 
monds; the most noted mine being that of 
Serra do Frio. This district is surrounded by 
almost inaccessible rocks, and was formerly 
guarded with so much vigilance that not even 
the governor of the province had the liberty 
of entering it without the special permission of 
the director of the mines. 

The mines are usually wrought during the 
hot season, at a time when the beds of the 
rivers and torrents are dry, and the diamond 
sand can be easily extracted. The operation 
of washing is deferred till the wet season, and 
is performed in the open air, or frequently 



GOLD MINES. 123 

under sheds where the action of the sun is least 
likely to injure the health of those concerned. 
It is said to be a rare thing that one discovers 
more than two or three diamonds of seven- 
teen or twenty carats weight in the course 
of a year, and one may labor twice that 
period without finding one of thirty carats 
weight. 

Down to the date of 1771 the right of work- 
ing the mines was farmed out, but since that 
time the government have taken it into their 
own hands, and they are all under the superin- 
tendence of a board. The crown receive one 
fifth of the total value. 

Gold also exists, though the greater portion 
of the supposed mines remain untouched. 
The most celebrated is that of Congo Loco, 
situated in a beautiful valley, at the distance 
of some forty leagues from Villarica. Bethen- 
court, a Portuguese, was the first person who 
commenced working these mines with his own 
hands, in 1740, and soon amassed a splendid 
fortune. His descendants disposed of them, 
and finally they came into the possession of a 
company of Englishmen, known as the u Anglo- 



124 PRODUCTS OF BRAZIL. 

Brazilian Mining Company/' for ten thousand 
pounds sterling. 

The eagerness of all classes to engage in 
mining pursuits, proved a great obstacle to the 
improvement of the country, for a long time. 
This rage having subsided in a great measure, 
the energies of the people have been directed 
to the safer and infinitely more productive oc- 
cupations of the soih/so that the value of gold 
and diamonds is quite inconsiderable now, com- 
pared with that of various other articles. 

Sugar and coffee are the staple products of 
the country, and the culture of these has in- 
creased with wonderful rapidity; and such is 
the facility for commercial intercourse, that the 
development of her resources may be con- 
stantly and powerfully accelerated. Perhaps 
no country is more favored by nature, as re- 
gards the requisites for carrying on an exten- 
sive commerce, than Brazil. 

All its principal cities are on the coast : its 
harbors are among the finest in the world, and 
are connected with the interior by many large 
rivers, most of which are navigable for a con- 
siderable way inland. 



EDUCATION, RELIGION, COMMERCE. 125 

One lamentable feature in the history of the 
country is a great want of schools, there being 
no means by which even the children of the 
middle classes can acquire any thing like a 
really useful education. 

It was not until 1808 that a printing press 
was introduced, and a newspaper established. 
Several publications are now issued, but, as 
may be supposed, literature has few charms, 
and is likely to find but little improvement 
among such a people. 

The established religion is the Roman Catho- 
lic; all other religions, however, being tol- 
erated. 

Considering the period during which Brazil 
has been colonized, its vast extent and fertility, 
the variety of its productions, and its favorable 
situation for commerce, its progress in the 
accumulation of wealth and population has 
been very slow. Many circumstances combine 
to bring about such a result; such as, "the 
principles by which it was governed by the 
mother country; the oppressive restrictions 
laid on the trade and industry of the col- 
onists, and, more than all the rest, the igno- 
11* 



126 A WARNING. 

ranee of the Portuguese, and their inferiority, 
in respect to science and art, to most other 
nations of Europe. 

A brighter day is already dawning, and the 
future may yet witness more rapid strides in 
civilization than has yet been seen in the 
history of any other people. 

12th. — A young man, twenty-three years 
of age, died to-day of delirium tremens. He was 
an active, healthy fellow on leaving New 
York, but indulged freely in the intoxicating 
beverage on the way out, and during his stay 
at Bahia. Soon after we set sail, he was 
haunted night and day by the fiendish sights 
and sounds of his disease, and his terrific 
groans filled the ship. Last evening seemed 
to bring an abatement of the delirium, and he 
appeared on deck, very weak, and fully con- 
scious that he was dying— a conviction which 
brought him under the influence of rational 
but even more appalling fears. He warned 
all about him to beware of a similar course, 
and left this world entreating us, with his last 
breath, to pray for him. This dreadful death, 



A WET BERTH. 127 

and the solemnity of our first ocean burial, 
evidently produces a profound impression ; but 
I fear it will prove transient, and the memory 
of the dead and his misery be effaced, without 
any transforming power upon those who so 
much need to feel it. 

June 1st. — Weather warm and calm. The 
main object of the passengers seems to be to 
pass away time as comfortably as possible, and 
for this purpose the most shady places are 
selected, and retained not only during the day, 
but till day dawns again. A sudden shower, 
during the night, occasionally causes great 
commotion. Most of those on deck follow 
their first impulse and rush to the companion 
way to escape a drenching, for a shower in the 
tropics is a genuine " opening of the flood- 
gates." Some cool and deliberate individuals, 
however, like my friend Harman, remain un- 
moved through it all. While trying to per- 
suade him to leave his watery bed for one 
more desirable in the cabin, he gave a faint 
groan, and without opening his eyes, replied, 
a 0, don't disturb me, if you please, I'm so com- 
fortable." 



128 EFFECTS OF MOONLIGHT. 

Four months ago, nothing but the softest 
bed would have sufficed for him ; now he can 
take special comfort on a board, in a heavy rain 
storm. So much for the power of adaptation 
to circumstances. 

There is a wonderful fascination in sailing 
upon the ocean, before a gentle breeze, by the 
clear moonlight. But beautiful as are the rays 
of Luna, it is nevertheless dangerous to gaze 
upon them unveiled, in the tropics. Some of 
us paid no attention to the warnings of the 
old sailors, and slept on deck with face and 
eyes exposed, but have been visited, in conse- 
quence, with swollen faces and sore eyes, ac- 
companied with singular nervous irritation, 
and involuntary twitching of the muscles — a 
state of things produced, as our oracles say, by 
being « frost-bitten by the moon." 

So are some of the keenest delights of this 
sublunary sphere mingled with almost death- 
fraught evils; reminding us of the folly of 
placing hopes of happiness on any of the un- 
true things this side heaven. 

2d. — This morning had a long call from a 



OBSTINACY OF THE CAPTAIN. 129 

great right whale, almost as long as the ship. 
It played about us in the most friendly man- 
ner, apparently under the impression that we 
were another whale, and our acquaintance 
desirable. Had we been the fortunate owners 
of a harpoon, we might have unpleasantly un- 
deceived him. 

No signs of land yet, although thirty-five 
days out from Bahia; the average voyage 
from this latter port to Cape Town being only 
twenty-eight days. None seem to know where 
we are. 

The captain keeps all in ignorance with 
respect to longitude. He has been navigating 
in the most perverse manner, actually having 
steered days at a time north, south, east, and 
west, and every possible intermediate course, 
since leaving Brazil, as if sailing all over the 
Atlantic to find the cape. 

Frivolous reasons are sometimes given for 
such conduct, and sometimes none at all. 
Many are confident of an intention to wreck 
us on the coast of South America, with an eye 
to securing the insurance of fourteen thousand 
dollars upon the ship. 



130 NARROW ESCAPE. 

The captain has issued repeated threats of 
late that he will destroy us in some way or 
other, even intimating an intention to set fire 
to the magazine. This aggravated outrage is 
doubtless occasioned by our having forced him, 
as we did, to leave Bahia. 

11th. — This morning, as we were running 
eastward at the' rate of eight miles an hour, in 
the midst of a dense fog, we were startled by 
the cry of " Land ho ! Directly ahead." As 
the mist was dissipated before the rising sun, 
the rocky coast of Africa loomed up a few 
miles before us. The ship was immediately 
put about to the south-west, and thus we were 
again rescued from imminent peril ; or, as I 
believe, from a diabolical scheme against the 
ship and all within her. 

For several hours stumps of trees and green 
branches floated by us on the water, indicating 
we were off the mouth of some river, probably 
the Orange. While indulging in the anticipa- 
tions of seeing land, a cry of a Fire ! — the 
ship is all on fire in the hold ! " resounded 
through the ship, which was followed by a 



THE SHIP ON FIRE. 131 

general rush for the upper deck. In order to 
preserve room for action, those above had 
removed the ladder, which increased the fright 
to a perfect frenzy, inasmuch as a column of 
flame came leaping up at the instant, filling 
the whole hatchway; Mysteriously to myself 
I gained the deck, in season to hear " Big 
George," our second mate, exclaim, in a com- 
manding voice, " Do as I tell you, and Til save 
your lives." 

The calm self-possession of the man, in such 
an emergency, instantly secured him the im- 
plicit obedience of all. Busy hands were 
speedily at work passing water, with all the 
rapidity that mortal fear could inspire; but 
nearly an hour elapsed before the flames were 
sufficiently subdued to think of descending. 

At the end of that time the bold mate went 
down amid the black smoke and charred 
freight, creeping about in the confined hold 
among the cinders, suffocating atmosphere, and 
struggling fire, distributing here and there 
buckets of water that were passed to him, 
until every vestige of a spark disappeared. 

Anson Carrington, the steward, also merits 



132 ORIGIN OP THE FIRE. 

particular credit for his intrepidity, in saving 
us from danger at this fearful crisis. In the 
midst of the tumult the cry was heard, a The 
fire will reach the magazine!" While others 
seemed paralyzed, he darted to the dangerous 
spot, and in several attempts, succeeded in 
depositing the ammunition in a place of com- 
parative safety on a distant part of the deck. 

It was long before quiet was restored, but 
with it came many speculations as to the origin 
of the fire. A searching investigation was 
held, resulting in the revelation that one of 
the ship's boys had been in the practice of 
stealing through the place with a lamp, for the 
purpose of obtaining some liquor ; and being 
frightened, had dropped it, and thereby occa- 
sioned our distress. As a sort of penalty, he 
has been confined ; but the jolly songs that he 
sings is proof that his imprisonment is any 
thing but irksome to him. There is indignant 
talk, but the seamen are under no control, and 
we dare not meddle with them, neither the 
captain nor mates; and the only practicable 
course seems to be, to keep on the right side 
of them, if possible, and get along as easily as 



OUR UNTHANKFULNESS. 133 

we can. Our escape is even more wonderful 
than our preservation from shipwreck. Had 
the liquor casks taken fire, no human power 
could have saved the ship, and scarcely, by any 
possibility, the lives ; having but two boats, and 
those in a miserable condition. 

The ship, which was headed toward the land 
at the first alarm, has once more been laid on 
her course ; and the confusion of weeping and 
congratulation, wonder and inquiry, has suc- 
ceeded - to the agonizing screams of the two 
hours passed on the confines of a fearful 
death. 

This is another signal interposition of Prov- 
idence in our favor, yet no one says any thing 
of thankfulness for our deliverance. The many 
vicissitudes we have experienced, the hardships 
and dangers encountered, so far from inciting 
us to right action, have, as it were, crusted our 
minds with a sort of insensibility to all consid- 
erations except those of the present moment. 
Memory, gratitude, and hope have alike grown 
dim with us all. 

12 



CHAPTER VII. 

A LUNAR BOW. — TERRIFIC STORM. — LANDING AT CAPS 
TOWN. — RAMBLES ABOUT THE CITY. — IMPRISONMENT 
OF THE CAPTAIN. — VISIT TO SEYOLA, THE KAFFIR 
CHIEF. — A PRAYER MEETING ON SHIPBOARD. 

15th. — A calm, clear, and beautiful day. 
Early this morning K. R, of New York, a 
young man of twenty-six, came to his death by 
disease caused by dissipation at Bahia. He was 
a merry, lively fellow, with a smile and a joke 
for every one; and his early, unhappy death 
has thrown a shade of melancholy over every 
body. After breakfast, all assembled to pay 
the last tribute of respect to his mortal remains, 
and witness his burial in the great cemetery of 
the deep — the mighty ocean. The usual ser- 
vice was read, and the corpse, with a fearful 
plunge, sank into the sea, there to rest till the 
archangel's trump shall awake the sleeping 
millions and call them to judgment. 

(134) 



SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS. 135 

17th. — Passengers are disposed to put into 
Cape Town, and a petition has been drawn up 
and presented to the captain with this request, 
at least that it might be done for provisions 
and water, as we are again placed on a quart 
allowance, and that so slimy it is scarcely en- 
durable. We have food of no description suf- 
ficient to last the voyage through, especially 
at present rates of sailing ; for we have already 
been from Bahia long enough to have reached 
Australia under ordinary circumstances. 

Many felt like saying, " We must and will 
go to Cape Town, and are prepared, if neces- 
sary, to rise and take the ship, and carry it 
through ourselves." The captain objects for 
no apparent reason but to indulge his ca- 
pricious and reckless temper. 

How can we expect any thing but ruin with 
such a captain, an insubordinate crew, and all 
the dangers which rum" can possibly cause, 
staring* us in the face ? 



22d. — At eleven, A. M., the joyful cry of 
" land " was again heard. It was Table Moun- 
tain, the three distinct summits of which are 



136 A. NEW DANGER. 

visible in clear weather at a distance of forty 
miles. The heavy fog only permitted us an 
occasional glimpse, though we were much 
nearer than this ; yet it was sufficient to cause 
much excitement. While beating about, a 
small coasting sloop hailed us, with the infor- 
mation that we were nearing an extensive 
reef, and, of course, in new and close proximity 
to danger. After considerable solicitation, the 
captain was prevailed upon to take one of her 
men on board as pilot, though it was a sullen 
consent. Left to ourselves we should have 
probably been dashed to pieces in one half 
hour more, on the horn of a reef across which 
our course would have taken us. As it was, 
we quickly made the mouth of the harbor, or 
rather roadstead, for Cape Town is one of the 
most dangerous places for anchorage, called a 
harbor, in the whole world. Not being safe to 
run in this evening we shall lay off until 
morning, eagerly wishing for the wasting of 
the lagging hours. 

23d. — A most magnificent and striking ap- 
pearance was visible in the heavens last night, 



APPEARANCE OF THE HEAVENS. 137 

upon which we gazed with intense interest — 
a species of lunar bow. The sky was full of 
small, detached clouds of a threatening and 
watery aspect. The moon herself was not 
visible, her place being known only as the 
center of a circular area of colored light. This 
was bounded by a large and broad ring of rich 
and strongly-defined prismatic colors, the space 
within which was filled with an indescribably 
gorgeous display of mingled and endlessly- 
shifting masses of the same color, varying and 
blending like the forms in a gigantic kaleido- 
scope, yet with a steady motion, instead of the 
precipitate changes of that instrument. Even 
far without the ring, the sullen faces of the 
clouds were flecked and tinged with the same 
bright hues. 

There were evidently two distinct strata of 
these " eirri" and they were racing in opposite 
directions. The partial openings and inter- 
lacings of these two across the broad, pale disk 
of light in the moon's place, formed a strange 
and startling play, taking to themselves vari- 
ous intricate combinations, like the wheels 
within wheels one sometimes sees in brilliant 
12* 



138 A DANGEROUS EXPERIMENT. 

fireworks. It was altogether a rich and rare 
spectacle. 

This morning we had a heavy gale and high 
sea, making it dangerous to be in the harbor, 
though anchored. We were utterly weary with 
the sea, and were all desirous of running in, 
even at the risk of our lives, hoping we might 
be fortunate enough to plant our feet once 
more upon land. The pilot, a weather-beaten 
old Dutchman, thought it a matter of doubt if 
we were able to land, but if we said so, he 
would try. We said so — he put her before the 
wind, and at a terrific rate we surged along 
upon the immense seas, under close-reefed top- 
sails, passed the long line of breakers by the 
Lion's Rump, and dropped anchor abreast of 
the town. In less than two hours the cus- 
tom-house officers and the consul, George S. 
Holmes, Esq., came on board in a boat. We 
were told we had performed a most presump- 
tuous and hazardous experiment ; that we had 
been watched from Telegraph Hill, with the 
most intense anxiety, in the momentary expec- 
tation that we should be swamped, or dashed 
to pieces upon the rocks. In a little time, not- 



CAPE TOWN. 139 

withstanding the heavy sea, a majority of the 
passengers went on shore, — preferring the 
dangerous risk of landing, and a bath in the 
surf, rather than to wait on board a day or two 
longer. On landing, our eyes were greeted 
w T ith the sight of a familiar thing — the schooner 
Euphrasia, of New York, bound for Australia, 
which we had left at Bahia, but was now in 
the harbor before us. 

29th. — Our first inclination upon landing at 
Cape Town was to ramble about the place, and 
feast our eyes with such land luxuries as we 
could find. We found the town to be regu- 
larly laid out, containing several good squares ; 
broad and straight streets, crossing each other 
at right angles, many of them watered by 
canals, planted on either side with trees, in the 
Dutch fashion. The houses are mostly built 
of brick or granite, flat-roofed, and chiefly white, 
with green windows; being large and airy, 
with an elevated Terrace in front, and small 
gardens in the rear. British residents in India 
frequently resort hither for their health ; so the 
town has generally the appearance of bustle 



140 POPULATION OF CAPE TOWN. 

and gayety. The environs are picturesque, 
and many beautiful gardens, laid out between 
it and the surrounding mountains, add very 
much to the pleasing effect. 

The population is said to be thirty thousand, 
made up, as we thought, of every conceivable 
nation on earth ; for we were not long in dis- 
covering Dutch, Hottentots, Malays, Abyssini- 
ans, Chinese, and* English. We also noticed 
liveried persons, hanging on to the back of ele- 
gant carriages, and coachmen in the same garb 
of servitude ; so there is evidently aristocracy 
in Cape Town. 

The pronunciation of this place, as I learned 
it at school, I find to be erroneous, the people 
here pronouncing it as a word of two syllables, 
with the accent on the first instead of the last, 
as we are accustomed to make it. It looks out 
west and north upon the open sea, from a level 
plain between the shore and Table Mountain, 
which stretches behind it, and continues south 
and west in an irregular curve, until it ends at 
the southern point of the bay, in the disjoint- 
ed, rounded summit, called the Lion's Rump. 
The town has a pervadingly English aspect, 




CIRAGY, CAPE TOW! 



THE MALAYS OF CAPE TOWN. 141 

though very much modified by the people and 
accessories of the numerous other races that 
inhabit it. Being a military station, its streets 
seem, to us Americans, literally to swarm with 
officers and sentinels on duty. 

Of the ten thousand slender, swarthy Malays, 
some few are intelligent and wealthy ; most, 
however, are an exceedingly stupid set, retain- 
ing all their slothful orientalisms, and taking 
no thought for the morrow. They, as well as 
the Hottentots, and other races not of Euro- 
pean blood, generally called "coolies," are 
governed by a special class of enactments, 
copies of which are posted conspicuously over 
the town, on large sign-boards, six feet square, 
like the rates on a toll bridge or turnpike gate ; 
prescribing their wages, hours of daily labor, 
weight of burdens to be carried, &c. Any one 
desirous of having a piece of work performed, 
may call upon any of these not otherwise ac- 
tively employed, and set them at work for the 
legal time, at legal rates, and in case of refusal 
they are imprisoned. 

Our second day in town was spent mostly in 
the Botanic Garden, really a "scientific para- 



■ 



142 THE BOTANIC GARDEN. 

dise," — if there is such a place, — perhaps un- 
equaled in interest by any of its size in the 
world. It covers an area of twenty acres, on 
one side of the magnificent avenue, so called, 
and directly opposite the stately Government 
House, the official residence of the governor 
of Cape Colony. The garden is in bloom the 
year round ; and coming in the middle of it 
we find the camellias (the size of thrifty peach 
trees) perfect masses of blossoms ; the walks 
bordered with monthly roses, orange and 
lemon trees, filling the air with perfume ; Cape 
jessamines, lilies, and innumerable varieties of 
geraniums, in full flower. If such is mid-win- 
ter, what must the splendor of summer be ? 

Our first Sabbath, we attended service at 
St. George's Cathedral, which stands within 
the gate of the avenue, adjoining the grounds 
of the Government House. The music was, 
perhaps, the most impressive part of the ser- 
vice to us, the chanting being performed by a 
choir of boys, with sweet and well-trained 
voices. The sacred quiet of the place, to- 
gether with the delicious music, deeply affected 
our hearts, and awakened within us many 



AN ACQUAINTANCE FORMED. 143 

thoughts and feelings which had become tor- 
pid, in the foul and unwholesome atmosphere 
of our godless ship. Souls, like steel, rust 
under certain corroding circumstances. 

Good fortune, I find, has not wholly forsaken 
me. Through the influence of one of our 
shipmates I have formed a pleasant and profit- 
able acquaintance with a young English officer 
but lately returned from an expedition, with 
his regiment, into the Kaffir country. Being 
one of two or three invited to his home, we 
found it a cottage, three miles from the town, on 
the Wynberg road, literally covered with roses, 
geraniums, and jessamines; situated upon a 
small eminence, overlooking the town and the 
limitless Atlantic beyond. His pretty young 
wife and children met us at the door, and wel- 
comed us cordially to the hospitalities of their 
home. After a luxurious dinner we related 
to him the story of our sufferings and hair- 
breadth escapes, receiving in return narratives 
of adventures in the field, for ours upon the 
flood. A bunch of assegais and arrows, tipped 
with virulent poison, a stout Kaffir bow, a war 
club with a round head, set with sharp knobs, 



144 KAFFIR WARFARE. 

like the old German u morgenstern," hung 
upon the wall. 

Sitting beneath these pagan trophies, he dis- 
played to us the complete suit of stout leather 
in which he made the campaign against the 
Kaffirs, and told us the occurrences of the war, 
in which we were much interested. The troops 
had notice at one time, it. seems, of a body of 
Kaffirs concealed in the depths of a vast forest, 
and immediately marched against them. 

Advancing as far as possible with horses, 
they left them guarded, and went forward 
through the dense " chapparal," as they call it, 
having borrowed a word from Mexico, seem- 
ingly, to serve their purpose. The low trees 
and underbrush becoming at last too thick to 
be penetrated, they actually scrambled a mile 
or two over their tops, as we had done through 
the masses of undergrowth in the forests of 
Brazil, came by surprise upon the enemy, and 
routed them with considerable loss. It is gen- 
erally found, however, to be useless to operate 
against these hardy and athletic foemen with 
any thing less rapid and efficient than cav- 
alry. 



CUMBROUS TEAMS. 145 

An invitation to protract our stay as we 
chose was gladly accepted, and the next morn- 
ing found us on an excursion before breakfast, 
in company with our host. The first thing 
that attracted our attention was the huge 
wagons of the Cape, the dimensions of which 
may be imagined by the size of the largest 
wheels, which are sometimes ten feet high, 
with a hub like a hogshead, and an enormous 
iron tire a foot in width. These gigantic ve- 
hicles are drawn by twelve, twenty, and even 
thirty cattle, guided by two or three men, who 
make long journeys to and from the country 
with produce, finding particular convenience 
in their wide wheels, which enable them to 
pass over the loose, shifting sands, which they 
sometimes find on their return, in hills of ten 
feet, where they had before found a hard and 
level road. 

The oxen are longer limbed than ours, with 
narrow, wild-looking faces, and immense horns 
bending upwards and outwards with a para- 
bolic curve ; sometimes five and six feet in 
length, and spreading so as to measure more 
than ten feet. 

13 



146 AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. 

After an hour or two of rambling we returned 
to breakfast. These pleasant social meals at 
table are a wonderful luxury to us, after our 
long condemnation to the vulgar method of 
carrying our food to a corner to eat. We sat 
a long time enjoying it, though we had in 
prospect an excursion to Table Mountain, reck- 
oned a good day's jaunt. We started rather 
late, and strolled leisurely up the slopes toward 
the mountain, passing ponds overgrown with 
calla ^Ethiopia, as thick and weed-like as pond 
lilies at home. 

As we passed through a grove of African 
pine we met two seafaring men, rambling 
about like ourselves, in one of whom, to my 
surprise, I recognized Captain McDowell, of the 
schooner Euphrasia. We had a long inter- 
view, conversing upon various matters, during 
which he informed me of his intention to open 
business in Australia, having a full, assorted 
cargo of goods, groceries, and liquors for that 
purpose, and concluded by offering to furnish 
me a stock of merchandise on excellent terms, 
if I wished to enlist in that direction. But 
finding that the sale of the "fiery element" 



VISIT TO TABLE MOUNTAIN. 147 

would be a necessary department of the busi- 
ness, I declined the undertaking. 

Only two of the company ascended the 
mountain, as it began to grow foggy, and the 
precipitous and rugged character of it render 
it exceedingly dangerous at such times, beside 
shutting out the prospect. 

They wandered about till they found them- 
selves in the " table cloth," a heavy, dense fog, 
which often envelops the summit. They had 
discretion, however, to follow the rules for such 
cases ; sat quietly down, and remained folded 
in their cool blanket through the night, and 
returned in the morning chilled, weary, and 
hungry ; glad to escape the fate of one who 
had some time before been dashed to pieces 
upon the rugged rocks below, by attempting 
to find his way down. 

Wynberg road is a favorite walk with us, 
being the most perfect I have ever seen — 
built in the thorough, macadamized manner of 
the English — well-graded, even, smooth, hard, 
with very little dust, and a surface almost inky 
black. 

It is lined on both sides, a distance of almost 



148 INTERVIEW WITH THE KAFFIR, CHIEF. 

eight miles, with cottages and country seats, 
gardens, vineyards, and parks, all very neatly 
kept and in high cultivation. 

In the Wynberg prison is confined Seyolo, 
the Kaffir chief, long the most powerful ruler 
in that part of Africa, and the worst enemy of 
the English colony. About five months since, 
he voluntarily surrendered himself to govern- 
ment, and has since been kept in confinement. 
Gaining permission to visit him, we entered 
his cell, when he arose, extended his hand, 
and gave us a cordial greeting. He appears 
about twenty-seven years of age, being six feet 
and one inch in height, and of the most per- 
fect proportions. His skin is quite dark, his 
head well-formed and high, his eye full, mild, 
and expressive ; his mouth really beautiful, and 
his teeth of pure whiteness. Altogether, his 
countenance expresses fine and manly feelings, 
and much intelligence ; not any thing of the 
savage nature and habits we had expected to 
read in it. 

He has several wives, one of whom is with 
him — a shy little creature of sixteen, with a 
beautiful hand and full, dark eyes. She gazed 



INDEPENDENCE DAY. 149 

upon us a moment, and then coiling herself, 
like a serpent, in her blanket, remained out 
of sight, silent anci motionless, until we de- 
parted. 

Various are the places we have visited, 
and the excursions we have made, while with 
this pleasant family; but such detentions are 
not what we desire, provided we could have 
tolerable arrangements in a direct voyage to 
Australia — the place of our destination. 

July 4th was ushered in by a glorious anni- 
versary sunrise. Although in a foreign port, 
and a military station, the Americans and lov- 
ers of liberty were wide awake for a celebra- 
tion. The port regulations would not permit 
a salute to be fired ; consequently their enthu- 
siasm was spent in a dinner, spiced with music, 
speeches, &c. 

We had intended to sail this afternoon ; 
indeed, we were ready to sail four days after 
entering this port, and should have done so, 
but the French passengers lodged a protest 
against the captain, with the consul, charging 
him with trying to run the ship ashore twice, 
13* 



150 HEAVY SEAS. 

as well as several other violations of duty. 
Upon this he was imprisoned, and was only 
liberated by the intervention of passengers 
who desired to be on their way, and not from 
any good will to him. 

He is determined to revenge, in some way 
or other ; and of course it is an obstacle to our 
progress. 

10th. — We were, through much difficulty, 
able to go out to sea on the 5th. The seas, in 
this part of the ocean, are the heaviest in the 
world; and within a few moments there will 
arise around us such billows as I never dreamed 
of before. At seven, last evening, the wind 
began to rise, the clouds to wear a lurid aspect, 
which was soon followed by rolling thunder 
and flashing lightning. The vessel was thrown 
upon her beam ends, and a leak forced its way 
through ; but this was soon remedied, and we 
are still alive, through the infinite mercy of 
Him who rules the winds and waves. 

17th. — We have passed through a storm 
fearful indeed. The heavens grew dark, filled 



TERRIFIC STORM. 151 

with clouds like the lurid masses from which 
the first heavy burst of rain sometimes falls 
in our summer thunder storms at home, but 
beyond measure more vast and threatening in 
aspect, and rapid in movement. It appeared 
as if each were a reservoir of a hideous tem- 
pest, discharging their streams upon us, and 
the water about us, with such power as to 
send us careering upon the bounding waves 
in utter confusion. I saw repeatedly two of 
these precipitous waves sweeping toward us at 
once, curling high above our low bulwarks 
from opposite sides, apparently ready to break 
upon our heads, when we would slide beyond 
them, or rise nearly to their summit upon some 
third billow, that lifted us from below like some 
gigantic hand 

Sometimes, from the top of a mountain wave, 
I could look for miles over the vast ocean 
desert, and the next moment would find us 
buried in the depths beneath. 

Night closed around us, and the storm 
abated not in the least. The black heavens 
were above us, and the angry seas beneath, 
while around us on every side swept the furi- 



152 the captain's despair. 

ous wind. The situation of two hundred souls, 
— men, women, and children, — shut up in a 
little space below, thrown helplessly hither 
and thither for so many desperate hours, was 
painful in the extreme. 

While endeavoring to administer some com- 
fort to some of the feebler victims, I heard a 
crash on deck, followed by the sound of rush- 
ing water through the thick planking on deck. 
Eepairing to the spot, I found the jib-boom 
and fore-topmast had been carried away, the 
former gone overboard ; the latter, tangled with 
rigging and shattered spars, lay across the bul- 
warks. The captain appeared with a face 
whiter than I ever supposed his red visage 
could ever be, and exclaimed, "0 God, all is 
lost!" 

He ordered the main spencer to be set, and 
went into the cabin, making an effort to con- 
dole with the passengers, the extremity of the 
danger having, for once, made him really hu- 
man. Our condition was now known to all, 
and the scene in the crowded cabin was solemn 
indeed ; for the expectation was universal that 
the gigantic seas would soon finish what the 



A SOLEMN SCENE. 153 

wind had begun. A short consultation among 
those who held the sustaining hopes of the 
gospel, and were therefore free from the abject 
fears and lamentations of others, resulted in a 
decision to hold a meeting for prayer in our 
extremity. The suggestion was eagerly re- 
ceived, and an Englishman named Croke, a 
local Methodist preacher, together with Buck- 
ley and myself, conducted a service brief and 
simple, but earnest enough, being made im- 
pressive by its dreadful reality. 

We reminded the groaning and weeping 
company of their loose, ungodly lives, and 
great wickedness, even on this voyage, and 
urged the duty of immediate repentance, and 
looking to God for mercy. 

It was also said, — and it was my own firm 
belief, — that we had not been brought so far on 
our way, through such imminent perils, to be 
destroyed now. 

We reminded them of the two escapes from 
shipwreck on the coast ; of the third on the 
South African reef; the fourth, in entering Table 
Bay ; the fifth, in the calm after we had left it ; 
of our providential supplies of water north of 



154 PRAYERS FOR DELIVERANCE. 

the line ; of the still more wonderful salvation 
from death by fire ; and by thus presenting 
the hopes which animated us, we calmed, in 
some measure, the general fright. 

The captain himself summoned all hands to 
a second meeting of the same kind afterward, 
and was one of the most attentive hearers. 
The evening witnessed a third no less earnest 
and serious. The homely prayers and ill-sung 
psalms could not but have a solemn meaning, 
when the starving, drenched, weary, and dis- 
pirited congregation were thrown every mo- 
ment hither and thither by the tempests of 
Him whom they addressed — when they asked 
preservation from danger against which human 
effort was utterly powerless — which threat- 
ened to bury them speedily in the depths of 
the sea. The women wept quietly ; the men 
prayed and groaned, and even the weather- 
beaten face of our wicked old commander was 
wet with unaccustomed tears. 

At the close of the service the hurricane 
was still at its height, and the same enormous 
seas still breaking over our dismantled ship. 
At midnight, however, there was a sudden 



THANKS FOR PRESERVATION. 155 

change. The clouds were dissipated and scat- 
tered ; the wind and the sea fell with a strange 
rapidity, the whole appearing no less than a 
signal answer to prayer, which called forth a 
service of thanksgiving this morning — the 
first Sabbath observance among the ship's com- 
pany for nearly six months. 

20th. — Various expedients have been re- 
sorted to, for the purpose of repairing the 
damage done to the ship ; but most of the ex- 
periments prove insufficient as yet. By means 
of a floating spar, we are heading toward the 
Isle of France — have made about fifty miles. 

24th. — Fine weather. The captain himself 
made arrangements for "church service," and 
tolled the bell as the summons to divine wor- 
ship. Croke gave us a short and sensible dis- 
course, from Rev. xxii. 1 and 2 verses. 

The dangers so recently escaped, our present 
disabled condition on a vessel little better than 
a wreck, the unknown perils to be met before 
we reach our anticipated port, the chances that 
we never reach it, or any other, are ample 



156 LAND SEEN, 

reasons for seriousness in our audience. Yet I 
cannot avoid the painful conviction that most 
of them are frightened into solemnity for the 
time being. 

28th. — Surely no one ever penned a truer 
line, than that "joy and sorrow meet together." 
It is verily so, we thought, as a thrill of joy 
went through every heart, at the cry of " land," 
this morning, and almost a moment after saw 
the assembled company on deck witnessing 
themselves slowly drifting toward the shore of 
Madagascar, upon a heavy swell. 

The captain ordered another effort to be 
made to get the first jury rudder into efficient 
operation. After an hour or two of cutting, 
carving, and hoisting, the attempt succeeded, 
amid tears and cheers of the whole ship's com- 
pany. Through the day, however, we gradu- 
ally approached the land, and at evening could 
plainly see the rugged outlines and green 
forests of the hills near the coast, and the suc- 
cessive ranges that rose one behind another 
toward the interior. 

A light breeze, springing up, has carried us 



SICKNESS. 157 

out to sea again, saving us, in all human proba- 
bility, not only from shipwreck, but from the 
weapons and teeth of the cannibals who in- 
habit this part of the coast. 

August 5th. — This monotony and suspense, 
together with the scarcity of water and pro- 
visions, are producing an unfavorable effect 
upon many minds and bodies. Nervous com- 
plaints are becoming frequent among men, 
women, and children. Moreover, we have de- 
tected the terrible signs of scurvy, but have 
agreed to keep this startling news to ourselves, 
at least for the present, confining our efforts to 
the maintenance of good spirits, and some 
degree of healthful activity among our sickly 
and discouraged passengers. 

6th. — A strange apathy and indifference 
has settled down upon nearly all. Our long 
series of disappointments and hardships has 
seemed to render hearts callous, and deaden 
the sensibilities of many. Nearly half are sick 
with a slow kind of ship fever, the result of 
general exhaustion from mental suffering and 
14 



158 NEW MODE OF TREATING THE DYING. 

physical debility. Thin, yellow, haggard faces, 
wearing the most woe-begone looks, are plenty. 
Some neither wash nor go for their daily 
rations — one quart of water, the same quan- 
tity of rice, a little miserable bread, and salt 
junk. One poor fellow really set himself about 
dying. He has lain in his bunk, obstinately 
refusing to go on deck, or even move about 
for any purpose whatever. This excited con- 
siderable feeling, as, in the general unhealthi- 
ness, one such case might prove disastrous 
indeed. Having a brother-in-law of more 
cheerfulness than himself, who saw what was 
needed, he took a friend or two, and proceeded 
to the couch of Bob, saluting him in a strong 
and hopeful voice — " Halloa ! What's all this ? 
H'ist out there, Bob ! " A groan accompanied 
the feeble answer, "I can't — I'm dying." 

His visitors, considering that no unnecessary 
dying could be allowed on the ship, actually 
laid hands upon him, forced him upon deck, 
where they subjected him to a thorough bath, 
which he very much needed. Although the 
operation was any thing but agreeable, it has 
produced a favorable result, and he is now 



THE ISLE OF BOURBON. 159 

doing well. This day we sighted Bourbon, but 
with a head wind. The view, however, gives 
us a gleam of hope that we may succeed in 
reaching the Isle of France. 

9th. — Yesterday we could discover trees 
and houses . on the Bourbon Island, and the 
Picton de Nevis rising majestically above the 
other hills, furrowed throughout the whole 
ascent with many deep ravines and gorges, 
while here and there we could see small streamy 
wandering down its sides. The sight really 
revived our spirits ; but to-day we are blown off 
to sea again, and shall therefore have more 
difficulty in making the Isle of France. Our 
rudder chains have corroded rapidly upon the 
ship's copper, and have had to be successively 
replaced with such as could be spared from the 
rigging. Our last one from the main rigging 
has been put on, and in case of a heavy gale, 
our situation would be truly appalling. We 
can only trust in God. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

ENTER THE HARBOR OF PORT LOUIS. — VISIT AT THE 
ISLE OP FRANCE. — GRAVE OP HARRIET NEWELL. — 
A MALABAR FUNERAL. — ENTER THE BRIG NAUTILUS. 
— LAND AT MELBOURNE. 

" O, who can tell save he whose heart hath tried, 
And danced in triumph o'er the waters wide, 
The exulting sense — the pulse's maddening play — 
That thrills the wanderer of the trackless way." 

Thus sang Byron ; but methinks he would 
never have written of the " deep and dark-blue 
ocean" with as much serenity and enthusiasm 
had he been tossed upon the " bounding waste/' 
in a miserable bark like ours, with the ever- 
recurring expectation of sinking in the depths, 
without a grave — "unknelled, uncoffined, and 
unknown." 

The "triumph" and the "exultation" were 
more certainly ours on sight of land, when a 
near view of the much-wished-for isle greeted 
us on the 15th, as will be seen from this date. 

(160) 



ATTRACTIVE VIEW. 161 



&J 



Its whole outline is singular and striking, 
being broken with many jagged, pointed peaks, 
among which Peter Botte, with his straight 
shaft and high-capped summit, is king. The 
winter rains have left the island clothed in a 
mantle of fresh green. 

To us half-starved, sea-worn wretches, the 
scene is as lovely as the Delectable Hills to 
Bunyan's poor pilgrims; and we gaze with 
profound delight upon the mountain tops ; the 
misty clouds above them, and their sloping 
sides, dotted with plantations and villas, varie- 
gated with the bright colors of growing crops. 

16th. — No sleep last night, for anxiety, 
hope, and fear. All hands were watching for 
the dawn; an incessant lookout being main- 
tained for fear of reefs, as no one on board is 
acquainted with this part of the Indian Ocean. 
We were all night within a few miles of port, 
and at dawn, the breeze being very light and 
not favorable, we hoisted a signal of distress, 
and fired guns for any steamer that might be 
inside, this being one of the English mail 
stations. 

14* 



162 ARRIVAL IN PORT. 

In an hour or two a black steamship, from 
the Red Sea, came to our assistance, and towed 
us into the harbor of Port Louis, — a rusty, 
ragged, dirty set of us, — with our fair propor- 
tions sadly disfigured by the rickety little jury 
spars forward — an ungainly and woful spec- 
tacle. 

A crowd, attracted by the sound of our guns, 
were gathered upon the mole to witness our 
arrival. The French, English, and American 
consuls came on board soon after we reached 
our anchorage, and more astonishment was 
never visible in human countenances than in 
theirs, as they beheld the wan faces and tat-- 
tered costumes of the passengers, the stripped 
and sea-beaten aspect of our shattered bul- 
warks and maimed spars, and the unheard-of 
number stowed away in our small quarters. 

A brief examination drew from them the 
remark that we ought to be thankful to God 
that we -had ever reached any port at all, in 
such a miserable condition. Their sympathies 
were so effectually excited, they offered to 
provide houses for our convenience and com- 
fort on shore, each for his own nation. Some 



SYMPATHY OF THE PEOPLE. 163 

left the ship at once, but most of us have re- 
mained till sent for, being, entirely destitute of 
money. 

We are anchored near a Scotch vessel, which 
arrived two weeks before us, having been out 
in the same gale in which we lost our rudder. 
She was swept clean from stem to stern of 
bulwarks, deck houses, sails, and every thing 
except her bare spars, and the same time lost 
a passenger and sailor. She too is bound for 
Australia, and is in for repairs. 

All day we have received visits from the 
citizens of the place, and from neighboring 
vessels. Many friendly people, hearing of our 
destitution, have brought and distributed among 
us quantities "of delicious fruit — a most wel- 
come gift. 

Early in the evening, some, desirous of en- 
joying themselves at every possible opportunity, 
commenced an entertainment of vocal and in- 
strumental music ; and w T ith songs, speeches, 
and cheering, the moonlight jubilee has lasted 
long. It is almost like a transition from pur- 
gatory to paradise. The dreary experiences of 
the past are forgotten ; and so, alas ! is the 



164 OUR MISERABLE CONDITION. 

hand of God who brought us through them, j 
Once safe in port, and sure of going ashore j 
to-morrow, nothing is heard or remembered of 
prayers or thanksgivings. Such is man's in- 
gratitude. 

25th. — Early on the 17th, the captain came 
with two scows, one for us and another for our 
baggage. In a few moments we were landed 
upon the stone steps leading into the cus- 
tom house. Here our beggarly chattels were 
drawn up and submitted to the inspection of 
the government officials, who lumped them all 
together as a parcel of trash, not worth im- 
posing a duty on. Poor as they were, they 
were, nevertheless, indispensable to us; and 
securing them as best we could, we marched 
through the heart of the crowded and curious 
city to our allotted abodes, presenting an ap- 
pearance, it must be acknowledged, somewhat 
like prison birds, with our negligent sea clothes, 
and despairing expressions, induced by our 
long train of suffering, and graven so deeply 
as not to be effaced by even 'twenty hours of 
physical comfort and safety. 



GOOD ACCOMMODATIONS. 165 

Indeed, reflection brought but little gladness, 
for most of us were absolutely penniless, hav- 
ing spent all our funds in outfit, passage 
money, subscribing to pay the ship's bills, or 
current expenses. 

We were directed to a large stone store- 
house, one hundred and twenty-five feet in 
length, nearly full of goods, with an airy gar- 
ret, loosely floored, which was to be our home 
for a little time. We at once "located" upon 
separate portions of the floor, arranged our 
small property, and commenced housekeeping 
in good earnest. Fresh provisions and fruit 
were served out to us every morning, and 
each mess cooked in turn, having but one 
place for the operation. We luxuriated in the 
unbounded supply of fresh water, and lost no 
time in effecting thorough purification of our 
persons and clothing, realizing the truth of 
Thomson's sentiment, that — 

" Even from the body's purity the mind 
Receives a secret, sympathetic aid." 

Thus being rendered little more human, by 
Nature's own element, we turned our atten- 



166 DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. 

tion to things about us, and to the history of 
the place. 

Port Louis, it seems, was originally settled 
by the French, and most of its buildings are 
in a French style, but now mainly occupied by 
the English ; although the population, number- 
ing about twenty thousand, includes represen- 1 
tatives from at least eighteen different nations. 
It is almost encircled by a range of mountains, 
which, with the sea, enclose as delightful a 
garden as can be found on earth, filled with all f 
the luxury and magnificence of the tropics. 

The city contains many fine buildings, has j 
wide, handsome streets, with gas, abundance j 
of water, and is a busy commercial place. 

The real founder of this important settle- 
ment was the justly celebrated M. de la Bour 
donnaye, who was made governor in 1734. j 
Perceiving the importance of the island, which 
its two excellent harbors rendered of the great- 
est consequence to any European power hav- 
ing, or wishing to have, possessions in India, | j 
he set about its improvement with a zeal 
sagacity, and success, that have rarely been 
equaled, never surpassed. 



A PUBLIC BENEFACTOR. 167 

He constructed numerous roads, aqueducts, 
and other public works, and fixed the seat 
of government here, which he may be said 
to have created as well as fortified. For the 
space of eleven years only his administra- 
tion continued ; but it was sufficient for him to 
change the whole aspect of the country, and 
render it a prosperous and valuable colony. 

Sad though it seem, these signal services 
met with a most ungrateful return. On his 
return to France, in 1748, he was thrown into 
the Bastile, where he was immured more than 
three years, and as the sequel proved, without 
the smallest foundation for any of the charges 
made against him. He died the victim of this 
disgraceful treatment in 1755. 

This island, it is well known, is the scene 
of St. Pierre's inimitable tale of Paul and 
Virginia. The wreck of the St. Geran, so 
striking and affecting an incident in the story, 
is a real event, which took place on the 18th 
of August, 1744. 

The whole island is full of delightful scenery. 
The climate is faultless, and it is already a 
place of considerable resort for invalids. When 



168 THE CEMETERY. 

steam navigation shall become more general, 
the place will, undoubtedly, become a strong 
attraction to thousands of health seekers, as 
well as those in pursuit of pleasure. At pres- 
ent there is only the arrival of the monthly 
English mail steamer from Suez, and depart- 
ures for Calcutta and Australia. 

We noticed in the auction marts numbers 
of Arabian merchants ; the noblest specimens 
of physical development I have ever seen — 
stately, dignified, and well proportioned, with 
noble faces, olive complexions, large black 
eyes, and magnificent beards. Some of them 
were mounted on beautiful Arab horses, and 
others made use of carriages of English manu- 
facture. One of the most attractive spots in 
the neighborhood is the cemetery, on the sea 
shore, about a mile and a half from the city, 
where many travelers, health-seeking invalids, 
and missionaries have been buried; among 
whom is Mrs. Harriet Newell, who reposes in a 
spot lovely enough for the last resting place 
even of one as heavenly as she. 

In striking contrast with this Christian buri- 
al, as I imagined it, was a Malabar funeral, 



1 




* z 

2 c 



- 

a 



A FUNERAL. 169 

which came under my observation in the im- 
mediate vicinity. The corpse was carried in a 
crescent-shaped car, ten feet in length, made of 
reeds and light wicker, and gayly decorated 
with bits of ribbon, flowers, brass ornaments, 
bells, and any thing whatever, to make a show 
and a noise. 

This was supported by four men, before 
whom went a procession of natives, dancing, 
sparring, shouting, and blowing horns till they 
arrived at the grave, when the corpse was fed 
with a mixture of rice and sand, and some 
pennies given it to pay its passage to heaven. 
They ended their ceremony by the washing of 
hands in a pond in the cemetery, smoking a 
funeral pipe together on a grass plat, and divid- 
ing the effects of the deceased, which by their 
custom are distributed among the whole circle 
of friends. Alas for these deluded victims of a 
miserable superstition! How much they need 
the civilizing and enlightening influences of a 
holier religion! 

The Malabar women wear all manner of 
ornaments in their ears and nostrils, and on 
their arms and ankles ; some of them having 
15 



170 THE MAGIC FLAT-IRON. 

considerable capital thus invested; and look 
like walking jewelry shops. 

During my stay on the island, I have made 
several new acquaintances ; some by chance, 
and some by means of a flat-iron. When first 
settled in our attic, we did a great business in 
washing and smoothing our clothes ; and as the 
above instrument was owned by my friend, 
John Harman, he became as much of a ben- 
efactor and favorite by lending it to one and 
another, both men and women, as if he could 
have "touched" successfully "for the king's 
evil." Its fame spread even beyond the pre- 
cincts, for it seemed it was almost unheard-of 
on the island. By loaning it to one family and 
another he secured the most flattering invita- 
tions for himself and a friend or two to dinner 
and tea, in many of which I participated. The 
inestimable treasure has, I believe, been finally 
presented to some favored damsel. 

From a merchant, with whom I have become 
acquainted, I have received an offer of employ- 
ment upon favorable terms, and with good 
prospects for the future ; but the spirit of wan- 
dering is upon pie, and I decline. Already I 



A GOOD OFFER. 171 

am tired of delaying upon the Isle of France, 
and am anxiously looking for an opportunity 
to pursue the voyage to Australia. 

26th. — My anticipations are realized, and 
that in the most unexpected manner. Mr. 
Werihe, of the house of Francis and Co., on 
the island, is found to be a relative of Clark, 
and the knowledge has called forth his sympa- 
thy and benevolence on our behalf. He offers 
to pay for the passage to Australia for two or 
three of us, and we gladly accept the offer, and 
shall therefore leave forever our ship Peytona, 
and embark on the brig Nautilus, Captain 
Scott, of two hundred tuns, bound for Mel- 
bourne with a cargo of sugar. 

28th. — Once more on the waters. We did 
not look at our accommodations in advance, 
considering the trip as merely the fulfillment 
of our "manifest destiny;" and it may not be 
surprising, perhaps, that we find it a rickety, 
dilapidated "sugar box," filled to its utmost 
capacity. Twenty-four of us are stowed in 
the hold, where a room has been arranged, 



172 ACCOMMODATIONS OF THE BRIG. 

walled up to the deck with bags of sugar and 
casks of liquor cases, having no entrance ex- 
cept through the main hatch. Here we are to 
sit all day, if we choose, and lie all night, hav- 
ing particularly sweet rest, if the material of 
the bed has any thing to do with it. 

We are to cook for ourselves, taking turns 
with the little Creole boy, who is waiter, stew- 
ard, and cabin boy, for captain and officers, 
beside being cook for the vessel's crew. 

September 18th. — It is generally agreed by 
us, that this voyage is more dangerous, if possi- 
ble, than that on the Peytona ; perhaps a 
trifle less disagreeable. "We have, thus far, had 
a succession of gales, that have kept us nearly 
all the time under double-reefed and close- 
reefed top-sails, and, together with our cramped 
and comfortless situation, have quite put an 
end to my writing for a time. 

Drunkenness is the order of things here 
also. The captain, suspecting the sailors of 
furnishing themselves from the wrong source, 
held an investigation of the matter, whereupon 
the " dumb mouths " of his empty bottles told 



JOHN BULL. 173 

! 

a conclusive story. Upon this he summoned 
all hands upon the quarter-deck, read to the 
culprits the severe provisions of the English 
law relative to stealing on shipboard, and 
briefly proposed the alternative of settling the 
matter by paying for the missing brandy at 
retail rates, or awaiting the course of the law. 

Upon consultation they paid the amount 
demanded ; but these seamen are a jovial, 
shrewd company — constantly leaguing to- 
gether in the accomplishment of some act of 
roguery. They know enough to avoid dissen- 
sion among themselves ; are friendly and help- 
ful ; have plenty of money, and abound beyond 
measure in songs and anecdotes, with which 
they beguile many an idle hour. The Eng- 
lishman with us is one of those who was con- 
tinually irritating our national pride on the 
- Peytona with the most odious kind of com- 
parisons; constantly referring to the superior 
accommodations, provisions, and regulations on 
"Henglish vessels;" daily vexing our hearts 
with remarks upon the innumerable evils of 
our lot, as if they were not sufficient of them- 
selves, Without being magnified. 
15* 



174 ' UNPALATABLE FOOD. 

But here we are on an English vessel. We 
had no very definite expectations, perhaps, but 
certainly some indistinct ideas of good treat- 
ment and decent food; but our "grub" on the 
Peytona was really almost "first-class-hotel" 
fare, compared with this. Our bread is the 
worst sort of "English tile," that might be 
worked into boiler plates for hardness. The 
worst of the Peytona's beef, ill-smelling as it 
was, and requiring diligent and faithful masti- 
cation, could yet be eaten ; but here it is soft 
and sickening, from miserable putrefaction. 

Our tea, as the seamen say, — and they are 
competent judges, — is not a Chinese, but an 
Australian product; a bogus article, manufac- 
tured from the leaves of some of the fragrant 
shrubs there, and the taste is such as to con- 
vince me of the truth of the story. 

Our water is kept in a large iron tank, and 
is as yellow as gold with iron-rust, besides being 
strongly impregnated with coal tar. 

The mixture of pain and joy which Perrin, 
" the old man," extracts from this " bill of fare," 
is exceedingly comical. Holding up a soft lump 
of the putrefying substance, he exclaims with 



THE ENGLISHMAN TAUNTED. 175 

a doleful groan, " dear, boys, have we got to 
eat such stuff as this?" "Yes," I reply; "no 
other way ; down with it ! " at the same time 
disposing of a piece of the same by the help 
of a morsel of bread, like a scrap of a cast-iron 
kettle, or next to it. With another look of 
utter misery, he turns with bitter irony to the 
unlucky Englishman, and continues, "0, no, 
this ain't bad beef! We're aboard an English 
vessel now, where they do things up in good 
style, serving out the best meat, and first-quality 
of bread, always. It's done accordin' to law." 

Thus he torments the poor fellow, who is 
silent with shame, taking special delight in 
gratifying his revenge upon this reviler of 
American laws and customs. 

These incessant taunts have driven him to 
the captain, to whom he has cited the text of 
the English statutes, frightening him into so 
much improvement that he has weighed out to. 
us a comparatively fair week's allowance of 
endurable food. I have one secret source of 
consolation myself, which I take the liberty of 
keeping private ; since discovery must neces- 
sarily deprive me of it. 



176 A LUCKY FELLOW. 

It has availed to lighten somewhat the hor- 
rors of my individual lot ; while my comrades 
innocently wonder at the patience with which 
I possess my soul, under our unjust treatment. 
This consolation is derived from a confidential 
and not wholly disinterested friendship, which 
I have managed to form with the over-worked 
little Creole cook. He is wanted all day long 
in, at least, two places at once, and finds a hard 
time in running of errands for the officers, 
cooking for passengers, and preparing the vi- 
ands of the cabin mess in a manner satisfactory 
to the palates of the commander and his mates. 

I have installed myself as " cook-substitute " 
to this young dignitary, and while watching 
the savory messes of meats, vegetables, &c, I 
abstract now and then some "unconsidered 
trifle," which, of course, is only wages for work 
done, but an unspeakable comfort to me. 

October 3d. — Gales and cold weather have 
been the characteristics of our voyage. Yes- 
terday, at 8 A. M., we made Cape Otway, and 
at 7 P. M. saw the lighthouse at the Heads. 
This morning we passed between the bold and 



AT ANCHOR. 177 

lofty points called the Heads of Port Philip 
Bay, and are now anchored at its upper ex- 
tremity, opposite Sandridge, a miserable vil- 
lage near the shore, two miles from Melbourne 
by a direct road through swamps and heavy 
sands. It is nine miles to the city by the Eiver 
Yarra Yarra, on which it is situated, and 
which sweeps around in a semicircle, from the 
city to the bay. Many ships are constantly 
arriving and departing to and from all parts 
of the world. Nearly a thousand sail are now 
anchored in the bay. 

4th. — This morning no breakfast was served 
out to us ; the ship having brought us to Mel- 
bourne, according to the spirit of the nautical 
contract, and owed us a living no longer. We 
took the hint, paid a boatman one pound to 
put us ashore — a true-gold-country price for a 
few rods of boating ; but we did not grudge 
it, although it took almost our last farthing to 
place our feet on land once more. We packed 
our portable property, hired a dray for the 
heavy baggage, to transport us to the borders 
of Canvas-town, a distance of two miles, 



178 CAMPING OUT. 

where poor or transient persons are permitted 
to erect tents on a piece of land belonging to 
government, for small rents. 

We have arrived just at the close of the 
rainy season, and find the weather exceedingly 
unpleasant. We have erected a temporary 
shelter, on sloping ground, close under the 
wall of the Park, having no fuel but such as 
we can pick up about us. We have bought a 
little flour and a little mutton, purposing only 
to stay until we can obtain direct and relia- 
ble information concerning mining operations, 
which we are anxious to commence. 



CHAPTER IX. 

STAY AT CANVAS-TOWN. — JOURNEY TO BALLERAT. — 
PURCHASE OF A CLAIM. — EXPERIENCE IN THE MINES. 
— DISAPPOINTMENT OF THE WARDY-ALLOCK EXPE- 
DITION. — RETURN TO BALLERAT. 

25th. — Having spent about two weeks in 
Canvas-town gaining information from differ- 
ent individuals, which was a contradictory 
mass of advice, as might be supposed, and 
having disposed of nearly all our scanty jew- 
elry and hardware in the purchase of pro- 
visions, we decided to proceed to Ballerat, as 
being the deepest and richest mines, and 
therefore likely to afford us the more abun- 
dant remuneration. I sold my watch for 
seven pounds, and, with one or two trifling 
additions which we succeeded in raising, we 
obtained the needed outfit for miners, and 
had a few dollars remaining. 

We left our place of abode early in the 

(179) 



180 JOURNEYING TO THE MINES. 

morning, taking care that no one should be 
acquainted with our intention before the time, 
as we had often seen the tax-gathering gentry 
pacing up and down for the revenues of the 
British crown, and our lank purses feared their 
visits. 

Ballerat is about a hundred miles from 
Melbourne, west of north; and Geelong, on 
an arm of the bay, forty miles ; but the road 
from the latter being much the best, and the 
usual route to the " diggings," we decided to 
take it, and embarked on a steamer, which 
we found to be none other than the identical 
Duncan Hoyle, which we had spoken seven 
months before while crossing the line, in the 
Atlantic, and whose half- wrecked appearance 
had created some solicitude in the minds of 
many. She had been dismantled and refitted, 
and was now plying regularly between Mel- 
bourne and Geelong. 

Upon arriving at the latter place, no drays 
were ready, and we prepared to encamp out- 
side the town on the wet ground. A Scotch 
family, whose residence was but a few rods 
distant, sent us some hot tea, and an invita- 



YANKEE GIRLS. 181 

tion to spend the night with them, which we 
accepted most thankfully. Here we had a 
sumptuous repast of various savory viands, 
especially those pleasant, fragile cakes, which 
an old friend of mine in New England, 
significantly, if not sanctimoniously, calls 
" Vanity." 

Our host was young, intelligent, full of 
spirit and good nature, and evidently enjoyed 
life with a keen zest. He had made consider- 
able money in " smuggling," under the absurd 
English system of high duties and a protective 
force, but, a year or two before our visit, had 
been detected, imprisoned, tried, and con- 
demned ; paid his fine of two thousand pounds, 
and was living comfortably on the remainder. 

We joined ourselves to a party of fifteen 
Americans, or, as the English call every body 
from Anglo-Saxon America, "Yankees," who 
had overtaken us on their way to the mines. 
Two of the men were accompanied by their 
wives, Boston girls, one not twenty years of 
age, who were too spirited to let their hus- 
bands go even to Australia without them. 

Being disappointed in finding conveyances, 
16 



182 HARD TRAVELING. 

as they had expected, they resolutely prepared 
to walk. Two drays, whose drivers were ac- 
quainted with the route, and could serve as 
guides, were employed to transport the pro- 
visions and baggage of the party. The first 
day we traveled eighteen miles over hills and 
through valleys, in mud and water for miles 
together. The ladies endured the fatigue 
wonderfully, although one of them had her 
feet so blistered as to make it doubtful wheth- 
er she could proceed. We camped on the 
brow of a high hill, on a spot of dry ground, 
and thought ourselves too much exhausted to 
eat. After a little rest, however, we made a 
large fire, boiled our tea, and cooked our mut- 
ton, and with dry bread made a meal that 
would have satisfied an epicure, — if he had 
done our day's work. 

Clark, who seemed to think that in Aus- 
tralia there must needs be gold in every 
stream, would not be dissuaded from surveying 
the wet valley below. With shovel in hand, 
he repaired to the bank of a small river, and 
spent an hour in the mud, with as much 
chance of success as he would have had in a 



CONTRADICTORY OPINIONS OF THE MINERS. 183 

bushel of Connecticut clay, and came up again 
to find himself the subject of ridicule. 

At sunset the next day we were twenty- 
five miles further on our way, having come 
through open Australian forests, many trees 
of which were covered with blossoms, and 
vocal with the everlasting chatter of numer- 
ous parrots of a variety of colors. We saw 
also several of the beautiful u birds of para- 
dise " and mocking birds. 

No man can ever know the perfect relish 
of food and drink, or the perfect sweetness of 
sleep, until he takes them after a day's weary 
walking, in the open air, by the light and 
warmth of the blazing camp-fire. 

Toward the close of our journey we met 
several returning from the mines. The inva- 
riable greeting here is, " Well ! mate ! " and 
a chat commences at once, by an exchange 
of data as to destination, starting place, &c. 
Those who have been unfortunate speak dis- 
couragingly of matters in the mines ; others 
give a glowing account, and are strong in the 
assurance one may be rich if he will — a state- 
ment pleasant to believe, by those walking in 
the vale of poverty. 



184 DISCOURAGING PROSPECTS. 

We entered the u city of Ballerat " through 
a valley running northward between two hills, 
called " Yankee Gully/' which opens out into 
a comparatively level space, called the " Flat." 
This and the hills around are dotted with the 
homes of miners. We came to Ballerat for 
the very reason the mines were the deepest ; 
but on the very first sight of the shafts, into 
which we looked with anxious curiosity, we 
felt it to be a most discouraging spectacle. 
Some of the pits are a hundred and fifty feet 
deep, stretching down into impenetrable dark- 
ness. A clumsy wooden frame carries an axle 
and two cranks, at which a couple of weary, 
forbidding-looking creatures slowly turn to 
raise the bucket of earth, water, or mud from 
which they hope to extract the shining parti- 
cles which will compensate for their hard la- 
bor. Meanwhile their comrades are at work 
by lamplight below. 

"Have we got to work in such places?" 
groaned Perrin, with a most disconsolate look. 
" Why, how did you suppose it was done ? " 
I inquired. a Well, by sorting over the gravel, 
and picking out the lumps of gold." So far 



SEVERE LAWS. 185 

from such a prospect, I think it will be real- 
izing the truth of the old proverb to its fullest 
extent — " Whosoever will find gold must %." 

28th. — There are said to be about twenty 
thousand souls in this place or about it, all 
striving and hoping to amass a handsome pile 
of the golden ore. 

Our first object was to proceed to the camp 
of the English commissioner for license, hav- 
ing been informed that the regulations were 
very severe ; so much so, that any one remain- 
ing in Ballerat over a certain length of time, 
without a license, was liable to a heavy fine, 
imprisonment, or to be put to work on the 
public roads. We found him a middle aged, 
good-natured man, but not deficient in the 
inexorable rigidity seemingly requisite for an 
English official. To our statement that we 
had hardly sufficient in our pockets to provide 
food for our daily necessities, he listened civil- 
ly, and replied briefly, that any modification 
of the law was impossible. Finding that nei- 
ther argument nor entreaty availed any thing, 
we promised ten dollars each for a printed 
16* 



186 CAMP GROUND. 

license, which would give us permission to 
work fifteen days in one month, and the whole 
of another. 

Having passed this disagreeable ordeal, the 
next thought was a place of residence. From 
the commissioner's camp ground we had a view 
of nearly all the Flat and the slopes around it. 
Below was the " city," a collection of white 
tents, over which were waving flags of various 
nations — the signs of the merchants in many 
instances. These are displayed upon tall 
poles, and make a brilliant display, some of 
them being quite magnificent in proportion 
and design. 

We were surprised to see the "stars and 
stripes" outnumbering the banners of any 
other nation; indeed, Ballerat may almost be 
called an American settlement, . so numerous 
are the Yankees. We have decided to en- 
camp somewhere in the suburbs, rather than 
in the business neighborhood, and accordingly 
turned our attention to the brow of Black 
Hill, where the trees offer their grateful shade, 
and the crest of the hill will defend us from 
the wind, at least in one quarter. 



BALLERAT BANK. 187 

29th. — We have planted ourselves, unmo- 
lested, upon the proposed spot ; have stretched 
a tent-pole between two trees, thrown a cloth 
over it, and deposited within our scanty chat- 
tels, thus establishing ourselves in house-keep- 
ing in our own private mansion. Finding 
advice from miners of little account, we de- 
termined to proceed to operations in our own 
way. Clark and Perrin were bent upon sinking 
a shaft near our tent ; but, thinking them fool- 
ish, I shouldered my tools and went to the 
top of the hill, known as " Ballerat Bank," as 
an industrious miner is almost always sure 
of moderate wages from its vault of dust. 
Things I must confess, appear rather dubious, 
for it seems like working only to be tantalized 
with the sight of immovable rock, that has 
stood, strata underlying strata, since the world 
began, and with a fair prospect of remaining 
till the end of time, despite the efforts of puny 
man, who would fain turn them over to see 
if gold lies at. the bottom. 

November 5th. — Having labored upon the 
hill two or three days with no success, I aban- 



188 OUR SUCCESS. 

doned the project as hopeless, and turned to 
a deserted pit at some distance. Around the 
sides and bottom of this I did better, being 
able, at the close of the first day, to show sev- 
eral dollars of the dull-yellow grains, which I 
had extracted from earth almost as hard as 
stone. Upon this my two partners deserted ! 
their shaft, now about twenty feet deep, and 
entered the cave with me; where we made 
fair wages, accumulating several ounces in a 
little time. Some Yankees from below, hear- s 
ing of our success, and supposing we were . 
among the "lucky ones," bound to succeed, |; 
invited us to come among the aristocracy of |c 
the Flat ; that is, those who had sufficient capi- \: 
tal to enable them to sink a shaft. 

Being somewhat elated by our recent gains, 
we yielded to their solicitations, and organized 
a party, staking out a claim of legal dimen- 
sions, — twelve feet square, — among the dig- 
gings on Ballerat Flat. 

The gold lies in a very crooked gutter, a 
parently the bed of an ancient stream, fro 
fifty to a hundred feet below the present level 
Thus, by a vast expenditure of labor, as uncer- 1 



JEALOUSY OF THE MINERS. 189 

tain of reward as a lottery, the course of the 
gold has been traced upward until particles 
were no longer found grouped together, but 
scattered too thinly to pay for mining. The 
same has been done in the opposite direction. 
The gold is usually found in a thin stratum of 
gravel, below the white layer, called the " pipe 
clay," lying upon the living rock. 

Some, in commencing the year with a for- 
tune, have lost it before its close in sinking 
pits to no purpose. If a claim is successful, 
every inch of ground around it is instantly 
taken up, and a ring of shafts sunk, in the 
hope of obtaining vast quantities of the ore. 
As these go down, the jealous miners quarrel 
and fight over fancied encroachments, and the 
commissioner — the authority in all such cases 
— has to measure the precious earth over and 
over again. No one group of shafts can be 
carried down faster than another without drain- 
ing them ; and as most are too selfish to aid 
others, they have to proceed with about the 
same degree of rapidity. Probably not more 
than one shaft in four, certainly, pays any 
thing at all. 



190 FATAL ACCIDENTS. 

December 23d. — The life I have led for 
some time past being unfavorable to journal- 
izing, I have dispensed with it altogether ; and 
now, in a season of comparative quiet, I pro- 
pose to review these past scenes and varied 
experiences. 

The claim which we opened proving very 
wet, we gave it up after sinking it a few feet, 
and selected another in a dry spot, further 
down the valley. Having carried this down as 
far as practicable, without siding, we made an 
expedition into the woods for the purpose of 
obtaining material requisite for the purpose. 
This is necessary for the safety of the miners, 
as well as for excluding water. The Flat 
abounds in quicksands and singular subterra- 
nean collections of water, which often burst 
suddenly upon the workmen while under 
ground, and in spite of all their efforts at pro- 
tection are almost certainly fatal. Many such 
accidents occurred to our knowledge, by one 
of which seven men lost their lives at once. 
Some of the bodies were never recovered, 
remaining buried near the treasures they had 
sought. Others rose to the surface of the 



OPERATIONS SUDDENLY STOPPED. 191 

blue-pit water, and were wrapped either in 
their tent cloth or bed clothes, and buried in 
the " Potter's Field/' a place serving as a rude 
cemetery for the city. 

The woods near Ballerat have been so 
thoroughly searched for suitable trees, that we 
traveled two miles before finding one. The 
gum trees, of which there are several varieties, 
are the principal timber trees of Australia. 
Almost all the trees of the country are trav- 
ersed throughout their substance by irregular 
knots and veins of gum ; most plentiful and 
troublesome, however, in the gum trees proper, 
which are sometimes so hard as almost to 
blunt iron instruments. When we had nearly 
completed our operations, Clark, our chief reli- 
ance in the mechanical department, struck an 
unlucky blow with his ax ; the heavy blade 
glanced, and struck deep into his foot. 

We bandaged it with handkerchiefs ; formed 
a rough litter, and transported our unlucky 
mate to our tent on the brow of the hill ; sent 
for a physician, who gave us very little conso- 
lation in saying that he would be laid aside, at 
least, three months. We could not prosecute 



192 GOLD HILL. 

our efforts farther, as neither of us could fill 
his place, and we therefore concluded to retreat 
and make another attempt, as no time was to 
be lost. We went up and down the neighbor- 
hood, in wet places and in dry ; sometimes in 
our old cavern in Ballerat Bank, and sometimes 
in old claims on the Flat. 

I spent several profitable and exceedingly 
perilous days in Gold Hill, so called, where I 
descended some fifteen or twenty feet through 
an old shaft, and found myself amid darkness 
so profound that I could do nothing, till my 
eyes became accustomed to the fearful gloom. 
Then, with such a scanty light as I could strike 
up, I went creeping about, hither and thither, 
in the vast cavernous regions, sometimes twenty- 
five feet in hight, and again so low, one could 
only work his way with great difficulty. It 
has been gradually worked out above the gold- 
bearing strata, and is supported by earthy pil- 
lars, cut away to a size as slender as fear of 
instant death would allow. Here and there, 
as I dared I broke pieces from the portion 
of earth which formed the basis of these pil- 
lars, crushed them in my hands, extracting 



ANOTHER JOURNEY. 193 

the precious grains as the rich reward of my 
courage. 

While at work afterward in the yellow, 
muddy water of Ballerat Creek, washing the 
gravelly portion which the miners had washed 
before me, I fell in with a young fellow named 
Fessenden, pursuing the same elegant occupa- 
tion as myself. In the course of conversation 
he told me of his desire to visit certain new 
openings on the Wardy-allock stream, about 
twenty miles distant. Before we parted, we 
entered into an agreement to start together in 
quest of a richer mine. 

Providing myself with provisions and tools, 
and having notified Perrin of my intention, 
and placed Clark and the household under his 
charge until my return, we set off next morn- 
ing on foot. After a toilsome march over a 
very mpuntainous and difficult road, we found 
ourselves at the creek, in a small ravine or 
"canon" among the mountain defiles, not far 
from the great, unexplored, interior desert, and 
full sixty-five miles from Ballerat, instead of 
twenty. About a hundred persons were gath- 
ered there, but to our inexpressible chagrin, 
17 



194 EXPLORATIONS. 

we found there was no gold worth gathering. 
A few shepherds, who had remained there 
through the rainy season, had found a scanty 
deposit in a ravine, the exaggerated fame of 
which had drawn many to the spot only to be 
deceived. Such reports are purposely circu- 
lated by the traders, who make a good specula- 
tion from the needs of the improvident and 
humbugged people whom they cheat into their 
neighborhood. As a general thing, provisions 
are only provided for the journey, and this 
being three times as long as is expected, they 
are compelled to repair to the shops to obtain 
necessities, on their arrival. 

Having no particular engagement, Fessenden 
and myself agreed to take advantage of the 
trip into the remote and almost unexplored 
neighborhood, to ramble about in the solitudes 
of the Australian forests. Among these wild 
ranges of rough and wooded hills there are no 
inhabitants, not even u natives," and the kanga- 
roos sport at pleasure. Of these there are 
different species, some being no larger than a 
dog ; others as large in size as a man. 

After some days of this desultory wandering, 



FRUITLESS EXPEDITION. 195 

we bethought ourselves of the land we had left, 
and sought to regain it in the same manner 
we had come — mi foot. We had seen the 
country, but made no money, and contracted 
severe colds, which made us well nigh sick ; 
having had no covering except the rude boughs 
which constituted our wigwam, and through 
which the rain poured more copiously than 
we could have wished. We started at early 
morn, and followed a route of our own selec- 
tion, which we judged would bring us over the 
skirts of Mount Mercy into a direct path. 

The sun was not visible ; we had no com- 
pass ; and the result of our experiment was, 
that after crossing an infinite variety of hills, 
ravines, swamps, thickets, and woods, we met 
two men, whom we recognized as friends irr 
the place from whence we had escaped. We 
inquired, with surprise, how they came to be 
traveling from the direction of Ballerat, and 
in reply found, to our greater astonishment, 
that it was ourselves in that course, being 
only two miles from Wardy-allock diggings, 
with a prospect of reaching them. We had 
been turned about in the woods, and made 



196 RETURN TO BALLERAT. 

almost a complete circle. Desirous of avoid- 
ing the awkward inquiries we knew must 
await us if we went forward, we at once 
turned our steps, and late at night encamped 
on the verge of the Australian desert, under 
a gum tree. In the distance we discerned the 
ungainly mass of Mount Elephant, and the stock 
road to Adelaide, leading across the plain. * 

On the morning of the fourth day we 
reached Ballerat, in no wise richer than when 
we went ; but I found, to my pleasurable sur- 
prise, that Clark's foot had entirely healed in 
my absence, and that he was able to walk 
nearly as well as ever. Perrin had paid ex- 
penses by collecting grains of gold, and by 
adventures in his profession of peddling, and 
besides had done considerable business as a 
sort of commission agent, by procuring for his 
customers any commodity they might desire. 
His stock consisted usually of silk dresses and 
ladies' shoes — articles that, it would seem, 
would find rather a dull market in a community 
of miners; but there were thousands of women, 
a large proportion of whom were profuse in ex- 
penditures for dress. Our party of three being 



PLEASANT SURPRISE. 197 

now reunited, it again became a matter of 
serious consultation as to the best method of 
pushing our fortunes. Thus far we had done 
but little more than to gain our bare subsist- 
ence. While wandering rather disconsolately 
about Ballerat Flat, considering the question, 
I saw, at a little distance before me, a tall 
figure, which I thought I recognized as a 
fellow-townsman ; and, upon approaching near- 
er, discovered, to my delight, that the well- 
proportioned figure and fine features were 
none other than those of Captain W., who 
had come out to Australia with a heavy in- 
voice of Colt's revolvers. He had tried in 
vain to effect sales in Melbourne, and had 
come to the mines hoping to find private sales, 
but was disappointed at every point, the mar- 
ket being forestalled by clumsy English arms. 

I forgot for a time my distress, in the 
pleasure of hearing of matters and things at 
home ; but once again alone, necessity pressed 
itself upon me ; and we determined to put up 
a canvas house, obtain a stock of goods, and 
try the mercantile business. As we were 
about negotiating for the same, down came 
17* 



198 GOING INTO THE COFFIN BUSINESS. 

the " fifty-pound license law " upon us, effectu- 
ally dampening our ardor in this direction, for 
we had scarcely this sum among us all. At 
this juncture, I suddenly recollected there was 
not in the whole city of Ballerat, to my knowl- 
edge, a single undertaker or coffin maker, 
while deaths were of daily occurrence. The 
thing was decided at once. Undertakers would 
have no license . to pay ; and we immediately 
sent for lumber from Melbourne; threw out 
a sepulchral-looking white flag to the breeze, 
upon which was displayed a black coffin, form- 
ing a striking contrast to the gay streamers all 
about it. The day after this we had an order 
from the friends of a New England man, but 
could only meet it by buying some old shelves 
of a dry goods store at half a dollar the run- 
ning foot. Not long after, the lumber came 
from Melbourne, at twenty-five cents a foot, 
and twenty-five dollars cartage for a dray load. 
We have averaged one coffin a day at prices 
from eight pounds to seventeen, which latter 
were finished in English style. 

Deaths in Ballerat are almost all from acci- 
dent or dysentery. Fevers are almost un- 



HOUSEKEEPING. 199 

known in the pure and bracing air of Australia. 
The former disease is doubtless induced by the 
bad water which all are obliged to use. The 
majority are in the habit of supplying them- 
selves from the yellow, muddy creek, or the 
blue water of the old shafts. The more par- 
ticular bring what they use from the singular 
" lagoons," as they are called, that are fre- 
quently found in the vicinity on the tops of 
high hills, about a mile from our abode. 

How refreshing would be a draught of our 
good old New England streams, that come 
trickling down the mountain sides, mirroring 
the trees and flowers on their banks in their 
transparent bosoms ! 

The duties of housekeeping, which devolve 
mainly upon me, together with those of my 
business, keep my time occupied through the 
day. I think I shall be prepared to appreciate, 
very sensibly, the labors of faithful housewives, 
though the well-appointed machinery, the full 
storeroom and larders which they deem so ne- 
cessary to their comfort and convenience, make 
it vastly easier than the rude implements of 
our wigwam, and scanty materials for cooking. 



CHAPTER X. 

ADVENTURES IN BALLERAT. — VISIT CRESWICK CREEK. 
— POWER OF KINDNESS OVER CONVICTS. — WALKING 
LEAVES. — LEAVE BALLERAT FOR CALLAO. — HISTORY 
OF AUSTRALIA. 

The great desideratum of all travelers who 
are wealthy enough to pay large prices every 
* where, both by land and sea, is fresh pro- 
visions. We had not the "available substance," 
and besides, we had seen the time when money 
could not have procured for us the " nutritious 
elements " as we desired, had we been able to 
offer it ever so lavishly. In default of these 
things, we found vinegar, or any thing made 
with it, was eaten with a relish almost like that 
induced by famine, and Vas invaluable as op- 
posing the evil effects of long-continued salt diet. 
Having gathered some experience on this point, 
one of my first undertakings, upon establish- 
ing myself at Ballerat, was to set up a vinegar 

(200) 



HOP BEER. 201 

yard — not a large piece of ground, with long 
rows of casks, but merely and singly an old 
bottle, into which I put tea leaves and coffee 
grounds, filled it with sweetened water, and 
hung it upon one of the trees about our home, 
where it might be exposed to the sun. In 
three or four days I had a bottle of clear and 
sharp vinegar, which was used with the great- 
est appreciation, not only at our own table, but 
at those of others, whom I occasionally favored 
with a sour gift. Another successful enterprise 
was the making of hop beer. Perrin, in some 
of his wanderings or commission errands, dis- 
covered a small quantity of hops, sent up on 
commission, and for which there seemed no 
possible use. These I eagerly procured — boiled 
them, " using my judgment," as women say, in 
the quantity of water, &c., but was utterly at 
a loss for appropriate flavor. As an experi- 
ment, I threw in a quantity of ginger and 
cayenne pepper ; dissolved separately two 
ounces of soda, and one of cream tartar, stir- 
ring in first the alkali and then the acid ; and 
strange as it may seem, in a day or two it be- 
came a perfect nectar, for excellence. The 



202 AN ACQUISITION. 

pepper, about which I had many misgivings, 
was the perfect "arcanum" of its glory. We 
drank moderately ourselves, and now and then 
presented a bottle to some lady, or particular 
friend, with a feeling of generosity such as 
Prince Metternich might experience in sending 
a dozen of real-Johannisbergs to an intimate 
autocrat. In truth, it was even more choice, 
for the water at Ballerat could scarcely be 
drank at all, without being boiled into tea or 
coffee, and even then it was poor enough. 

The keen, Yankee inquisitiveness of Perrin 
was often of great service to me. u Grand news 
I have brought to you," said he, one day, which 
turned out to be, that a quarter cask of Indian 
meal was to be found at a certain grocery. All 
my New England remembrances came upon 
me, from the dear delights of hearthstone and 
friends, down to Johnny cake and Indian pud- 
ding. Chiefly stimulated by animal considera- 
tions, however, I repaired at once to the spot, 
saw the treasure as it had been described, in- 
quired about it, carelessly and in an indifferent 
manner, bought it for a mere song, and bore it 
home in triumph. 



HIGH PRICES. 203 

It had come thither no one knew exactly 
how, had stood no one knew how long, having 
escaped the eyes of the Yankees, and no one 
else knew how to use it. It was, indeed, some- 
what mingled with moth webs, but it was, 
nevertheless, a magnificent discovery to us, 
and a most welcome change. 

Provisions of every description are at " gold 
prices" at Ballerat — flour, sixty dollars a bar- 
rel ; pies, one dollar each ; eggs, half a dollar 
singly, and other things in proportion ; vegeta- 
bles are particularly scarce and costly. 

Longing one day for something that came 
from the earth, I went in search of some greens. 
I succeeded to my great satisfaction, bringing 
home a good bag of common dock; which I 
boiled, salted, buttered, vinegared, and pep- 
pered, — producing a dish, as we thought, wor- 
thy a king. Clark, however, like an obstinate 
fellow, insisted that the "royal mess" might be 
poisonous, -and therefore refused to taste it; 
but knowing that his scruples would only be 
our gain, we exhorted him but little. I at 
once communicated the knowledge to my 
neighbors ; from which time, the dock-digging 



204 CHRISTMAS REJOICINGS. 

business was so strenuously prosecuted as en- 
tirely to extirpate the weed for a considerable 
distance round. 

29th. Christmas day was observed as one 
of general jubilee, especially by the English, 
whom I have every where observed to enjoy 
their national holidays to the utmost, wherever I 
they may be, especially if the rough side of I 
life be their daily lot. For two whole days 
work was superseded, and low and uproarious | 
proceedings, by way of rejoicing, were seen in 11 
every part of the city. There is no lack of 
places of amusement, many of the largest tents 
being exclusively ball and concert rooms. My 
own part of the "celebration" consisted of a 
pleasant interview with Mrs. Haynes, a particu- 
lar friend, and a dinner of the combined na- 
tionalities of baked beans and plum pudding. 
I attended divine service, and while rambling 
through the streets afterward, I was hailed 
from one of the tents with "Well, mate !" in a 
sharp, decided voice. 

On looking around me, I discovered that 1 1 
had been addressed by an Australian magpie, f 






VIOLENT HURRICANE. 205 

a black and white bird very nearly resembling 
a bobolink, and having a capacity for distinct 
articulation far surpassing the parrot. "Well 
mate/' cried the saucy bird again, as I turned 
and approached its cage, adding, with profane 

emphasis, * 0, you d d fool 1" I left, but he 

shouted after me in triumph, with the same pro- 
fane expressions, till I was quite out of hearing. 
A fearful hurricane of hot wind has swept over 
us, so strong and stifling as entirely to prevent 
w T ork in the open air for a time. I was sitting 
at my tent door when the heavy black clouds 
arose. They swept down from the mountains, 
coming near the earth, seemingly encircled 
with a wreath of fire, that looked more like a 
conflagration than electricity ; so hot and load- 
ed with sand, we were forced to cover our 
faces in our bed clothes till the strength of the 
blast was spent. All day long this state of 
things continued, though with intervals of 
calm, making breathing almost misery. A few 
days of such burning sirocco would destroy 
the whole city. As it is, many of the frail 
edifices of the miners are among the things 
that were, but are not. Nearly fifty tents were 
18 



206 SPECULATIONS ON THE SIROCCO. 

torn up and blown away during the day ; some 
of them so suddenly that the surprised inmates 
were left seated at their tables in the open air. 

Our own was only preserved stationary by 
means of ropes thrown over and attached to 
piles of lumber on either side. The storm has 
swept wide, leaving a broad path of desolate 
blackness behind it. No one is able to speak 
satisfactorily of the origin and nature of these 
destructive tornadoes. Some affirm that it 
comes, bearing heat and fire from some burn- 
ing forest at a distance. 

Others say the qualities are electrical only, 
and that the storm was generated somewhere 
within the unknown depths of the great inte- 
rior desert; but the mysterious and wisely- 
regulated laws of the great forces of nature 
are poorly understood by us in our ignorance. 

Man may create ingenious theories, specu- 
late and wonder, and only come at last to see 
that it is pitiable folly. 

January 6th, 1854. — Times growing rather 
dull, and Clark and myself being weary of such 
a monotonous life in one place, we started for 



TREES OF AUSTRALIA. 207 

Creswick Creek, about fourteen miles distant 
from Yankee Hill. The walk was exceedingly 
pleasant over gently-undulating ground, and 
through forests, most of which are compara- 
tively open and pleasant. All the Australian 
trees are evergreen ; a large proportion, how- 
ever, undergoing a sort of equivalent annual 
change in shedding their bark. Nearly all the 
leaves are lanceolated with slight variations, 
and although, in general, they are set very 
thickly upon the tree, they yet offer little 
shade, as they stand edgewise, and therefore 
oppose only the thickness of the leaf to the 
rays of the sun. 

A singular and frequent shrub in swamps 
and low grounds is the grass tree, which con- 
sists of a radiating bunch of leaves like a 
coarse grass, from the midst of which rises a 
straight, woody stem, five or six feet in height, 
surmounted with a hard, close head, resembling 
the New England " cat-tail." 

We arrived at Creswick about sunset, and 
camped in sight of the diggings. At a small 
trading stand where I went to purchase some 
provisions, I met an old man, who, with some 



208 THE CONVICTS. 

of his boon companions, was sipping the in- 
toxicating cup. I fell into conversation with 
him, and found him to be a * lag/' or convict 
transported from England. Although some- 
what elevated with drink, he yet conversed 
shrewdly, and I soon became interested in him 
and his fortunes. He offered me a home in 
his tent, and freedom to draw from his well- 
filled purse, as I might need. This confidence, 
touching and unlimited, was gained simply by 
the power of kindness, by treating him as a ! 
friend, instead of showing contempt for the 
convict. I doubt not there are many, among 
the numerous convict population, who, by kind 
and humane treatment, might be reformed, 
and become useful citizens. 

They possess many good qualities, are open- 
hearted, boundlessly generous among them- 
selves and those whom they recognize as 
friends, but hopeless, reckless, and dangerous 
while treated continually as criminals and out- 
casts. Returning to my tent one evening, I 
found, under one of the trees near, a woman 
apparently about forty years of age, smoking. 
I gave her a civil salutation, conversed with her 



TOUCHING INSTANCE OF GRATITUDE. 209 

a few moments, and went my way. About mid- 
night she came to the tent, put her head in- 
side, and asked, " Is the laddie here who spoke 
so kindly to me to-night ? " * Yes," I replied. 
" Well ! bless his kind heart," said she, " I have 
come here to thank him for the kind words he 
spoke. They were the first I have heard for 
many a long year. I came in the night for 
fear the police would take me. I'm a poor 
creature. Once I was a happy woman; but I 
did wrong, and they sent me away with the 
worst of rogues, and now I am as bad as any 
of them. God bless you, my sweet laddie, and 
keep you from leading such a miserable life." 
I scarcely knew what reply to make to this 
outpouring of thankfulness from the unhappy 
being, but offered a few words more to cheer 
her troubled spirit. At two o'clock the next 
night she came again, with a bottle of brandy 
as a present to her " laddie." I conversed with 
her for a short time, when she departed for 
fear of recognition by the police, and I never 
saw her more. Scarcely any thing is more 
powerful among men than kindness and sym- 
pathy. They subdue a heart into gentleness 
18* 



210 ABORIGINES. 

when sterner means would only harden into 
insensibility, or, what is worse, give the rein 
to unbridled passion. 

Near the mines at Creswick were encamped 
a small party of Australian natives — lank, 
" walnut-headed," almost black, and the most 
brazen and insatiable beggars imaginable. 
They were extravagantly fond of our tea, 
coffee, tobacco, and sugar, and knew English [ 
sufficiently to make known their wants. Any 
thing that was given was instantly secured 
in their mouths or girdles, and the same im- 
portunity manifested the second time, and so 
on till our patience was exhausted. The na- 
tives up the coast, in the neighborhood of 
Sidney and further, are said to be much more 
dangerous, revenging upon every white for 
the wrongs they have suffered from the early 
emigrants into that region. The race, howev- 
er, is nearly extinct. 

The mines in Creswick are either in very 
wet, low land, in shafts from ten to thirty feet 
deep, or in chalk hills of greater depth, where 
the fine, white dust is intolerable, almost suf- - 
focating, and exceedingly unhealthy. The 



RETURN TO BALLERAT. 211 

miners come from their work at night, like a 
regiment of ghosts, perfectly white, and indis- 
tinguishable as to features or garments. We 
spent one day in pecking away at a half- 
melted conglomeration, where every blow 
jarred our systems in a manner not altogether 
agreeable. Thinking such efforts quite too 
severe for mere speculation, I determined to 
go back to Ballerat. Clark, who had enough 
of wilful perseverance to keep him pecking 
on Mount Washington for gold till the day of 
his death, was somewhat enraged at this de- 
cision, but finally acquiesced, being more in- 
clined to go than to remain alone. Next 
morning we returned with the reflection up- 
permost in our minds that a "rolling stone 
gathers no moss." 

It was during this return from the Creek, 
we saw the celebrated "walking leaves," so 
called. While sitting under the shade of some 
gum trees, a slight breeze passed by, which 
brought to the ground a little shower of leaves. 
After lying still a moment, they started, and 
seemed to walk upon their stems toward the 
trunk of the tree. It is said that some years 



212 WALKING LEAVES. 

ago, before Australia was much settled, a party 
of sailors obtained a few days of liberty to 
make explorations upon the islands. The 
first day of their adventure, while sitting in a 
grove for rest, one of them suddenly cried out, 
"Let's leave this place at once, or the trees 
and the land will make off with us. See those 
leaves marching off on their stems ! " 

The evidence of their senses seemed suf- 
ficient, and there could be no doubt of the in- 
ference. They hastened on board the ship, 
preferring to lose their liberty rather than 
stay in a region of such doubtful foundation. 
How full of enigmas is nature to the igno- 
rant and superstitious, making them fear even, 
her happiest and richest manifestations! 



16th. — Ballerat is filled with rumors of 
newly-discovered treasures in Peru, at the head 
waters of the Amazon, where twenty-five 
pound "acquisitions" are of every-day occur- 
rence. The Americans are very much ex- 
cited, and hundreds are daily starting for Mel- 
bourne, bound for Callao. They have long 
been dissatisfied with the extortionate reguj 



I' 






A MASS MEETING. 213 



lations of the English government here. Some 
of the English sympathize with this restive 
feeling, though in general they are unani- 
mously arrayed against every thing and every 
body they call " Yankee;" and this title is given 
to every one that comes from any part of 

l North America. 

- 

We have had a mass meeting of the " lovers 
I of freedom and just legislation/' at which were 
enthusiastic speeches, — some for immediate 
action, not very plainly indicated, — resulting 
mainly in the adoption of several fiery resolu- 
tions concerning "fair representation" &c. ; and 
breaking up with the prevailing sentiment, 
that "Britons never, never will be slaves." 
One object, evidently, of the meeting was 
to retain, if possible, the great numbers that 
are leaving ; but the cry has gone forth, " On 
for Callao !" and hundreds are rushing, and 
will still continue to rush, to the new land of 
golden fame. 

We are not uninfluenced by the pervading 
spirit; beside a coffin-bearing flag, on a tall 
pole, in a distant part of the city, the escutch- 
eon of an opposition establishment, started 



; 



214 DECISION TO LEAVE BALLERAT. 



during our last absence, relieves us of all ap- I 
prehensions that our departure would be in- 
convenient to the community. 

Distant and unknown regions have a pecu- 
liar charm ; and who would not see as much as 
possible of this wide world ? Yes, we will go. i 
Houses and claims are a drug in the market — | 
worth absolutely nothing; but what we have I 
shall be disposed of to the best advantage, and 
we will start for Melbourne, though it seems, 
from our original party, I have not a single 
companion to accompany me on my wander- 
ings. Clark, for a trifling difference, concludes 
to remain behind. A letter from Yates and 
Harman, whom we left at the Isle of France, 
informs us of their arrival at Bendigo, Austra- 
lia, where they have established themselves in 
business, as partners in a cookie stand, clearing 
a net profit of five dollars a day. 

We have, after all, done better than the ma- 
jority in Ballerat, having paid our expenses, 
and gained some real estate, — at least, by 
miner's title, — and have enough to carry us 
to Callao, with a prospect of a little remainder. 
Probably not more than ten per cent, of the 



ON THE WAVE AGAIN. 215 

miners obtain a competency, or more ; half the 
j! remainder collect sufficient to get away with, 
while twenty-five per cent, of the whole die 
there, at home, or on the way thither, of dis- 
eases contracted here, not so much by reason 
of climate as the manner of living, which is 
usually reckless. 

20th. — The step is taken, and we are on 
board the bark Sacusa, bound for Callao, where 
I have plenty of leisure to review the past, and 
consider the history of the island we have left. 

We started from Ballerat on a route differ- 
ent from that which carried us there ; proceed- 
ing directly across the country instead of going 
by Geelong. 

At one of our halting places, oh the banks 
of a river, a fine bridge was being built, and 
near by the grading for a railroad was com- 
menced. From this place to Melbourne was a 
handsome stone road, built chiefly by convict 
labor, and constructed after the thorough Eng- 
lish fashion ; being a layer of rocks of consid- 
erable size, carefully laid, firm and close, a sec- 
ond above it of smaller size, and so on until 



216 FARMING SETTLEMENT. 

the road is several feet thick, and finally com- 
pleted with a thick stratum of hard gravel. 
Among the crowds of workmen who were 
engaged in continuing or repairing it, were 
many respectable, intelligent-looking men, per- 
haps voluntary workmen. Every one at work 
on the road claims two dollars fifty cents per 
day and rations, from government ; and num- 
bers of unsuccessful miners have resorted to 
this method as a surer way of obtaining gold, 
though it be not very rapid. 

In one instance, we passed through a settle- 
ment of English emigrants, who live by farming 
and providing for the wants of miners, who 
pass through the district on their way. There 
was neither church, school house, nor store; 
and a general appearance of indifference and 
sloth about the whole place — arising, doubtless, 
from the fact, that none owned their land, it 
being held in large grants by noble or wealthy 
persons, who will not sell, and who lease only 
on terms which render the tenant little better 
than a serf. A similar state of things is ob- 
structing the growth of almost all the Austra- 
lian cities. 



HIGH PRICE OF LAND. 217 

Building lots in Melbourne are often held at 
from fifty to one hundred thousand . dollars 
each, and rented at ten thousand a year. Land 
for a garden, three miles out of the city, has 
sold recently for eighty thousand dollars an 
acre. Prices in Adelaide are generally high. 

Even at Ballerat building lots were sold at 
auction, some distance from the mines, for 
fifteen hundred dollars each. The idea of an 
emigrant settling upon land within a hundred 
miles of any city, is out of the question. All 
good land within that distance, if not beyond 
it, is granted out in "runs," or large grazing 
farms, which cover a space five to twenty 
miles in length, including not only all the 
running water, but all the "lagoons," ponds, 
and springs, of any value. Without unfailing 
sources of water, land in Australia would be 
valueless. 

This land monopoly is the source of much 
trouble; for many intelligent men who have 
entered the country, with their families, have 
found the only alternative to be, to hire out to 
keep stock under these wealthy holders, who, 
19 



218 A PLEASANT CHANGE. 

of course ; take advantage of the necessity to 
enhance their own benefit. 

The wide streets of Melbourne were a most 
welcome sight to us, after our confinement to 
wild forests and muddy or dusty hills or plains. 
We spent the time allowed us in visiting places 
of interest, one of the most noticeable of which 
was the u Emigrant's Home." This was estab- 
lished, with the aid of government, by a few 
benevolent men, for the relief and assistance 
of the poor and suffering among this class. 
There are several large buildings, divided into 
tenements for different families, with a phy- 
sician and dispensary attached. Here the sick 
and the indigent may find a home until recov- 
ered from disease, or find employment. A sim- 
ilar, but smaller, institution is sustained by the 
Wesleyans, and devoted exclusively to that sect. 

We also found great pleasure in the quiet 
solitudes on the banks of the Yarra Yarra, and 
in visiting the splendid public gardens, wander- 
ing about the walks, admiring the graceful 
swans in the pools, and the spacious green- 
houses, with their brilliant and valuable con- 
tents. 



NATURAL FEATURE. 219 

Australia, as a whole, may be well styled a 
"land of anomalies." In the words of another 
writer, " The whole form, character, and compo- 
sition of this country are so singular, that a 
conjecture is hardly hazarded before it is over- 
turned ; every thing seems to run counter to 
the ordinary course of nature in other coun- 
tries. In other lands, the rocks and reefs that 
run into the sea determine, in many cases, the 
direction and continuity, or otherwise, of the 
mountain systems ; but the rocks and reefs of 
Australia afford no such key to the inquirer — 
they belong not to geology — they are the 
work of the coral insect, rising perpendicularly 
from the depths of the ocean till they form 
ridges and islands above its surface, which have 
nothing in common with any thing but them- 
selves." 

The most remarkable feature in the Austra- 
lian coast is, the total absence of outlets for 
any large rivers, thus making the freshness 
and fertility which usually attend the course 
of these "great fertilizers," almost unknown. 
Productive soil is found mostly on the sides 
and summits of considerable elevations, and 



220 PECULIARITIES. 

those engaged in exploring tours to the inte- 
rior look for these indications of mountain 
land, with a longing anxiety, which it is diffi- 
cult for those to understand who dwell in more 
favored lands. Another fact, that cannot fail 
of being observed, is, that these spots, con- 
fined to the higher regions, are as effectually 
separated from each other by apparently irre- 
deemable deserts, as though the ocean flowed 
between them. 

It appears probable, however, that both the 
land and water are still in a course of forma- 
tion; that the various anomalies, in each, 
which fill the minds of so .many with wonder 
and amazement, are only the natural appear- 
ances of an imperfect, or rather of an un- 
finished work, and that they will vanish when 
the causes now in operation shall have pro- 
duced their full effect. 

Writers profess to hazard these conjectures 
with much caution, and only because they 
appear to result from the facts collected by 
actual observers. 

Botany Bay, at its south-eastern point, has 
received its name, it is well known, from the 



BOTANY BAY. 221 

abundant vegetation which the early discov- 
erers found along its coast. It is scarcely less 
well known, that the first attempt at coloniza- 
tion was made at this bay, and almost im- 
mediately abandoned, under the conviction 
that its soil was unprofitable and sterile. Such 
conflicting statements, by able men, seem 
strange at first sight ; but investigation shows 
them to grow naturally out of the character 
of the Australian botany, which is as peculiar 
as most other things in this region of pecu- 
liarities. a Picturesque and pleasing," said the 
considerate pioneer, but " something more than 
leatdy must be sought in a place where the 
permanent residence of multitudes is to be 
established." 

The physical character of the Australian 
himself is not more marked by a general in- 
feriority than are his moral and intellectual 
attainments. He ranges through the fields, 
like man in his primitive state, unclothed; 
possessing not the smallest knowledge of agri- 
culture, even in its rudest form ; has scarcely 
an idea of arts or manufacture ; indeed he may 
rather be considered as a gregarious than a 
19* 



222 CHARACTERISTICS. 

social animal; for, although some personal 
respect is sometimes paid to a kind of chief 
among a tribe, it would seem that it is alto- 
gether personal, and independent of any right, 
either hereditary or elective. 

The stupidity of their nature and the inert- 
ness of their faculties are evinced by their 
thoughtlessness and neglect in obtaining food, 
or to obviate those incessantly recurring at- 
tacks of famine to which he has always been 
exposed. 

Though it be going too far, probably, to 
say that the native is incapable of improve- 
ment, the fair presumption seems to be, that 
he is destined to remain forever in the lowest 
scale of civilization, and to be inferior in point 
of comfort, as he has hardly been superior in 
contrivance hitherto, to many of the lower 
animals. 

Although the Island of Australia, naturally 
and artificially, presents many jagged and 
rough points, yet, like every part of God's 
dominions, it has its features of beauty and 
interest, and its part to serve in the world's 
history. 



CHAPTER XI. 

MONOTONY OF SEA LIFE. — CHANGE IN TIME BY THE 
OMISSION OF ONE DAY. — LANDING AT SOUTH AMER- 
ICA. — DISAPPOINTED HOPES. — STAY AT LIMA. — 
ROMAN FESTIVAL. 

22d. — Yesterday we sighted Van Diemen's 
Land. We are making south, for the purpose 
of rounding the southern point of New Zea- 
land and gain some advantage of wind. 

Our passengers number about a hundred, 
and as a whole, are a most agreeable class of 
men with whom to travel. They are chiefly 
Americans, English, and Scotch — experienced 
travelers, many of them having already been 
to California in search of gold, and still pur- 
suing the phantom of wealth untiringly, al- 
though the frosts of many winters have settled 
upon them, reminding others, if not them- 
selves, that the time draws near when earthly 
treasures will avail them nothing. 

(223) 



224 MONOTONY OF SEA LIFE. 

Life on shipboard has in it much of sensu- 
ality. Eating becomes a matter of primary 
and absorbing importance. Monotony and lack 
of occupation conspire with sharp sea appe- 
tites to make the daily meals absolutely the 
chief points of interest during the day, and 
these present arrangements bid fair to furnish 
something more worthy of rational thought 
than the miserable food and still more mis- 
erable conduct on the Peytona, which was in- 
deed a disgrace to humanity. 

February 10th. — Since my last record, we 
have had a comfortless and even dangerous 
time, by reason of a long-continued gale, which 
tossed our small vessel more fearfully than 
we could wish. So violent was the ship's mo- 
tion, it was impossible to leave our bunks; 
beside, sundry trunks were loosened from their 
hold, and were sliding about the cabin in 
wild confusion. An immense retinue of small 
articles almost immediately followed — things 
which their owners had unsuspectingly secreted 
under their bunks, or laid unfastened upon 
shelves above. Plates, demijohns, jugs, knives 



GAMBLING. 225 

and forks, boots and shoes, cups and bottles — 
miscellaneous messes of beans, rice, &c., saved 
for lunch — rolled and danced over the floor in 
the most indescribable manner, for the space 
of twenty-four hours, while the gale was at its 
hight. 

For myself, I feel a positive pleasure in 
traveling with decent people, upon a re- 
spectably managed ship. We are not over- 
crowded; things in the main are satisfactory, 
and all things go on harmoniously from day 
to day, without those soul-discomforting events 
that have hitherto tried us. 

We have, however, a set of gamblers on 
board; seemingly professional gentlemen in 
that line, who play with scarcely an inter- 
mission, except for their meals ; keeping it up 
not only during the day, but through the 
night also. 

Happily, the captain will not allow it on 
the Sabbath, neither any other amusement; 
and we have the grateful intermission of at 
least one day. 

Since the return of fair weather our ship's 
reckoning has been altered, according to the 
custom of mariners, by omitting one day. 



226 DROPPING A DAY. 

By passing around the world eastward, we 
should, of course, for each thousand miles of 
the whole twenty-four of the earth's circum- 
ference, come one hour sooner to sunrise, and 
at our return home by the same route, one 
day having as it were slipped backward upon 
the stationary time at home, would have passed 
over twenty-four full hours, and would be co- 
inciding again with home time, but with this 
difference : we should be calling it by the name 
which our friends had used for the day before. 
Leaving, then, for example, on Sunday, we 
might reach home on that day, which to us 
would be Saturday, obliging us to omit one 
clay in our date. This omission is made for 
general convenience at the meridian of one 
hundred and eighty degrees longitude, opposite 
the initial meridian of Greenwich, and there- 
fore the most proper point. 

The mysterious extinction of a day caused 
no little merriment and much speculation. 
The captain, being able to drop any day he 
chose, concluded to extinguish the seventh; 
whether from professional or individual en- 
mity to religion, or to gratify his avaricious 



CHARACTER OF OUR SECOND MATE. 227 

disposition by keeping the crew at work, is 
unknown. 

The change was made upon the log-book 
without any public intimation of it; and we, 
who were strenuously observing it, by extra 
ablutions, careful dress, and abstaining from 
amusements, were suddenly taken aback by 
seeing things proceed in the usual manner. 

The murmuring at this movement of the 
captain's was so general and so loud, he was 
glad to ordain the observance of the next day, 
Tuesday of the new style, as a substituted 
Sabbath, at least so far as regarded rest from 
labor, and some other trifling, though to us in- 
dispensable ceremonies, according to our own 
views. 

12 th. — Our second mate is thoroughly ig- 
norant of every thing except working ship, 
and, like many others who are profound in a 
narrow circle of knowledge, and supreme in a 
small sphere of power, is abundantly vain of fi 
his acquirements, and ostentatious of his au- 
thority. He is six feet in hight, broad and 
muscular, with a full, red face, bushy hair, 



fe * 



228 STOPPING THE MATE'S NOISE. 

large, dark eyes, with no meaning whatever, 
and a voice that rings through the ship in 
a manner that almost makes her tremble. 
Having exhausted the difficulty naturally at- 
tendant upon the commencement of a voyage 
with a crew out of practice by a year or two 
of mining, he seems to have concentrated his 
dislike upon our cabin boy, who has, at best, a 
temper fiery in the extreme. " Boy Bill," as 
he is called, is invariably aroused at half past 
three o'clock, and in such a boisterous manner 
as to dissipate the slumbers of the passengers 
for the rest of the night. 

The nuisance grew so unbearable, a scheme 
was formed to prevent it' if possible. The 
morning following its formation, as the mate 
appeared at the door of the saloon, a forward 
passenger shouted a Boy Bill," and immediately 
the same was reiterated to the farther end of 
the cabin, by seventy-five different voices, with 
as much power as they could command. The 
uproar was terrible and deafening, but highly 
effective, as it has given to us the peaceable 
hours of rest, undisturbed by the stentorian 
tones of this " son of thunder." 



THE LOST RECKONING. 229 

20th. — We have been forty days out, the 
average voyage being much less, and have not 
yet seen any thing of the coast of South 
America. Some begin to be afraid that our 
reckoning is wrong; but the captain refuses 
information, taking it as an insult that any 
one disbelieves his daily bulletin of latitude 
and longitude. For the last two or three days 
there has been much dissatisfaction, which 
found definite utterance this morning in an 
anonymous despatch upon the bulletin board, 
in the form of an advertisement on this wise : — 

"LOST, STRAYED, OR STOLEN. 

" The American ship Sacnsa, Captain Scott, which 
left Port Philip for Callao, with one hundred passen- 
gers, January 20th. When last heard from, she was 
near the antipodes; supposed noiv to be somewhere 
in the Pacific Ocean, between Australia and America. 
A very handsome reward will be paid to any ivho 
tvill correctly state hei* ivhereabouts, and a still great- 
er one to those who tvill pilot her into the port of 
Callao. 

" In behalf of one hundred sickened passengers!' 
20 



230 A LONG VOYAGE. 

It has excited the ire of the commander, 
but being impossible to find the instigator of 
such a movement, nothing will be done. 

During the whole of our long voyage, we 
have not spoken one vessel, nor sighted land 
since the antipodes — a somewhat uncommon 
instance of a solitary passage. It has some- 
how come to the knowledge of the captain 
that Perrin and myself were passengers in the 
Peytona, famous through this part of the 
world as an unlucky ship. 

To-day he sent us a polite invitation to visit 
him; and, thinking such attention not to be 
declined, we went; gave him an account of 
our wanderings, much to his surprise and 
gratification. 

" Well ! " said he, good-naturedly, at the 
close of the tale, "I've had a pretty long 
voyage this time, and no wonder, since I've 
got two Peytona Jonahs on board. I don't 
expect to make any port at all now." 

March 29th. — Full two days before the 
coast of South America was visible, those very 
discerning ones, of whom there are usually a 



PLEASANTRIES. 231 

goodly number on board ship, could see dis- 
tinctly u the loom of the land," and even the 
very peaks of the long-looked-for Andes. These 
airy visions kept up considerable excitement, 
both among the credulous and those who made 
sport of it. Whenever any one has been 
specially confident of seeing the shadow in the 
eastern horizon, or the faint outlines of some 
snowy peak, some one has stood ready to cor- 
roborate his statement, and even give it a 
more tangible form. " Certainly ! I see 'em," 
has been the reply. " Don't you see that 
mountain covered with trees, and the birds and 
monkeys in their branches ? " and, a Can you 
not perceive that rock at the foot of the moun- 
tain, and a frog upon the top of it ? " 

Thus the jokers joked ; the anxious gazed 
so sick with suspense they could neither eat 
nor sleep, while the cooler and more philo- 
sophic quietly waited for a solid foundation to 
their hopes. At last the land was clearly to 
be seen before us, this morning, in a line of 
snow-covered peaks, distant and dim, like a 
dream, and the darker range of highlands 
below, stretching out of sight on either hand. 



232 CALLAO IN SIGHT. 

Every body was on deck, — officers, crew, and 
passengers, — for the morning was perfect and 
the sight lovely. About noon, to the confusion 
of all the unbelieving despisers of the captain's 
skill as a navigator, the roadstead of Callao 
came in sight directly before us, into which he 
brought the ship as accurately and fairly, as if 
he had drawn her thither by a line ; but the 
critics, like all mistaken ones, insisted upon it 
that the success was pure accident, and no 
credit to the captain. 

It was a strange and eager crowd that cov- 
ered the deck as we ranged slowly up toward 
the anchorage. There stood the gamblers, some 
of them penniless, and others correspondingly 
rich with their gains. By their side were men 
with gray hairs and wrinkled faces, who had 
been first to California, afterward to Austra- 
lia, in unsuccessful search after gold, leaving 
families in narrow circumstances at home — 
their lives thus far a failure, and their one re- 
maining hope, that of making up for all in the 
new diggings of Peru. No small number had 
laid out every dollar they possessed in the 
world for this passage, and a meager outfit for 
the journey to the mines on the Amazon. 



FILIAL AFFECTION. 233 

There, too, was Williams, a young man who 
had been brought on board apparently far 
gone with the consumption, but who has re- 
covered a considerable share of health and 
strength in the balmy air of the Pacific ; look- 
ing forward with a dim and half-painful hope 
of being at last able to realize the fondest wish 
of his heart — that of affording material assist- 
ance to his father. He was the son of a wealthy 
Englishman, and was educated with the design 
of succeeding his father in business; but the 
latter, becoming bankrupt, removed to a distant 
country, and he was obliged to abandon school 
and engage in some effort that would afford 
some remuneration. His health failed, and 
to reestablish, it he made the voyage to Austra- 
lia. Proving favorable, he commenced business 
there, but was again arrested by symptoms of 
pulmonary disease, which compelled him to 
leave, and incidentally brought him on board 
our ship, still retaining the absorbing desire to 
aid his father ; exhibiting an admirable spirit 
of filial devotion, seldom witnessed. 

The position which I occupied upon the fore- 
castle gave me an opportunity of studying the 
20* 



234 DISAPPOINTMENT. 

countenances of the passengers, most of which 
betokened a vague, uneasy excitement, some- 
times of painful intensity. Not a word was 
said, except in an occasional low whisper, for 
every man was absorbed with his own indi- 
vidual hopes and fears ; but the impatience of 
the silent throng was manifested more clearly 
than words could have shown it, by the steady, 
bent brows, the restless movements, and quiet 
sighs that unconsciously escaped from nearly all. 
The custom-house officer came on board, and 
the established etiquette barely restrained us 
from infringing upon his business interview with 
the captain. This over, the storm of questions 
was instant and tremendous. " Gentlemen," re- 
plied the official, a there is nothing in it ; you 
have all been humbugged." At this brief and 
unexpected answer a change came over the 
faces of the crowd, almost like blotting the sun 
from the heavens in appearance. I saw tears 
in the eyes of strong men, and an agony of 
bitter and hopeless disappointment in many 
more. Some silently went below to weep; 
some flew into a rage, and swore revenge upon 
the man who had originated such reports; a 



ORIGIN OP THE DECEPTION. 235 

few looked merely sullen, and still fewer indif- 
ferent. 

As for myself and Perrin, we had talked 
over the prospect many times, and had come 
to the conclusion that the probabilities of ob- 
taining gold were against us ; and our hopes, in 
consequence, had not become very strong. Be- 
side, it was not so much the hope of gain that 
had brought us thither, as the love of wander- 
ing ; which, I confess, was so powerful a prin- 
ciple with me, as to make me comparatively 
indifferent to poverty or riches. 

Upon further inquiry it was ascertained, that 
the original report was, undoubtedly, founded 
on assertions of Lieutenant Herndon, of gold 
to be found upon the head waters of the Ama- 
zon, and elsewhere, east of the Andes. The 
fellow who had spread the news in Melbourne 
was probably associated with some unprin- 
cipled captains or owners, who were desirous 
of contriving paying voyages for their ves- 
sels, then lying unemployed in Port Philip 
harbor ; and letters which he presented, pur- 
porting to be from a brother in Peru, con- 
taining glowing accounts of the mines, were 



236 NUMBER OF THE DUPED. 

a base fabrication. We are told that this same 
man, while coming across upon another ves- 
sel, has been caught in robbing a passenger, 
and is now imprisoned in Callao, to answer to 
the charge — an item of information that seems 
a real consolation to many of our unfortunate 
men, especially considering the misery of 
Spanish prisons, and the dilatoriness of their 
tribunals. 

The whole number of men thus caught in 
this net is over two thousand. Callao is full 
to overflowing of those who are waiting for a 
steamer to take them to Panama, or staying 
because they have no money wherewith to 
take them to a new destination. And worse 
than all, as I learn from an acquaintance that 
has come on board, the yellow fever is among 
them, and hundreds are dying. 

Gold, he says, may probably be found in 
§ome places near the upper waters of the 
Amazon, several hundred miles distant ; but the 
journey is, perhaps, as perilous as could be 
made in South America. It lies across the 
Andes, through large tracts of the low-land 
forests; through territories of hostile tribes, 



DISCOURAGING PROSPECTS. 237 

whose secret assaults and poisoned weapons 
are sure destruction for small parties. It is 
certain the trip can not be made at all, except 
by strong companies, every man completely 
equipped with arms and provisions for a long 
expedition — requisites out of the reach of the 
vast majority of those here. 

30th. — After the disheartening news of yes- 
terday, we thought best to remain on board for 
the night ; and this morning we went on shore, 
to see who of our Australian acquaintances 
might be found. Three of the passengers have 
joined Perrin and myself and despite our 
cloudy prospects we are quite cheerful, and 
determined to keep together and make the 
best of it. We were met at every turn by 
scores of those who had arrived before us, and 
on the principle" that " misery loves company," 
were delighted to see us. Doleful were the 
details that we heard from each and all ; living 
was expensive, board exorbitant, houses were 
full ; no one dared venture for the mines ; no 
ships were up for California, or the Isthmus ; 
no steamer would leave for Panama for two or 
three weeks. 



238 * CALLAO. 

This was truly a melancholy story for us ; 
but considering despondency a sure road to the 
fever, and not being quite penniless, we re- 
solved to look about Callao, and inquire for 
lodgings. In wandering about the different 
hotels, I found a letter from Mrs. Haynes, one 
of our party from Geelong to Ballerat, who 
had preceded me, and was already on her way 
to San Francisco. She advises me to go at 
once to Lima, and remain until an oppor- 
tunity is offered to sail for Panama, and I am 
inclined to do so. 

Callao is low, flat, and sickly; the streets 
narrow and intolerably filthy; the houses mean 
and poor, with mud walls and flat roofs. One 
of the first and most remarkable things that 
attracted our attention, was the immense pile 
of wheat that was to be seen in the open air. 
Thousands of bushels are piled together in 
this situation, remaining an almost incredible 
time without injury, there being no rain on 
this coast, and consequently a dry atmosphere. | 

The present town is of comparatively mod- 
ern origin; the former having been wholly 
submerged and destroyed in a terrible earth- 



LIMA. 239 

quake in 1746, which also laid waste, a part 
of Lima. 

It is said that many portions of buildings 
still standing can yet be seen at low water. 
Immense treasures were buried in private 
dwellings, and more in the large churches 
which still lie among the ruins "in the bot- 
tom of the sea." Various applications have 
been made for permission to seek for them, 
but for some unknown reason the Peruvian 
government has invariably refused. 

April 13th. — The excitement consequent 
upon life in Lima has left me neither time nor 
inclination for daily journalizing. Two weeks 
have been spent in rambling about the city ; 
and from this stand-paint I can speak of that 
which my eyes have seen and my ears have 
heard, with more satisfaction to myself, and 
perhaps greater benefit to others. 

With several of our ship's company we came 
to Lima, a distance of ten miles, being an 
ascending grade of fifty feet to the mile, in 
about one hour. 

The cars here are mere open carriages — no 



240 BANDITTI. 

protection from the rain or cold being neces- 
sary. The sun sent down upon us his scorch- 
ing rays ; but the road is in immediate prox- 
imity to the old government road, which 
is shaded on either side with magnificent 
trees, whose broad branches afford an agreea- 
ble shade. 

Upon our arrival, we found that our ex- 
penses would not vary much from six dollars 
a week — a sum altogether too large for our 
limited resources, especially as we had a long 
journey yet before us. After a night of rest, 
we sallied forth, satisfied our wants with ba- 
nanas from the market place, and finally suc- 
ceeded in obtaining cheap lodging rooms of 
a German landlord, where we established our- 
selves, and very soon felt at home. We 
thought of encamping somewhere in the neigh- 
borhood, but found the country entirely in- 
closed; beside, the vicinity swarms with robbers, 
and straggling soldiers, identical with them, 
who rob and murder at their pleasure. A 
large number of American and English people 
are here, and their affinity of blood and lan- 
guage seems to bring them together as breth- j 



ASPECT OF LIMA. .. 241 

ren of one family, laying aside the distinction 
that existed in Australia, or forgetting differ- 
ences by being in a common condition of 
poverty in a strange land. 

Lima looks somewhat imposing as ap- 
proached from the ocean ; standing out prom- 
inently upon an elevated table-land, and this 
upon the dark background of the Andes. The 
mountains in this region are quite barren — 
all the upper portion of the first range, a mile 
or two from the city, being a mere mass of 
lava, while the land at their base is a garden 
of tropical vegetation. Scores of churches, 
convents, and cathedrals tower above the low- 
er buildings, and give a powerful impression 
of massive grandeur at the first view. Ordi- 
narily, the houses are but one story, with flat 
roofs, so constructed by reason of frequent 
earthquakes, which render them liable to be 
thrown down ; and they are incomparably less 
dangerous under these circumstances, than if 
they were more elevated and of solid ma- 
terial. Sun-dried bricks, made of clay and 
chopped straw, form the bulk of their building 
stuff. Lima contains about seventy churches, 
21 



242 CHUKCHES, ETC. 

besides the grand cathedral which stands in 
the plaza, and was built by Pizarro, being one 
hundred and eighty-six feet in front by three 
hundred and twenty deep. It is considered a 
fine specimen of architecture, but much dilap- 
idated ; and indeed, in its best estate, was sadly 
injured by gaudy coloring and grotesque orna- 
ments — a plain indication of the want of civ- 
ilization and refinement in the vain architects. 
It possesses, at present, no other attractions 
but a quantity of relics, and some old paint- 
ings and statuary. In 1746 its towers were 
thrown down by an earthquake, but were re- 
built in 1800. It has several fine toned bells, 
and the wealth which has at different times 
been lavished upon its interior is scarcely to 
be credited, except in a city which once paved 
a street with ingots of silver to do honor to 
a new viceroy. As a proof of the abundance 
of silver ornaments, it is said that in 1821, 
a tun and a half of silver was taken from 
the various churches in Lima, without being 
missed, to meet the exigencies of the state. 

The Church of San Francisco contains an 
altar, also built by Pizarro, purporting to stand 



PROMENADES. 243 

upon columns of solid silver, beside being 
decorated with profuse ornaments of silver 
and gold, and the whole surmounted with a 
golden statue of himself. The forms of these 
things are certainly to be seen, but the real 
substances were stolen during the revolution, 
leaving nothing but base metal gilded over. 
This church was once the richest in the world, 
and still retains enough of ornament, painting, 
and statuary, to render it interesting. There 
are two large theatres, only one of which is 
assisted by government, and this is now closed 
on account of political troubles. 

Beside the festivals and dramatic amuse- 
ments, a favorite evening pleasure of the peo- 
ple of the city consists in promenading upon 
the grand plaza, which is a spacious, handsome 
square, lined with all the principal shops, and 
therefore quite lively. Its sidewalks are 
handsomely paved with mosaic, while those 
opposite the cathedral present the novel and 
startling appearance of being inlaid here and 
there with human bones, though no one, as I 
could find, is able to tell whence they came, or 
why they were there. About a mile distant 



244 CLIMATE. INHABITANTS. 

from this place, across the Kiver Kimac, there 
is another public square, usually called the 
Alameda; situated between a range of fine 
residences on one side and a low wall along 
the river on the other side, shaded through- 
out by the choicest tropical trees, thus form- 
ing an exceedingly pleasant resort for the 
lovers of pleasure. 

The climate is pleasant, the extremes of 
heat and cold being never experienced. The 
thermometer in the city, and in the shade, 
never falls in winter under sixty degrees Fahr- 
enheit, nor rises in summer above eighty-two 
degrees, its usual station being about eighty 
degrees in well-aired apartments. 

There are about seventy-five thousand in- 
habitants in Lima; Spanish and Peruvian by 
blood, with a small intermixture from other 
nations. A larger part of the lower classes 
are Peruvians, mostly indolent and stupid, 
caring little or nothing for society ; even re- 
maining unmoved at the extravagant stories 
of the gold fields, or the general rumor of a 
movement upon the city, by rebels of some 
kind. Their wants are merely sensual, and a 



SPANISH FAMILIES. 245 

bare living suffices. Fruit, which is excessive- 
ly cheap ; a little corn or manioc-root flour ; 
a fine outside garment, in addition to their 
usual scanty dress, will satisfy all their worldly 
desires. 

There is in the city a small circle of proud 
and exclusive families of old Spanish blood, 
who are very wealthy, owning, as we are told, 
a great part of the city, and large estates in 
the country, as well as interests in the silver 
mines. They are seldom out alone after dark, 
for fear of assassination, as the common people 
regard them with only malicious feelings. 

Many of them are well educated for this 
country, in a college established at this place, 
and chiefly patronized by them. They are 
very tenacious of their old customs, and stran- 
gers find it almost impossible to gain access 
to their circles. 

The best portion of the citizens, and, as I 
believe, of the Peruvians in general, is the 
large middle class of tradesmen, mechanics, 
and small land-holders. These people have 
some spirit ; do something for their country ; 
but are excessively fond of dress and amuse- 
21* 



246 PRIESTS OF LIMA. 

ments ; yet hospitable, courteous in manner, 
and especially polite and attentive to strangers. 
Detachments of troops are almost daily to be 
met, drilling on the public grounds. They are 
the tamest looking soldiers imaginable, with 
not nearly as much uniformity in size or skill 
as is usually seen in our volunteer school-boy 
companies ; nerveless and stupid beyond de- 
scription. This excites but little surprise, when 
we consider that they are poor, lower-class 
natives, pressed into the service, neither 
knowing nor caring for whom or what they 
fight. 

There are said to be about three thousand 
priests in Lima, and nuns not less in number. 
The churches are generally open for mass in 
the morning, and we have several times at- 
tended the service for the purpose of enjoying 
the music and the coolness of the large, dim 
buildings. The priests were exceedingly civil, 
and appeared to court the presence of stran- 
gers, more probably for the sake of their con- 
tributions than from any other motive. One 
of the fathers always stands at the door with a 
plate, and no one can resist giving him at 



CHARACTER OF THE PRIESTHOOD. 247 

least a a real/' if it is only to witness the ex- 
treme politeness of the cunning fellows. They 
are vehement in the affirmation that all such 
collections go into the church treasury for re- 
pairs, replacing images, &c. ; but charity hardly 
forbids the suspicion that a large proportion of 
it goes for the support of the clergy them- 
selves. The priests are by no means prepos- 
sessing in appearance; have neither respecta- 
bility nor dignity. They may be seen lounging 
at church doors, even during divine service, chat- 
ting, laughing, smoking; and, in spite of all 
this, continue to exert great influence on the 
lower classes, which constitute the great body 
of the community. The wealthy and aristo- 
cratic occasionally pay some regard to the 
forms and ceremonies of exterior religion, for 
fashion's sake, or to avoid dangerous collisions 
with the priests and their flocks ; but at heart 
they are chiefly infidels. 

On the Saturday previous to Palm Sunday 
we were accidentally present at a curious re- 
hearsal of the exercises for the festival. We 
had attended service ih the morning, and were 
examining some paintings and statuary in a 



248 RIDICULOUS CEREMONIES. 

distant part of the gallery, when the small 
congregation quietly dispersed, while we were 
made aware of being locked in by the shutting 
of the doors. We would have applied for lib- 
erty, but observing that preparations were 
being made in the body of the church for 
some ceremony, we at once determined to be 
silent spectators. 

Quietly creeping to a front corner of the 
gallery, we looked and listened, while the farce 
below proceeded. It proved to be the pre- 
paratory drill of one detachment for the grand 
procession of the following day. 

The music and the chanting were solemn 
and beautiful, and the whole procession, filing 
about through the vast, dim aisles, and un- 
der the lofty roof, with splendid costumes, 
glittering silvered palm-branches, censers, and 
all the paraphernalia of a Catholic festival, 
might have been profoundly impressive. But 
the actors, numbering fifty, were of all ages, 
from gray-haired men down to mere boys, 
and went through their parts with silly laugh- 
ter, ridiculous grimaces, and tricks, as if they 
had been a company of monkeys, instead of 



A PROCESSION. 249 

professedly Christian people commemorating 
a solemn incident in the life of Christ, their 
Master. 

They pulled each other slyly by the gown, 
smote each other about the ears and on the 
shaven crown with the dry, rattling palm- 
branches, joked and laughed until every thing 
sacred and. impressive had disappeared in the 
display of levity, folly, and blasphemy. 

The procession on the following day was 
one exceedingly imposing. It was headed by 
a detachment of several thousand troops, after 
whom came the bishop and his long train of 
splendidly arrayed acolytes and clergy, and 
concluded by an army of citizens. Full a 
hundred thousand people must have been here 
on that day, including troops and country 
people. The long line was gay with banners, 
military music and uniforms, crosiers, staves, 
censers, and the waving and flashing of gilt 
and silvered palm leaves w T hich both men 
and images bore in their hands. Towering 
high above all were the images of Christ and 
the twelve apostles, in fine ruffled shirts and 
modern outer garments, and in front the rep- 



250 A GRAND DISPLAY. 

resentation of the Virgin Mary, dressed in 
embroidered satin, fancy crape shawl, ribbons, 
and diamonds. The whole display was cer- 
tainly very imposing, and the aspect of the 
whole city exceedingly lively and gay — a state 
of things which doubtless serves an important 
purpose in keeping the people quiet and con- 
tented under the yoke, both of their priestly 
and political rulers. 



CHAPTER XII. 

THE YELLOW FEVER. — VOYAGE TO PANAMA. — ARRIVE 

AT SAN FRANCISCO. SCENES AT THE POST OFFICE. 

SITUATION OF THE CITY. — IMPRESSIONS OF DIF- 
FERENT MEN. 

If "variety is the spice of life" as some 
affirm, then the portion of existence which fell 
to us in Lima was well seasoned. Days and 
weeks passed while we were strolling about 
the city, making little expeditions here and 
there, taking an occasional trip to Callao by 
railroad, and enjoying social intercourse with 
our fellows in misfortune. For myself, I fell 
in with a Swiss gentleman of much intelligence, 
who kindly invited me to his house, affording 
me pleasurable seasons, that will ever remain 
among the pleasantest reminiscences of my 
stay in the city. That joy and sorrow, pain 
and pleasure, are closely allied in this world, is 
not only a theory, but an actual fact, and so 

(251) 



252 YELLOW FEVER PREVALENT. 

felt, as we reviewed scenes and events while on 
the steamer, bound for Panama. 

May 5th. — The agreeable excitement, con- 
sequent upon rambling and sight-seeing in 
Lima, almost prevented us from taking note 
of the continued ravages of the yellow fever 
among the foreigners. At last it began to 
invade our own circle of acquaintance. More 
than once, when we had passed a delightful 
evening with a small party, upon inquiring 
next day of some member for the health of 
another, we were met with the reply, " He is 
buried." Not many such shocks were needed 
to cast gloomy shadows around us, awaking 
feelings that may perhaps have tended to pre- 
pare us for an attack of the same deadly dis- 
ease. One after another of our circle were at 
length taken down, myself the last — induced 
probably by fatigue and watching with my 
companions. It may have been sheer insensi- 
bility that made me confident I was not near 
death, though a victim of the dreadful fever; 
but I am inclined to ascribe the calmness and 
freedom which I felt to a higher than human 



THE FEVER BAFFLED. 253 

power or agency; even to that grace which 
" soothes the troubled mind" under the most 
adverse circumstances of life. My first greet- 
ing to the physician, a clever young German, 
upon his first visit, was, " Well, doctor, I'm not 
going to die yet ! " — positiveness that provoked 
a smile, and the remark that, " With that dispo- 
sition you will do well enough." His treat- 
ment in all cases was invariably the same — a 
moderate dose of calomel, blue pill afterward, 
and citric acid as a cooling drink whenever 
needed. I swallowed the first, received each 
installment of the second with great respect, 
and threw it under my bed in his absence, and 
drank the refreshing solution of acid with 
much pleasure. A few days sufficed to com- 
plete the work of recovery ; and so pleased was 
my physician with my apparent good behavior, 
he only presented a bill of the mere cost of 
the drugs, and declared more than half of the 
fatal cases would have recovered if they had 
done the like. I had remained here nearly a 
month before the expected steamer came up 
the coast. In company with my friend Wil- 
liams, from whom the fever seemed to have 
22 



254 * DEPARTURE. 

driven away all consumptive symptoms, but 
who had lost rather in the struggle between 
two such foes, I engaged passage for Panama. 
Perrin, my faithful friend and constant com- 
panion and partner from the Isle of France to 
Australia, thence to Lima, remained behind in 
order to negotiate, in some way, for a passage 
home. One of our party was hopelessly ill of 
the fever; indeed, could not have been more 
than an hour or two from his death when we 
were forced to leave him, to reach the steamer. 

In spite of the discouraging accounts of the 
Peruvian mines, and of the route thither, sev- 
eral parties were organized to reach them. 
During our stay three bands started, each 
person with a mule, and all the arms and outfit 
required. Of these, as I learn, one has disap- 
peared forever, in the frightful mountains and 
forests, having never been heard from after 
leaving Lima. The second made considerable 
distance, losing more than half their number, 
when they were overtaken by about as many 
of the third party, being all that were left 
alive. 

The two forlorn detachments joined, and for 



FAILURE OF THE ENTERPRISE. 255 

fear of hostile Indians avoided all human habita- 
tions, living during many days of toilsome jour- 
neying only upon monkeys and wild oranges. 
This unhealthy diet, together with swamp 
atmosphere, bad water, discouragement, and 
excessive fatigue, obliged them to halt in the 
depths of the forest. It was then agreed that 
those who felt able and desirous of doing so, 
should push on, and that the rest should recruit 
and return. Some twenty or more proceeded ; 
twelve turned back, eight only reaching Lima, 
in a wretched condition, — bareheaded, bare- 1 
footed, tattered, emaciated, penniless, almost 
starved, — with barely enough of life left to 
try to preserve it. 

This whole emigration from Australia is one 
vast failure. Probably, of the four thousand 
men who have come across, not one fifth ever 
started for the mines, and nearly one third died 
of fever. The rest gradually scattered, some 
to Australia, some to California, and others else- 
where. It may be imagined that the threats 
against the author of this wide-spread sorrow 
and misery were deep and frequent. No at- 
tempts were made, however, to fulfil them, and 



256 A DELIGHTFUL VOYAGE. 

the miserable man, no doubt, found a sufficient 
punishment in the squalid rigor of his impris- 
onment. He was released before we left, and 
we saw him more than once sneaking about 
alone, pale and sickly, and with every appear- 
ance of shame and sorrow. 

Our steamer is the Santiago, the English 
mail vessel between Valparaiso and Panama — 
an iron boat, long, narrow, and so low that, 
sitting over the edge of the guards, our feet 
nearly touch the water. The accommodations 
are excellent, and the table luxurious. Having 
the curiosity, a day or two since, to count the 
different articles of food at dinner, I found 
them to be seventy-two, independent of fruit. 
These quiet days are exceedingly delightful; 
this portion of the Pacific is as smooth as any 
inland lake ; even a skiff might make a voyage 
between Lima and Panama. The air is balmy 
and spring-like ; the steamer glides steadily 
and quietly; and the easy, pleasurable life 
soothes our very hearts, wearied and worn with 
such long-continued toils and wanderings. 

I find quite a number of English families 
on board, apparently making the trip for 



PANAMA. 257 

pleasure; and surely they could not have made 
a better choice. 

If American pleasure-seekers would find the 
object for which they search, they can most as- 
suredly realize it in this region. A summer 
excursion from New York to Panama, down 
the coast to Lima or Valparaiso and back, and 
then to San Francisco home again, would be 
indeed a trip full of delightful interest. 

Panama, May 30th. — Upon reaching Pan- 
ama, we went first to a hotel, and having seen 
poor Williams comfortably settled, went out 
to search for cheaper lodgings ourselves. 
While in a bar room, my eye was attracted by 
a card bearing the name of Rev. Mr. Rowell, 
the American missionary chaplain stationed 
here. I at once conceived the idea of con- 
sulting with him both in regard to our stay 
and the means of reaching San Francisco, 
whither we intended to go. After some search, 
I discovered his residence — a pleasant home 
in the suburbs of the city, where we were 
hospitably received, in Mr. R's absence, by 
his wife. While conversing with her, the mis- 
22* 



258 A SELECT RESTAURANT. 

sionary himself came in, and upon our stating 
our errand, we received the unwelcome intel- 
ligence that the steamer had just left, and we 
should be under the necessity of remaining in j 
Panama two or three weeks. He kindly of- 
fered to lodge us during our stay, in such 
style as his narrow means would permit, afford- I, 
ing nothing but a cool matted floor, on which ' 
to rest ; but this was at once luxury and econ- j 
omy, and we accepted the offer very gratefully. 

In our wanderings about the city, we dis- \ 
covered a "restaurant" very fortunately; and 
from this time we have invariably taken our 
meals there. We have carefully avoided speak- 
ing of the place to others, lest we make diffi- 
culty for the hostess; for we have not been 
slow in perceiving that it is a select place, 
even for the better class of priests — an infalli- 
ble sign of its professional merits. 

We met unfriendly looks and words from 
these fathers at first, a little significant, seem- 
ingly, causing us to note them ; for they are 
doubly inimical to foreigners of heretical be- 
lief, and in this country the sentiments of the 
priests are the sentiments of the people. My 



THE AMERICAN DIME. 259 

friend and myself are far from being rich, and 
our meals are consequently frugal indeed — 
a fortunate necessity for us, however, as the 
diseases of northern men in tropical climates 
are almost invariably the result of intemper- 
ance in eating or drinking, or both. We each 
pay a dime for breakfast, which consists of a 
cup of excellent coffee, and a nice French roll; 
two or three dimes for dinner, which is made 
up of some light dishes, with an abundance of 
delicious fruit. 

The American dime has quite supplanted 
the "real" as the chief small-change coin on 
the Isthmus and in California. As for cents, 
instead of being objects of contempt and aver- 
sion, as in the Southern and Western United 
States, they are objects of curiosity. I have 
seen a young man carry one on his watch- 
chain, as "charms" and trinkets are worn at 
the East, and it has commanded universal 
attention. a What's that ? " is a frequent ques- 
tion. " Why, that must be a cent ! " and it is 
inspected with as much curiosity as if it had 
been coined by Tubal-Cain, in the original 
antediluvian mint. 



260 INHABITANTS OF THE RESTAURANT. 

But to return to the restaurant, which is 
delicately neat, considering the variety and 
number of its occupants. They seem to 
constitute a " happy family," much more re- 
markable than the incongruous animal assem- 
blage sometimes so called. According to our 
careful and repeated census, there are ducks, 
hens, turkeys, cats, dogs, goats, pigs, girls, boys, j 
women, and numberless withered Spaniards, 3 
all running in and out, at work, play, or sleep, 
on the ground floor of the low, large room. ) 
Among this strange and heterogeneous crowd, f 
cool, and undismayed by the indescribable mix- 
ture of voices of beasts and birds, human f 
conversation, calls of customers, the complex j 
responsibilities of the cooking department, i 
which steamed at the further side of the room, 
and the current calls of the household, this i 
managing partner of the concern goes to and ! 
fro upon her innumerable errands ; never hur- 
ried nor worried — a very pearl of native i 
women. She is immensely fat, with a clear 
olive skin, fine features, splendid black eyes 
pearly teeth, and no small quantum of good f 
nature and dignity. \ 



STATE OF MORALS. 261 

Old Panama, the ancient Spanish city, is 
quite ruined, and indeed the new place, by the 
same name, is scarcely less so. Many of the 
churches show signs of vast wealth in the past, 
but only a very few families of wealth are in 
the place now, and neither enterprise nor thrift 
exists but what is planted here by means 
of the transit travel to and from California, 
and down the coast. Americans who estab- 
lish themselves in business at this point show 
their characteristic energy, but the natives are 
never stimulated to follow their example ; but, 
on the contrary, they dislike them and their 
ways, and if they dared, the intrusive, restless, 
and monopolizing foreigners would quickly be 
expelled from the country. 

The people in general, numbering some- 
where about ten thousand, are mostly low 
Spanish half-breeds, who live in old ruined 
houses and bamboo huts, appearing more igno- 
j rant, indolent, and vicious than any of their 
j race I have ever seen. The moral and social 
| atmosphere of the place speaks strongly of 
I " barbarism ; " even the marriage relation is 
hardly respected or formally observed. 



262 BELIGION. 

Mr. Rowell is making great and praise- 
worthy efforts at reform in this respect, as well 
as others, and he has, to some extent, suc- 
ceeded in introducing the practice of the mar- 
riage rite, and of conjugal faithfulness, while 
there are some indications that public opinion 
will eventually support him. 

The religion of Panama is the lowest phase 
of Romanism. There are a few of the higher 
ranks who are infidels, associating not at all 
with the commonalty or the priests, either in 
society or religious services. Their absence 
from church ceremonies may, perhaps, be plau- 
sibly excused, on the ground of danger ; for the 
few church edifices that continue to be opened 
for use are so ruinous that they seem ready 
to fall, at any moment, upon the heads of the 
deluded worshipers. 

There is reason to hope that this clashing 
of material interests, and the exhibition of 
superior activity, will rouse the inactive Span- 
ish population to efforts worthy their noble 
blood, and of the ancient fame of their grand 
old nation. 

The ghastly specters remaining from Lieu- J 



DISPOSAL OF THE DEAD. 263 

tenant Strain's frightful expedition across the 
Isthmus, have arrived at this place. Such bent 
and feeble frames, such deadly-looking coun- 
tenances, I have never associated with living 
men before. One of the number has died, and 
was followed to his grave in the cemetery by 
a large number. This burial place is a dreary, 
unattractive spot, overrun with briers and 
almost impenetrable thickets of tropical shrubs 
and vines. We have spent considerable time 
in searching out and reading inscriptions upon 
the monuments which affection has sent from 
the United States, to mark the last resting 
place of friends in this remote region. Almost 
all those who have died here are young men, 
in the prime of life, seized and cut off on their 
way to California by the dreaded Isthmus 
fever. 

The native inhabitants, as in Italy, destroy 
the bodies of their dead with quick-lime, cast- 
ing the slender relics into a pit, when the work 
of the caustic is complete. While wandering 
in a solitary and remote spot, I discovered a 
small, blackened, and barren area, which seemed 
to have been used for this purpose. Upon it 



264 ARRIVAL AT SAN FRANCISCO. 

was a small pile of human remains, like moist 
cinders and gray ashes, with here and there a 
fragment of bone — relics of existing bar- 
barism. Notwithstanding so much darkness 
and ignorance, the hope of gain will still influ- 
ence many to come hither, losing sight of 
these forbidding features in the eagerness of 
accumulating wealth, thus confirming the sen- 
timent of the great poet of nature, "How 
quickly the human heart falls to revolt when 
gold becomes its object !" 

June 15th. — In San Francisco at last. It 
was only till the last moment that we were 
able to negotiate for a passage at a rate within 
our means* About seventy-five of our fellow 
Australian voyagers came with us, some of 
whom had money, which they freely dispensed 
to their poorer companions. Such traits of 
noble generosity are more common among the 
large class of roving travelers that have sprung 
up since the gold discoveries, than mauy are apt 
to imagine. It affords pleasant confirmation 
for the belief that in the lowest class of men, 
that is, in the least intelligent and cultivated, 



APPEARANCE OF THE PLACE. 265 

there are yet redeeming qualities, that speak a 
certain native goodness of heart. The voyage 
to San Francisco (usually known, u for short/' 
in California and on the coast, as "Frisco,") oc- 
cupied twelve days and a half, void of incident 
worth noting. The excitement of the passen- 
gers, as we passed within the Golden Gate, 
was intense. Cheer after cheer was given from 
one party and another, evidently prompted by 
pure exultation at reaching the land of gold, 
or at being able to tread American soil once 
more. Many of our company had left Califor- 
nia three years before, to do better in Aus- 
tralia. To such the change in the city must 
have been startling; for where they had left 
long lines and groups of sand hills and barren 
hights, the ground was now leveled and 
graded, streets laid out and crowded with 
houses, churches, and stores. So great was 
the change, so striking the improvement, they 
professed it to be more like an enchanted 
dream than a reality. A range of handsome 
private residences has been shown to me on 
Eincon Point, on both sides of aievel and com- 
modious plank road, and surrounded with beau- 
I 
23 



266 MEETING OF FRIENDS. 

tiful gardens, rich in verdure, whose site had 
been sand hills within three months ; so rapid 
are the works of man, and the operations of 
nature in this region of vivid life and tremen- 
dous energy ! 

We sailed slowly through a forest of masts, 
past a long succession of thronged and busy 
wharves to the steam-ship landing ; and as we 
approached the spot, the immediate vicinity, 
and all the adjacent streets, as far as we could 
see, were one compact mass of men and wo- i 
men, eagerly watching, and impatiently wait- 
ing to welcome friends whom they expected. 
Such a host of anxious countenances are sel- 
dom seen; and as soon as we were within 
hailing distance, handkerchiefs were waving in 
the air from both ship and shore, and innumer- 
able voices were calling each to some friend 
whom they recognized in the crowd. 

Numbers were overcome at the sight of 
loved ones, from whom they had been long 
absent; and when the gang-way was laid down, 
the rush into arms, the tempest of joy and 
grief, laughter and tears, was affecting in a 
high degree, beside being inconvenient almost 



SCENE AT THE POST OFFICE. 267 

to danger. The arrival of the Isthmus steam- 
ers, with their burden of joyous and heavy 
hearts, with their " silent messengers," bearing 
gladness or heaviness to so many more, are 
great events in California. The scene at the 
post office, on these occasions, is almost without 
a parallel in the world. The mail arrange- 
ments are not yet perfected throughout the 
interior, and for this reason, coupled with the 
fact of their wandering, uncertain life, num- 
bers of miners have their letters sent to the 
city, and come thither for them when they are 
due. All the business correspondence also 
comes through these mails, and the result is 
such a pressure at the delivery office as can 
scarcely be conceived. There are several win- 
dows arranged by an alphabetical series of 
initials, and from each of these, by daylight of 
the morning of " steamer days " the line of ex- 
pectants begins to form, and grows continually, 
stretching around for a hundred and fifty rods 
in every conceivable direction, insomuch that a 
bird's-eye view of San Francisco post office, on 
steamer days, would afford no unfair represen- 
tation of California people and their manners. 



268 DELIVERY OF LETTERS. 

Some speculating geniuses take advantage of 
this tedious process to earn money, as Fabius 
saved Italy, by the delay. The rule u first come, 
first served," is rigidly enforced, and they come 
early to the ground, secure a station near the 
window, pretty certain of an opportunity to 
sell their right of succession to some hurried 
or anxious merchant for fiye or ten dollars. 
Often the purchaser can much better afford 
this payment than to waste a whole day, per- 
haps more, in hanging round the office, or 
" standing on a string." A less direct and hon- 
orable mode of evading the difficulty is often 
practiced, which has been the cause of much 
reasonable complaint and annoyance. In Cali- 
fornia women are treated with marked distinc- 
tion and deference, more so than in any other 
country in the world, without exception. Of 
course there is a particular window for them 
at the office, and especially obliging and ac- 
tive clerks ; and in order to avail themselves 
of the advantage, numbers of merchants are 
in the habit of having their letters directed 
to their wives, instead of themselves. Thus 
many a fair agent — sometimes really a wife, 



REFLECTIONS. 269 

and sometimes only a hired substitute for the 
occasion — enables her lord to read his letters 
and act accordingly, many hours before his 
wifeless, less enterprising, or more fair-minded 
competitors. 

What a study is human nature ! How every 
phase of it appears to the traveler — sometimes 
in a manner that elicits profound admiration, 
and again exciting scarcely less than disgust ! 
Nothing very strange if Young had similar 
experience, ere he penned the line, — 

" How abject, how august is man ! " • 

Here to this famed and youthful city I have 
come, with what design I can scarcely tell, — 
not to dig in the bowels of the earth for golderr 
treasures merely, nor to engage in any other 
branch of business in particular, but rather to 
gratify a love of wandering, — hardly any thing 
more definite than to see what there is to be 
seen, and, perchance, become a " doer," provided 
a congenial situation presents itself. 

My money is nearly gone, but I find a wel- 
come home with my brother-in-law, already 
established in this place, and propose to remain 
23* 



270 SAN FRANCISCO BAY. 

to look about the city, and then take a look at 
the northern mines of gold, up the valley of 
the Sacramento, in the skirts of the Sierra 
Nevada. 

20th. — I have been so particularly fortunate 
as to meet in the city an old friend and fellow- 
townsman, who has very kindly acted as my 
guide and conductor to all points of interest in 
and about the city; but these have been so 
generally described by travelers, I shall omit 
extended individual notices, and remark only 
the general features of the city and its loca- 
tion. From Telegraph Hill, the highest point 
in San Francisco, we command a view of the 
whole city and suburbs ; the wharves and ship- 
ping of the whole bay, its islands and shores. 
The city occupies the inner slope of the south- 
ern of those two points, between which is that 
magnificent entrance to the bay, called the 
Golden Gate. To the westward rises the low 
chain of hills which shut out the view of the 
Pacific ; while close beneath us, to the north- 
east, east, -and south-east, spread the streets and 
squares of the city, with their gardens crowning 



EDIFICES. 271 

the whole with peculiar and rare beauty. The 
bay shore is lined with docks, and a great 
crowd of shipping — vessels of all forms and 
sizes, on whose tall masts hundreds of flags, of 
all nations are gently waving in the breeze, 
We can look directly down to Rincon Point, 
through Montgomery Street, while from others 
comes a distinct view of the bay. All the 
grades are easy and even; the streets wide 
and straight ; but it must be confessed the chief 
and characteristic feature of the whole is the 
large number of comfortable houses, surrounded 
with green and pleasant gardens. Among the 
prominent buildings is the substantial and orna- 
mental custom house ; the Romish cathedral, 
conspicuously erected upon the very best lo- 
cation in the city, and several Presbyterian 
churches. Numerous others, smaller and of 
less moment, appear ; but the whole view im- 
presses the observer with an idea of life, vigor, 
and busy enterprise — comparatively in its in- 
fancy, to be sure, but not less decided, inspirit- 
ing, and hopeful for the future, than New York 
with its bay and suburbs. Steamers are con- 
stantly leaving the docks, laden to their utmost 



272 DIFFERING VIEWS OF MEN. 

capacity with freight and passengers, for the 
Sacramento, Stockton, Petaluma, Napa, Sono- 
ma, San Jose, and the Contra-Costa settle- 
ments, in the latter of which farms and country 
houses form an agreeable feature of the land- 
scape. The power of well-directed energy to 
transform the wild places of the earth into a 
garden of beauty, — even a terrestrial para- 
dise, — is fully manifest here. The superficial 
gazer looks upon what human achievement 
hath wrought, and is lost in amazement; the 
man of calculation looks abroad, and revolves 
in his mind some successful scheme by* which' 
his own name will be identified with the in- 
creasing glory ; while the thoughtful, serious 
observer witnesses the scene, and wonders if 
the regenerating influence of truth and right 
will come soon enough, and powerful enough, 
to save it from the doom of proud, imperial 
Rome, in other times. 

Thus, according to the constitution of differ- 
ent minds, are different emotions awakened in 
the beholders of every scene. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

IMPRESSIONS OF LIFE AT SACRAMENTO CITY. — STAY 

AT CAPTAIN PIKE'S HOME. MUD AND DIAMOND 

SPRINGS. — SCHOOL HOUSES. — MAMMOTH TREES. — 
INFLUENCE OF CURIOSITY. 

Sacramento, June 28th. — While rambling 
about the streets of San Francisco, gathering 
information of the mines, I fell in with an old 
shipmate from the Sacusa, Captain Pike, a 
man even more impatient and roving than 
myself. Having become tired of city life, he 
proposed to me to join our forces in an excur- 
sion to the northern mines ; and consenting to 
the arrangement, our small preparations were 
speedily made, and we embarked together on 
the steamer for Sacramento City. The travel 
between the city and the mining districts is 
always large. We had on board several hun- 
dred passengers, and a large quantity of freight. 
On our way across the bay, to the mouth of 

(273) 



2/4 _ ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 

the river, we passed several desolate-looking 
islands and high rocks, rendering the appear- 
ance of the coast barren in the extreme. A 
few miles further distant, the banks were lined 
with low shrubbery and a few trees, while still 
higher the banks were lower and the river 
valley spread out into magnificent meadows 
and low upland, skirted with fine trees of heavy 
timber, and stretching miles away before any 
slope or table-land appeared. Beyond this 
valley, on the west, are the high hills belong- 
ing to the coast range, while far away in the 
opposite direction loomed the distant, snow- 
capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada, limiting 
the view. 

Between the opposite towns of Benicia and 
Martinez, near the mouth of the river, and 
Sacramento City, there are no settlements, ex- 
cept a few already deserted, an occasional 
" ranch," or farm house, and a few huts of the 
wood-cutters. The whole distance from San 
Francisco to this place is one hundred and 
twenty-five miles, only a small matter in this 
K state of magnificent distances." 

As we approached the city, the country 



SACRAMENTO CITY. 275 

grew even more attractive, being higher and 
more diversified. The river reminded me of 
the Upper Mississippi, near St. Paul's, although 
the banks are hardly of sufficient hight to be 
called Huffs. The situation is more inviting, 
at least I fancied I could see this in the de- 
meanor of the heterogeneous crowd of several 
steamers that discharged their living freight 
about the same time. Many of them seemed 
to step on shore with a sort of satisfied air, as 
if they owned the land; with something of 
the pride of proprietorship in the air of in- 
dependence with which they sallied up the 
streets to obtain breakfast before leaving for 
the mines. We landed about sunrise, with the 
intention of making the tour of the city be- 
fore breakfast, but after wandering a mile or 
two, found it not to be in exact accordance 
with the clamorous voice of the physical man. 
The city is laid out on a level plain, with wide, 
straight streets, at right angles, lettered alpha- 
betically one way, and numbered ordinarily 
the other, making it very convenient for find- 
ing strange places. The streets are already 
laid out to distances almost incredible for so 



276 FUTURE GREATNESS. 

young a city, and can be extended, if neces- 
sary, many miles each way, over the level 
ground of the vast natural park which lies 
around its site at the confluence of the Sacra- 
mento Kiver and the American Fork. There 
are not wanting men who imagine themselves 
endowed with prophetic vision, who are for- 
ward in predicting that Sacramento will soon 
be the second city in California, and one of 
the handsomest in the United States — predic- 
tions that seem quite probable, considering the 
extreme beauty of its locality, the judicious 
plan upon which it has been commenced, and 
its great commercial advantages as the chief 
depot for the mining districts. It seems to 
me a place of much less show and excitement ; 
society resting upon a more permanent basis 
than in San Francisco. The people seem more 
like fixed inhabitants of an old city, having 
established churches, schools, markets, and 
places of amusement. I am surprised to find 
no small number of enterprising young men, 
emigrants from my own native town, settled 
in or near the city, doing a flourishing business, 
or engaged in the grand, primeval art of agri- 



VISIT TO THE RANCH. 277 

culture. I have also had a pleasing surprise 
in meeting Mrs. Haynes, my Australian friend, 
who came on before me, and is now settled 
and happy at home in Sacramento, fully pre- 
pared to appreciate the comparative comforts 
and luxuries of this adopted home, after the 
hardships and privations of life in Australia. 

29th. — After a few days of enjoyment pecu- 
liar to Sacramento, we were ready for a pedes- 
trian excursion to French Creek, thence across 
the Sierra Nevada to Gold Canon in Carson Val- 
ley, the last named and furthest point being 
nearly four hundred miles from San Francisco. 
On the second day, at evening, we reached 
Captain Pike's own homestead, a ranch in the 
neighborhood of French Creek, which is a 
branch of the American Fork of Sacramento 
River, and about fifty miles from the city of 
the same name. The captain found his ten- 
ants still occupying his house and farm, but 
was a good deal chagrined at finding much of 
his good, arable land turned upside down; 
disfigured with holes and ditches by the mi- 
ners. Proprietorship is no defense in Califor- 
24 



278 MINING. 

nia against this class of men. Where there is 
gold, a mining claim is paramount to every 
other, and each man may stake out and work 
his twenty feet square, if it destroys growing 
crops, orchards, or undermines the very hearth- 
stone at your feet ; — at least, he witt, and it 
makes very little difference whether he may. 
Stopping here a little time, we went up and 
down the creek, with an eye to the " yellow " 
discoveries, but found little to encourage us, 
although we usually obtained our twelve and 
a half cents per pan, which is generally reck- 
oned the minimum rate at which working is 
profitable. Here we formed an acquaintance 
with a young man, who owned a horse, and 
upon learning our intention of pursuing the 
journey further, he proposed to join us — an 
offer which we were glad to accept, as thus our 
packs might be transported and our progress 
much facilitated. Our route lay up the valley 
of French Creek, where the scenery was inter- f 
esting and beautiful, beside being much more 
cultivated than we expected. "We saw nice 
farms, large, substantial-looking farm houses, f 
fields frequently of many acres in extent, and 



VALLEY OF FRENCH CREEK. 279 

fertile gardens here and there between groves 
of oak or pine. As we passed onward up the 
valley, the cultivated fields, the gently sloping 
hills, with their groves of oak, and occasional 
patches of manzanita or hazel shrubbery, grad- 
ually disappeared. Our path was constantly 
ascending from the time we left Sacramento. 
The mountains of the Sierra were directly be- 
fore us, and with every mile the deep canons ; 
dark and rugged ravines grew more numer- 
ous, and all the scenery assumed more of the 
wild and picturesque beauty which is so char- 
acteristic of the country. Nevertheless, along 
the banks of the many small and rapid streams 
of pure water which here flow down from the 
mountains, excellent situations for towns and 
villages are abundant. The narrow valleys 
and mountain slopes are rich both in vegetable 
and mineral productions ; and the few ranches 
scattered about here and there have already 
fully proved the unsurpassed productiveness 
of the soil, and its fitness for agriculture. If 
nature has any thing to do with bodily and 
jmental development, these mountain sides 

jmay, at no distant day, be peopled with a 

i 
I 

I 



280 SPANISH FLAT. 

numerous and mighty race. Some few miles 
from our starting place, we came out upon 
Spanish Flat, a secluded, level valley, hemmed 
in on all sides by lofty mountains, except 
where its natural drainage flowed out through 
a narrow gorge, forming the head waters of 
French Creek. 

This isolated and beautiful spot takes its 
name from a small number of old Spanish 
families, who have occupied it for many years, 
living peacefully and contentedly in their pas- 
toral simplicity and wealth. Their descendants 
would have remained upon the soil in like 
manner, had not the gold-hunting excitement, 
with its reckless adventurers, forced a way into 
this distant retreat. Now the Spaniards have! 
joined the invaders in digging and trading;! 
the banks of their pleasant little forest stream 
are torn up and dug down, and its channel! 
turned into a new bed ; most of the trees andi 
shrubbery have been cut down; houses andf 
stores have been erected upon the mountain 
sides ; a busy thoroughfare winds onward into 
the mountains, through narrow passes and steepi 
cliffs ; and the white tents of the miners, under 




JRLCH, CALIFORNIA. 



SLY DIGGINGS. 281 

oaks and pines, dot all the neighborhood. I 
have found much pleasure in wandering alone 
about these forests and mountains, more in de- 
lighting myself with the wild grandeur of the 
scenery than in canvassing for gold, which was 
my ostensible errand. 

I have strolled up and down the place, peer- 
ing into every canon and valley, finding every 
where the marks of those who had made unsuc- 
cessful experiments and passed onward. Sev- 
eral times I have come upon secret places com- 
pletely hidden among the mountains, that were 
occupied by two or three miners, and some- 
times by a single, solitary man. These places 
are technically styled & sly diggings," and their 
locality is concealed with extreme care by 
their occupants, who hold them for years to- 
gether, patiently working from one end to the 
other, and venturing out for supplies only by 
night, or by circuitous and concealed routes, 
for fear others might discover their hiding 
place, and share their good fortune. Some of 
these I judged to be making four or five dol- 
lars a day. Their professed object is to remain 
till they have accumulated a "certain pile." 
24* 



282 MUD SPRINGS SETTLEMENT. 

But in all probability some of tbem will find 
their graves in these remote regions. 

Mud Springs, a little further on, is a large 
mining town of perhaps twenty-five hundred 
souls, near to which many thousands of 
miners are at work, scattered for miles in all 
directions at the shallow diggings. There is a 
fair prospect of employment in these mines for 
a number of years, and it operates as an in- 
ducement to the erection of substantial build- 
ings and to general improvement. Most of 
the inhabitants seem to have made their money 
moderately, and are quietly and permanently 
settled, with their families. There are one or 
two fine churches, and several good school 
houses; the latter being erected usually by 
the young men of the vicinity — partly from 
the disinterested motive of doing good to those 
who have families, and partly from the desire 
of having a place for singing schools, evening 
meetings, political assemblies, or any gathering 
or occasion of interest which might tend^to 
vary the monotony of the miner's life. 

At several points upon our route we had 
noticed, perched upon the top of some specially 



SCHOOL-HOUSE CHURCHES. 283 

prominent hill, like the Temple of Science in the 
frontispiece of Webster's spelling-book, one of 
these old-fashioned school houses. On one oc- 
casion our attention was arrested by a shouting 
from one of these hills, and looking up, we saw 
twenty or thirty boys and girls rushing from 
their prison, in such a tumult of noisy glee, 
that our momentary impression was, that some- 
thing extraordinary had happened. The next 
moment assured us it was noon, and we passed 
on, full of the recollections of youth, and the 
glorious liberty of school-boy days. 

Throughout a great part of the mining coun- 
try the school houses are the only churches. 
In them the itinerant preachers, from one and 
another denomination, fulfil an occasional ap- 
pointment, preaching to closely-attentive and 
keenly-appreciative audiences, though not vast 
in numbers or magnificent in dress. The 
young men, who usually form the congrega- 
tion, have nothing but their mining apparel ; 
but they are scrupulously clean. No custom 
on earth is more rigorously observed than the 
sailor's and miner's weekly ablutions and clean 
shirt, even if the wearer has had to wash it him- 









284 DIAMOND SPRINGS. 

self ; and go without any until it was dry. Thus 
cleansed and clad, the miner feels at once 
good-natured and independent, and prepared to 
give a preacher a cordial and respectful wel- 
come, beside paying him bountifully for his 
labor. These occasional ministrations are en- 
joyed with the double zest of home associations 
refreshed, and monotonous drudgery relieved, 
over and above the pleasure coming from their , 
sympathy in the solemn services, as Christian ^ 
men. 

Two miles beyond Mud Springs is Diamond 
Springs — a town of similar character and some- j] 
what larger size. Between the two places | 
there exists a rivalry and jealousy of consider- [ 
able bitterness and activity, made evident to } 
us even in our transient stay, by sneering and 
depreciating remarks in each at the expense of 
the other. The result of our observations in 
this part of our route is, that the miners are a 
jovial and happy class, living carelessly and at| 
their ease, although at times they know some-), 
thing of hard labor. . p 

The roads here are rough and rather diffi-lj 
cult, but pass through a portion of country 



SNAKES ABUNDANT. 285 

'; thick set with lovely mountain scenery. Our 
! path is beset with snakes, which are extremely 
| numerous in California. We sometimes see a 
dozen rattlesnakes in the course of a day, be- 
I side a plenty of a species of adder with a horn 
! in their tail, that are said to sting instead of 
! bite ; also a thick-bodied, large-headed snake, 
| here ridiculously called a bulbuls." These, how- 
; ever, seem to be harmless, and we have accus- 
tomed ourselves to them. From these springs 
we proceeded in a straightforward direction, 
and camped the same night under some tall 
red-wood pines, the beginning of the celebrated 
forests of mammoth trees, that stretch through 
El Dorado and Calaveras counties. Close at 
hand was a spring of clear water, and abun- 
dance of good grass for our invaluable, silent 
partner — the old gray horse. The next day we 
journeyed in the shade of these gigantic trees. 
The day was exceedingly fine, and the moun- 
tain scenery magnificent and ever-varying, but 
the trees absorbed our whole attention. We 
were prepared to see a few of these leviathan 
cedars, but to travel miles through forests of 
them was a perfect wonder and surprise to us. 



286 GIGANTIC TREES. 

"We had traveled through many forests before, f 
and seen much that was impressive, and even 
indescribable ; but a grove of their trees, though 
of uncommon size, placed by these monsters, 
would be like shrubs and bushes in compari- 
son ; even their topmost boughs would not 
reach half way to the lowest branches of these. 
These vast and silent forms oppressed and 
awed us, and we walked on in their broad 
shadows in reverential silence. It was as if 
we were transplanted into another world, and [ 
another language than ours was necessary to 
describe the place or its impressions. The 
trunk of one by which we sat down to rest 
ourselves was quite smooth and free from I 
limbs, knots, or blemishes of any kind. It 
rose in one fair, gigantic column, about two 
hundred feet, and from that hight its enormous { 
cone-shaped head towered away aloft until it 
seemed to reach the clouds. Such descriptions ' 
— in fact, any description — must fail entirely 
of giving any idea of the truth. It may serve 
a somewhat better purpose in assisting the [ 
imagination to remind the reader that no 
church spire in the United States would nearly 



A SECRET VALLEY. 287 

equal these trees in hight — that there are very 
few whose " weather-cock " would even reach 
the lowest branches. 

One night we spent in " Sly Park/' another 
of the characteristic secret valleys of this 
region, far beyond any human habitation, sur- 
rounded by lofty mountains, seemingly without 
an opening. The level space within, and the 
slopes around, were carpeted with bright, wild 
flowers, of nature's own planting, while here 
and there stood a group or single tree of the 
famous red-wood; and at their feet a limpid 
stream of pure, cold, mountain water. As we 
relieved our weary horse of his burden, and 
prepared our meal with the keen appetites of 
wandering men, the solitude seemed almost 
sacred, and thought went back to the days of 
primeval innocence, when earth was arrayed 
in its early brightness and glory, uncursed by 
sin, giving neither signs nor sounds of woe. 
Such reflections were broken, however, by the 
consideration of necessary precautions against 
the wild beasts that swarm throughout the 
| California mountains ; and, kindling a large 
i fire against the huge dry trunk of a fallen 



288 A NATURAL PARK. 

cedar, and another a few rods distant, we laid ' 
ourselves down in the space between, lulled to 
sleep by the low music of the wind through 
the tops of the trees, and the distant howling 
of the wild denizens of the forest. 

We woke early, refreshed and invigorated i 
by our " siesta " in the pure, mountain air, and j 
by sunrise were pursuing our journey through 
this valley, which is probably the finest natu- 
ral park in the world; being very extensive, j 
including within its circuit of many miles a 
complete system of gentle hills and valleys of i 
its own. These vales are broad and open, of \ 
easy slant, and covered with flowers, one va- I 
riety standing in a bed by itself, and another \ 
in like manner further on. Except the tower- ! 
ing cedars, there are scarcely any trees, and \ 
the view of these kings of the wood is perfect, j 
there being no obstruction from undergrowth j 
or shrubbery. It is almost impossible to es- ! 
cape a humiliating and painful impression of 
our own utter insignificance in the presence ! 
of these ancient giants, by whose side the 
chestnut of Mount Etna, the cypress of Lom- 
bardy, and the great Baobab of Teneriffe are 



CHARACTER OF THE INDIANS. 289 

infants in age ; and even the ruins of the 
monuments of the elder races of men are but 
youthful. It is even affirmed by some that the 
largest of them have stood for a period dating 
further back than the creation of man. Some- 
times we would meet a group of these trees 
standing like a family — the tall and graceful 
form of the parent surrounded by a cluster of 
half a dozen children growing up symmetrically 
around her; and again would appear a little 
dell formed by three or four flowery slopes, 
and occupied by one solitary and majestic tree. 
We have met some fallen ruins, that have 
either been uprooted by mighty tempests or 
destroyed by fires, probably built by the In- 
dians, who take great delight in this secluded 
valley. We have met none of them thus far, 
they being shy and unfriendly mountain tribes 
of Pah-Utahs and Wah-satch, (usually called 
Waw-shaws.) The only Indians in the lower 
country are the few and scattered families of 
the filthy and unsightly " Diggers," who seem 
to me even below the Australian natives in 
intelligence and ability. That they are not re- 
markable for either high spirit or intelligence 
25 



290 MOUNTAIN PASSES. 

is manifest from the fact, that a certain Mis- 
sourian emigrant, settled in the valley of the 
Sacramento, actually enslaved quite a number 
of them; not, indeed, subjecting them to the 
rough field-hand discipline and severe labor of 
the plantation, but giving them "quarters" 
around his mansion, requiring their services, 
with no reward but some scanty stipend in 
such manner as he chose. But this probably 
was far superior to their native, squalid filth, 
grub- eating, root-digging bill of fare. 

The Sierra Nevada ranges, north and south, 
form the boundary line, in this region, between 
California and Utah. Upon its eastern side, 
and separated from us by its whole width, is 
Carson Valley, extending along under the Si- 
erra a hundred miles or more. 

The great emigrant road across the plains 
comes in at the northern, widest and lowest 
end of this valley, proceeds south to its ex- 
tremity among the mountains, and then turn- 
ing westward, leads over the Sierra into Cali- 
fornia. Not far from the point where this 
road comes in from the desert, a trail called 
the " Johnson Cut-off" turns west, crosses the 



GRAND SCENERY. 291 

mountain, and reaches the valley of the Sacra- 
mento by a route shorter than the main road, 
but more difficult. From this there diverges 
a still more obscure and difficult path, called 
the Georgetown Trail, which our desire for 
adventure, and determination to realize the 
whole of mountain experience, inclined us to 
follow. As we ascended higher, the scenery 
grew wild and grand at every step, with steep 
and rugged mountain slopes — fantastic and 
endlessly varied forms of crag and pinnacle, 
interspersed with a growth of trees so thick 
and strong we wondered they could find room 
and nutriment. Vestiges of the hardships of 
a former company, who traveled in this diffi- 
cult place, are still observed, consisting of ax- 
marks and branches hewn off at a hight of 
about forty feet from the ground in some 
large trees. The condition of these was de- 
scribed to us by a judge in El Dorado, himself 
one of the company. 

The party, numbering nearly a hundred per- 
sons, had come across the plain in the season 
of 1849, rather late, but still in time to cross 
the Sierra before the fall of the deep, impass- 



292 SUFFERINGS OF THE EMIGRANTS. 

able snows in any ordinary season. The snow 
suddenly set in, however, with uncommon 
severity, just before they reached Carson Val- 
ley. Supposing it would not impede their 
march, and beside, being unprepared to win- 
ter in the valley, if it had been thought ne- 
cessary, they proceeded, taking the Johnson 
Cut-off to save time. They found the trail 
nearly impassable, and a succession of fearful 
storms continued to assail them on their way. 
By dint of almost superhuman effort, and after 
several days of dreadful suffering, they suc- 
ceeded in crossing the crest of the Sierra, but 
were yet involved in the labyrinth of ravines 
and precipices in its upper western portion, 
when another storm of snow put an end to 
their march. Here they burrowed holes for 
lodging, and remained for weeks, helpless and 
starving, until forty of their number were dead. 
At this juncture the living gathered strength 
even from desperation, and succeeded in break- 
ing through to the settlements, and rallying 
an expedition to rescue the ghastly remainder. 
The marks of the ax in various trees were 
made in cutting their fire-wood, creeping about 
upon the snow. 



PERILOUS SITUATION. 293 

Our circuitous path led here and there over 
a saddle-like notch between a tree and the 
steep hill side ; sometimes along a sharp, nar- 
row crest of rock, forming a kind of table to 
some loftier mass, and again along the face of 
smooth, bare slopes of granite. Often it was 
marked only by faintly worn footsteps in the 
rock; sometimes it was deep with slippery 
s,tone dust, wirile we could hear, faintly, the 
roaring of the mountain torrent, rushing thou- 
sands of feet beneath us, where it was hidden 
in the dense shrubbery that bordered the dark 
and narrow chasm. For long distances to- 
gether it would have been an utter impossi- 
bility for another beast to have passed ours. 
Necessity compelled us to keep a constant 
watch over each step of our own, for the 
slightest stumble, or even a dizzy or doubtful 
movement, would have consigned us to certain 
destruction. We speculated much as to what 
could have induced any human being to at- 
tempt such a route ; much- more to undertake 
the first passage over it with a laden beast. 
It must undoubtedly have been traversed by 
the wild animals of the forest at first ; then, 
25* 



294 ASCENDING THE PEAK. 

perhaps, by observant and agile Indians; by 
venturesome, athletic, and ligh1>armed moun- 
tain men; and last of all, by foolish, reckless 
Yankees, like ourselves. After much difficulty 
we landed upon a wild spot directly upon the 
breast of the mountain, where we could see 
the highest peak towering above our heads, 
partly hidden by the fleecy clouds that went 
floating past it. I proposed to my compan- 
ions to ascend the peak, which we did, with 
much less difficulty than we had anticipated, 
over boulders, ledges, and shelving rocks, till 
we stood upon an eminence nearly twenty thou- 
sand feet high, commanding an almost bound- 
less view of valleys, mountains, forests, lakes, 
and streams, with a perpendicular descent on 
one side of several thousand feet. It required 
strong and steady nerves to look down, or 
even to stand upon the place. 

After descending from the mountain, we dis- 
covered some small ponds and hot springs of 
alkaline water, apparently proceeding from 
sources within a high mountain of volcanic 
formation in the vicinity, whose substance, 
upon examination, clearly seemed a very hard 



POWER OF CURIOSITY. 295 

species of lava. By way of experiment, I 
plunged my hand into one of these springs, 
and found, as a reward of my scientific zeal, 
the burning of my fingers and ridicule of my 
"companions. 

Scarcely is there a stronger principle in the 
mind of man than "mvtiosity. For this he will 
endure the burning heat of equatorial regions, 
brave the rigors of the polar seas, and trav- 
erse the wildest land in uninhabited parts, and 
that in a most uncomfortable manner, with a 
little commingling of pride, perhaps, that he 
may have the satisfaction of proclaiming to 
others the fact of having placed his foot on 
soil that mortal man beside had never trod. 
Such tireless energy enlisted in moral reforms, 
and how soon this world would a bloom as 
the rose." 



CHAPTER XIV. 

MORMON REFUGEES. VISIT GOLD CANON. — EX- 
PERIENCE AMONG THE MO 1 1INS. NIGHT IN THE 

HERMIT'S CAVE. RETURN TO FRENCH CREEK. 

Our wild, rugged, and winding path, that 
led us to the Mormon trading post, was not an 
unapt emblem of the dangerous, deceitful, and 
wily stratagems of this deluded people. We 
found a large emigrant train from Salt Lake 
City — about a hundred large, covered wagons, 
with an average of five yoke of cattle to 
each. They had halted for a day's rest on 
their way to California, this being the first 
spot this side the Desert where they could 
obtain supplies of grass and water. Many of 
them were Mormons, who had forsaken their 
earthly Canaan, tired, disgusted, and robbed 
of all their worldly possessions ; having man- 
aged to escape in company with a Western 
emigrant train, thankful to get away alive. 

(296; 



MORMON REFUGEES. 297 

Were they to return to the land they had left, 
they would doubtless be murdered, for the 
chief axiom of their paradisiac polity is, that 
" dead men tell no tales." 

We heard from the lips of these refugees 
many sickening details of their Mormon 
experience. Some of them had repeatedly 
endeavored to escape from the dominions of 
their tyrannical rulers, but without success, for 
the dissatisfied are closely watched, and not 
permitted to leave the premises at all. Making 
due allowance for exaggeration, arising from 
excitement and anger, these stories, which fully 
agreed in all general respects, indicated a state 
of things forbidding and terrible in the ex- 
treme, in their community, especially in regard 
to the abject mental servitude which they 
were obliged to render while they remained. 
How human beings can be made to believe 
the absurd articles of the Mormon creed, and 
to submit to the rule of such miserable, un- 
principled leaders, it passes my understanding 
to conceive. These poor fellows seemed to 
contemplate with peculiar satisfaction the 
prospect of speedily entering a land of peace 



298 THE SEASONS. CROPS. 

and plenty, where they could have the right 
of securing to themselves quiet and pleasant 
homes, to be enjoyed without the fear of being 
molested by a brutal tyrant. 

30th. — After our wearisome march, we are 
glad to rest a little at the station. It is now 
the last of June, and the gardens about here 
are just beginning to look well. Corn and 
potatoes are just breaking through the ground, 
and wheat and other grain are about a foot 
high. The seasons in this valley are so 
changeable, that no dependence can be placed 
upon having a full crop of any kind. In gen- 
eral, however, a sufficient quantity of grain 
and vegetables are raised to supply the wants 
of the few scattered traders who alone in- 
habit the valley, beside having a small surplus 
to sell to emigrants. The water is miserable 
throughout the valley, with the exception of 
one or two small streams, that flow down from 
the mountains; and even these grow warm 
and alkaline before they proceed far from the 
heated alkaline sands through which they pass. 
During the whole time we were on the main [ 



SPURIOUS VISITORS. 299 

emigrant trail, we were never out of sight of 
dead cattle, poisoned by the water, which has 
no very strong taste, and which they drink as 
eagerly as any other. 

Beside the creature comforts of grass and 
water, we have found company in two hard- 
looking young men, who have been here sev- 
eral days, waiting, as they say, for some train 
from Horse-town. This latter place, and an- 
other similar to it, called Rag-town, are stations 
eighty or a hundred miles distant from this 
place, just on the edge of the Desert — rendez- 
vous, both of them, for thieves and all manner 
of frontier vagabonds, who hang about hoping 
to find treasures in robbing those who pass 
their way. The business of our two young 
friends is doubtless of the same character. 
The meager willows along the brook not af- 
fording us sufficient shelter to camp under, we 
have been obliged, as often before in Australia, 
to sleep with the earth for a bed, and the 
starry heavens for a canopy, and without a 
fire, notwithstanding the danger of wild beasts' 
company is still imminent. The weather is 
excessively hot. To this we are particularly 



300 CARSON VALLEY SINK. 

sensitive, so great is the contrast between the 
deep, sandy roads, open to the burning rays of 
the sun, and our- preceding journey among 
lofty mountains, frequently under the shade of 
trees, varied with an occasional snow bank. 
Yesterday, soon after sunset, it began to grow 
cold ; the wind changed, and instead of blow- 
ing from the eastward, across the heated sands 
of the desert, it came down from the chilly 
mountain tops, changing the atmosphere sud- 
denly, and rendering us very uncomfortable. 
Upon rising this morning we found the water 
frozen in our tin cups — a curious instance of 
the rapid and extreme variation of tempera- 
ture, to which the peculiar nature and position 
of this valley, close beneath the snowy Sierra 
on one side, and the hot desert on the other, 
subject it. 

Large portions of the northern part of the 
valley consist of low, marshy tracts, often called 
" Carson Valley Sink," in which the river of the 
same name spreads and loses itself. In the 
summer these dry up, and become, as it were, 
sheets of white alkali, — soda or nitre, — as hard 
and smooth as ceiling. The former of these sub- 



GOLD CANON. 301 

stances is quite extensively used in California 
for cooking, and various domestic purposes, and 
serves very well. 

We have visited Gold Canon, some miles 
distant down the river, where we expected to 
find many miners at work, but were disap- 
pointed in learning that nearly all of them had 
left for California the year before, water having 
failed them. About fifty, of more daring spirit 
than the rest, remained, but were finally frozen 
in and compelled to stay through the winter. 
They established themselves in houses of slabs, 
procured a quantity of fuel, and made them- 
selves as comfortable as possible without any 
communication across the mountains ; early in 
the spring recommenced digging, and had only 
recently left for California, at the commence- 
ment of the present dry season. Only two or 
three were left; one an aged man, gleaning 
about on old claims, scarcely making more than 
a living, and ready to leave at any time. This 
canon is a narrow ravine, fifteen or twenty 
miles in length, stretching up westward from 
Carson Valley, among the lower hills that skirt 
the range. No canvassing had been done fur- 
26 



302 A NEW ACQUAINTANCE. 

ther up than three miles, for fear of the Wah- 
satch or Wau-shaw Indians, and we dared 
venture a little further ourselves. It is a 
strange rift, often not more than twenty yards 
wide at the bottom, and frequently overhung 
on both sides with projecting masses of lava, 
in many curious forms, apparently thus con- 
gealed while in motion from some volcanic 
crater. In the distance these black, bulging 
masses appeared like solidified thunder clouds, 
on the point of closing over the chasm. Of 
such extreme hardness is the rock, we had 
great difficulty in breaking off a few of the 
small cubes, into which its substance seems to 
have crystallized. 

I have made some excursions, in company 
with a young German, with whom I have be. 
come acquainted, who has been at work in the 
mines — a smart, active fellow, formerly em. 
ployed in the adventurous business of carrying 
the United States' mail through the enemy's 
country during the Mexican war. In one in. 
stance, we met some traders who gave us such 
a desperate account of the place we intended 
to visit, and of the wretches who gathered 



RUBIES. 303 

there, we concluded it was best to abandon the 
undertaking and return. In a small hollow, 
out of sight except on very near approach, we 
found some deserted Indian huts, though hav- 
ing the appearance of being occupied until 
quite recently. We also discovered a solitary 
Yankee established in a little "shanty," near 
the emigrant trail, where he was dispensing 
manna in the wilderness from a stand, in the 
shape of ginger cakes, small beer, and sarsa- 
parilla. Business in his line, however, seems 
not very brisk, and he appeared anxious to 
sell out. 

A young man employed as clerk at a trading 
post, near us, has shown me quite a quantity of 
small rubies, procured at a canon sixty miles 
down the valley. He proposes to unite in an 
expedition for the purpose of enriching our- 
selves with more of these sparkling treasures, 
but as the neighborhood is remote from any 
white settlement or trading post, and is, more- 
over, dangerously infested with hostile tribes 
of Indians, I decline. Beside, I am weary with 
this desultory exploration. I have seen enough 
of this barren and inhospitable region, and am 



304 DEPARTURE FROM CARSON VALLEY. 

disposed, yea, more, determined, to go back to 
Sacramento, let others do as they may. 

July 15th. — The use of the pen has been 
an entirely impracticable thing during the 
lonely and protracted wanderings in which I 
have recently been engaged ; therefore the lei- 
sure that follows must atone for all. When our 
little company came together among the moun- 
tains, to consult upon the matter of returning 
to civilized society, they promised to be ready 
on the next day ; but feeling disinclined at the 
appointed time, I expressed my intention of i 
going at any rate ; at which a council was 
called, and an equitable division of our scanty ! 
stock of tea and flour made for the emergenc}^ j 

To this my German friend added a grateful l 
memorial of his friendship in the shape of a I 
piece of ham and a small quantity of tea. 
Thus supplied, I shook hands with my com- L 
panions, bade them adieu, and set out to return I, 
to Sacramento alone, across the mountains, by ' 
the tremendous Georgetown trail — a danger- [ 
ous trip, not only from the difficulties of the 
route, but also from the risk of meeting blood- 



A PERILOUS UNDERTAKING. 305 

thirsty Indians. But I had seen enough and to 
spare of Carson Valley, and longed to get back 
into the embrace of friends, and a less moun- 
tainous country, though I had not been with- 
out enjoyment of Nature in her most wild and 
rugged aspects. So, with the perfect reckless- 
ness of a genuine mountain man, I hazarded 
my life to gratify my desire, beside failing 
somewhat in consistency ; for all three of us 
had avowed most strenuously, a short time 
before, that no possible consideration could 
induce us to travel over the road again. In 
like manner seamen in a storm, or peculiarly 
rough voyage, often declare nothing will ever 
tempt them to make another voyage, and then 
ship again almost the moment they get home. 
Indeed, I have heard it urged, with some 
plausibility, that men are very likely to do 
precisely that which they agree and determine 
within themselves not to do, and that this 
is the practical statement of the doctrine of 
an "overruling providence." Having journeyed 
twelve miles on my homeward way, I over- 
took a man traveling in the same direction, 
evidently of the Anglo-Saxon race, wiry and 
26* 



306 ESCAPE FROM RATTLESNAKES. 

tall, with brown hair, blue eyes, leathern gar- 
ments throughout, and a rifle. As we were con- 
versing together on the way, he told me that he 
had lived two years in the valley, and was now 
on his way to his place of abode, a few miles 
from the trail, up a canon in the mountains, i 
He gave me a pressing invitation to spend the ( 
night with him, promising that I should lose 
nothing by leaving the route, as he would take 
me to it in the morning by a shorter cut. 
Upon these terms I accepted, and after walk- 
ing on the road an hour or two, we turned off j 
toward the Sierra, gradually ascending through ! 
a rolling country, covered with sage-bush, and 
swarming with rattlesnakes. 

Once, as I stooped to gather some bright- ! 
yellow * everlasting," I put my face within six 
Inches of one of these venomous creatures, j 
and only sprang backward at the sound of the j 
rattles in season to save myself from its poi- 
sonous fangs. A little further on, as I was 
earnestly engaged in conversation, my stalwart j 
companion suddenly seized me by the shoulder, | 
and threw me very unceremoniously some dis- 
tance into the bushes. A thought instantly j 



MOUNTAIN PRECIPICES. 307 

flashed across my mind that he had .enticed me 
into these wilds to murder me, but I was soon 
assured it was only a friendly rudeness, to save 
me from the unfortunate step I was about to 
take, which would have planted me directly 
on one of these unwelcome foes. Rattlesnakes, 
in my opinion, are like many human beings — 
'? handsome, kit hateful" 

After a little time, we entered a dark and 
narrow ravine, through which ran a stream 
of pure ice-water from the top of the moun- 
tain, which here towered almost perpendicu- 
larly over our heads. The scenery was of a 
peculiar character, somewhat new to me; the 
rocks being exceedingly steep and craggy, 
often forming large, overhanging cliffs and 
precipices, from whose crevices grew trees and 
dense shrubbery. The path grew more steep 
and rugged at every step. For a full half 
mile we climbed a gigantic natural staircase 
of shelving rocks, whose foundations were laid 
in the bottom of the chasm, and so steep and 
| slippery as to require great care and exertion 
jto prevent one's self from falling over back- 
!ward. At this point the pathway beyond 



308 A ROMANTIC CAVE. 

seemed to lose all appearance of regularity, and ' 
disappear entirely among the huge rocks and 
cliffs by the side of the dashing torrent. Still 
we toiled on, a distance that seemed to me, in 
my exhausted state, not less than ten miles, 
but probably not more than two or three. 

At last I pleaded for rest, for strength and 
breath seemed well nigh gone, and further f 
effort seemed vain and useless. He revived 
my drooping spirits by assuring me it was 
only a few rods ahead, or rather overhead, for, ' 
upon looking up, it was evident we could pro- 
ceed but a little distance, for we were entering l ( 
a vast cave, whose rocky roof met over us." 
With one more earnest effort we were at the ' 
vestibule of my friend's mansion — a strange f 
and wild abode in truth. 

It was walled and roofed with the living f 
rock, while its exterior was gracefully and| 
elaborately adorned with festoons and pen-' 
dants of thick-trailing plants, growing from 1 ' 
every crevice. Within, the smooth stone floor 
supported natural divans, of the same solid 
material, which served for store rooms, seats, i 
and bed. In one side was a recess, which' 



APPEARANCE OF THE CAVE. 309 

! served for a fireplace, above which a natural 
I outlefc formed a commodious chimney, Close 
I beside the grand arched door-way, a waterfall 
poured over a cliff, almost hidden by thick 
| foliage, furnishing a perennial fountain of pure, 
I cold water. On either side of the stream, and 
1 above us as far as I could see in the shades of 
| the evening, the sharp, craggy rocks projected 
in such wise as to render it an evident impos- 
sibility for man or beast to reach us in any 
other way but by the path we came. While 
my host was busy in household matters, I 
bathed my heated head, neck, and hands in 
the cool, dashing stream, and sat down outside 
to indulge in a few moments of repose and ro- 
mance. The evening was clear and warm, 
the scene almost one of enchantment for wild- 
ness and beauty. As I sat gazing out into 
the darkness at the dim rocks, I could hear 
the chirping of crickets, and the voice of a 
whip-poor-will, mingled with the incessant dash 
of the roaring waterfall. The moon rose upon 
me at length with its clear, silvery light, dis- 
playing with considerable distinctness the long 
vista of the rugged gorge through which we 



310 WILD BEASTS. 

had ascended, and further on a portion of j 
the plain below. 

All at once I was aroused from my reverie 
by the howling of wild beasts, seemingly close 
at hand. " Don't be alarmed," said my host, 
perceiving my trepidation ; " the beasts could i 
not reach us, if they wished to, without going f 
all the way to the plain, and coming up the f 
canon ; and they are not likely to take all that i 
trouble for us. Beside, I should not have k 
brought you so far up the mountain just to ! 
expose you to wild beasts." Conjecture was 
busy as to what could have induced him to I 
select such a remote and inaccessible home, so ■'■ 
far from any human being, without even a 
dog for a companion, in absolute solitude, ex- 
cept the invisible animals, whose dismal yells 
kept up a constant serenade. Something of* 
his history, and the reasons of such conduct, 
were finally divulged in the course of conver- 
sation. He had discovered the cave a year and 
a half before, while rambling in the mountains, 
and had occupied it ever since. He was k 
originally from an eastern city, formerly held ? 
a good social position, was a man of consider- f 

i. 



THE SOLITAIRE. 311 

able cultivation, unmistakable marks of which 
were apparent, and his conversation showed 
much familiarity with books. He had a few 
with him, his favorite being " Pope's Essay on 
Man," and " Zimmerman on Solitude." Trouble 
and disappointment had driven him from his 
early home. The tender affections of his heart 
had been blighted, and he sought relief only 
in the silent sympathy of nature. A poor 
antidote, methought, for sorrow, to flee into 
deserts and caves, existing without human so- 
ciety; and indeed, my host showed that soli- 
tude has not its full sweetness without some- 
body to whom to say that it is sweet. He 
urged me to remain with him, and share with 
him his occupations and his castle ; but think- 
ing it unfavorable to the development of true 
character in any sense, I could not think of it. 
I felt more like saying, with all the earnest- 
ness of the captive exile, — 

" O Solitude ! where are the charms 
That sages have seen in thy face ? " 

'Said sages, however, might have seen but few 
icharms, had the sharp eyes of grizzly bears 
jpeered at them over rocks, and disturbed them 
in their slumbers by their howling cries. 



312 the hermit's entertainment. 

We lay down to rest, for the night, upon a 
bed of buffalo robes, soothed to. sleep by the 
voice of the waterfall, and early next morning 
the hermit prepared his breakfast of tea, hard 
bread, and fried ham. The mountain air was 
clear, cool, and delightfully bracing. As the 
bright beams of the morning sun shone direct- ! 
ly upon and into the long and rocky gorge, 
lighting up, and reflected from stone, foliage, 
and dashing water, the dreary place was in- . 
deed invested with something of beauty ; and [ 
I was inclined to consider it a delightful abode, 
had there only been society, that essential 
thing to meet the demands of almost every 
human heart. According to agreement, my jj 
new companion directed me on my way, by a 
path that saved several miles, conducting me 
safely for a good distance, when he left me, 
with many regrets and good wishes, to con- l j 
tinue my journey alone. At night I camped [ 
on the very spot where I with my two asso- -J 
ciates had spent the night a short time before ; jj 
kindled my fire on some logs that burned [ 
briskly and bright ; boiled water for my tea in s 
the same tin cup which I had carried and used f 



THE SABBATH. 313 

daily on the Peytona, the Nautilus, and the 
Sacusa, in Brazil, Africa, the Isle of France, 
Australia, and Peru. During the day I had 
looked forward with no little apprehension to 
this hour, for I was miles from any human 
being, in mountain forests, noted for abun- 
dance of wild beasts, and haunted in certain 
portions by hostile Indians. But by the time 
I had finished my supper, prepared my resting 
place, replenished my fires, I was quite too 
weary to allow fear its indulgence, and calmly 
rolled myself in my blanket, and went in- 
stantly to sleep. 

Refreshed and invigorated by eight or nine 
hours of sweet repose, I awoke on the morning 
of the Sabbath — the sun already high enough 
to enlighten all the landscape. I sat for a 
time quietly enjoying the scene; and never 
have I experienced an hour of more perfect 
and sacred stillness than then. Not a breeze 
— not a leaf, was stirring. The mountains, 
the valley, and the woods were in still repose, 
save the occasional chirp or twitter of a bird, 
and the faint gurgle of the brook. All over 
the vast mountain that towered above me; 
27 



314 BEGUILING THE WAY. 

the broad, green valley stretching far away 
below ; the groups of trees that crowned the 
rounded hill on which I sat ; the green slopes 
that curved away to the ravine on either side, 
and at the end, like the sides of a vast bastion, 
and even in the pure, motionless air, there 
seemed to be a pervading spirit of peace and 
love. I could not have avoided the feeling, 
even had I wished it, that it was the Sabbath 
of God that made this lovely Sabbath of nature. 
My provisions were scanty, however, and I 
could not remain. Slowly I resumed my toil- 
some march among the mountain defiles, some- 
times talking and singing to myself as I went, 
and enjoying the echo of my own voice; for 
what I repeated in an ordinary tone was often 
echoed with so much distinctness I involun- 
tarily looked around me to discern some quiet 
traveler as yet unperceived. Sometimes I 
sang old songs ; sometimes a psalm tune ; and 
often some of the noble chants of the Episco- 
pal church service. This homely music had a 
curious effect upon my pace, for I repeatedly 
caught myself walking not so much according 
to the measure and rhythm of the tune, as to 



LONELINESS. 315 

the spirit and life of the words. If I sang a 
plaintive song or chanted a solemn chorus, I 
proceeded slowly, and more than once I found 
myself upon a full run, under the inspiriting 
influence of some gay and lively ditty. These 
varied and irregular changes in my speed 
would doubtless have presented a highly ab- 
surd appearance to a spectator knowing noth- 
ing of the cause. A habit of self-questioning 
is very prevalent among mountain men and 
miners — a very natural one ; for having but 
few companions, they would otherwise speak 
but little ; and the defining power of speech, 
except to those carefully trained, or unusually 
gifted with mental clearness, is absolutely es- 
sential to connected, satisfactory thinking. 

I had so long been accustomed to company 
in traveling, I began to think my situation 
dreary in the extreme. The night after the 
Sabbath found me in the heart of the Sierra 
Nevada, fenced in with lofty mountains, tipped 
with snow, while the twinkling stars looked 
down from the vault of heaven, as if in mourn- 
ful sympathy with the lonely wanderer. Sud- 
denly a Waw-shaw Indian appeared, with a 



316 AN UNCOMFORTABLE NIGHT. 

great fish in his hand, which he had caught 
in the lake. We exchanged a few words of 
mountain salutation, and he passed on to his 
encampment, leaving me with no additional 
sense of security. The sun went down, the 
wind began to rise, and soon increased to a 
gale, sweeping down, in furious, sudden blasts, 
from the snowy peaks, w T ailing and whistling, 
while the trees creaked and murmured. Cold 
and weary, with only the dim starlight, and 
ignorant of what perils might be near me, 
my mind became agitated with uncomfortable 
fancies. I could see strange shadows moving 
upon the ground under the trees around me, 
and hear occasional low cries and sounds, like 
groans — probably from some beasts in the 
vicinity. 

Welcome indeed was the first coming of 
dawn ; and as soon as I could distinguish 
the trail I was again on my way. Knowing 
that I was to cross a high ridge some five 
miles distant, I determined to try a shorter 
path, which I fancied would save me a crooked 
journey around and over the intervening hills. 
I wandered over ridges and across canons, 



DOUBT AND ANXIETY. 317 

through woods and streams, until at the end of 
two or three miles I was entirely bewildered 
by the endless changes of the scenery, and 
had quite lost my way. I turned about, and 
very humbly sought my way to the spot from 
whence I had diverged, but not without much 
perplexity. This hour or two of anxiety, while 
my route was doubtful, afforded me more of 
mental torture than I had experiened for a 
long time before. It taught me a lesson, and 
one that I might have learned in Australia — 
that it is exceedingly unsafe, especially for one 
that is alone, to leave the route selected by the 
combined judgment of preceding travelers, for 
the sake of any presumed short path or other 
conveniences. Great was my delight at reach- 
ing Diamond Springs, where I could hear the 
sound of familiar voices. I found them cele- 
brating a public anniversary; the place alive, 
as it were, with preparations for the gay and 
joyful occasion. I only delayed to call upon 
a few friends, and passed on to French Creek, 
where I have established myself at the ranch 
of Captain Pike, where I purpose to spend 
some days in gold-hunting in the vicinity. 
27* 



318 GOLD DIGGING. 

Hard labor, however, is out of the question ; 
for I am more desirous of quiet rest than 
great pecuniary gain. Here, in a secluded 
canon, quite alone, I shall have opportunity for 
much solitary meditation, beside the prospect 
of making about five dollars a week, free of 
expense. The proportion of those who really 
earn any large amount is quite as small in 
California as in Australia. 

If any one would have a sample of gold 
digging, no more satisfactory experiment could 
be made than to take some street where the 
ground is very hard, dig a drain in it, perhaps 
six feet in depth, three in width, and of any 
desirable length. While working at the low- 
er foot of this, all the earth, more especially 
the lumps and harder pieces, should be rubbed 
to fine powder between the hands, closely in-, 
spected, and then thrown away. Such is the 
actual experience of the miners, and that with 
continual disappointment and " hope deferred." 

Thus looking at these things, the admonition 
of the wise man to search for a wisdom " as for 
hid treasures, becomes invested with a ten- 
fold deeper meaning to one at all inclined to 
spiritualize ordinary things and events. 



CHAPTER XV. 

RESIDENCE AT SAN FRANCISCO. — LIFE ON STEAMER 
CORTES. — MISSIONARY TOUR. — SCHOOL TEACHING. 
— CAMP MEETING. 

So infrequent were my journalizing entries 
during a great portion of my life, in California, 
by reason of busy occupation or busy wander- 
ing, I propose to give in the present chapter a 
review of the whole, or mainly, with incidents 
connected thereto, as I contemplated them De- 
cember, 1855, a short time before leaving for 
New England. 

After returning from the mountains, and 
spending some time at French Creek, I took 
up my residence at San Francisco for two 
months, not engaged in any fixed occupation, 
but rendered somewhat uneasy by idly living 
in one place so long. In California, partic- 
ularly, "labor is honorable;" and professing 

(319) 



320 POP CORN. 

a hearty sympathy with this healthy tone of 
public opinion, I at length established myself 
in business, by gathering quite a number of 
subscribers to various weekly and monthly 
periodicals, purchasing at a fair rate from im- 
porters by wholesale, and delivering at retail 
prices immediately upon their arrival. During 
this time I gained many pleasant and profitable 
acquaintances, among whom was a gentleman 
in the " pop-corn " business, who was quite " an 
institution" in the city, receiving a net profit 
of something like ten dollars a day by his 
operations. He was a shrewd Massachusetts 
Yankee, had fully matured his plans before 
coming out, and was ready for action on his 
arrival. His corn was shipped to him from 
New England, around the Horn ; he parched it 
himself at night, and with not less than eighty 
or a hundred quarts, modestly promenaded the 
streets with an enormous basket on each arm, 
waiting on chance or regular * customers in a 
very quiet way, in no wise detracting from his 
dignity. Indeed, he filled the office just as a 
dignified republican ought to fill any office, 
being a valuable member of society, and at the 
«irr\e time consulted his own best interests. 



NEW EMPLOYMENT. 321 

Having laid up some money, and being able 
to command a little credit and influence, my 
views began somewhat to enlarge, and I con- 
ceived a plan for establishing a bookstore, in 
company with a young man of my acquaint- 
ance. Ere the thing was decided in the mind 
of my proposed partner, another opportunity 
presented itself of employment in another 
direction. Another acquaintance, who had 
been storekeeper on the steamship Cortes, 
running between San Francisco and San Juan 
del Sur, on the Nicaragua route, was about to 
give up his place, and offered to aid me in 
securing the position if I wished. Prompti- 
tude is the first of practical virtues, especially 
in California ; and acting on this, the bookstore 
scheme was dropped, the kind offer of my 
friend accepted, and I was speedily installed 
in my new post, once more floating on salt 
water. 

The position of storekeeper on one of these 
large ocean steamers is one of no small respon- 
sibility and influence. The steamer itself, with 
its multitude of passengers, constitutes a kind 
of floating city, with great interests and great 



322 THE OCEAN STEAMER. 

revenues. We were accustomed to carry about 
three hundred firstrcabin passengers, at three 
hundred dollars each, making ninety thousand 
dollars ; and five hundred in the second cabin, 
at one hundred and fifty dollars ; which, together 
with what was realized from freight, often 
amounted to the handsome sum of one hundred 
and eighty-five thousand dollars the single trip. 
Including passengers, officers, and crew, the 
whole number of souls on board was usually 
about a thousand ; and by virtue of my of- 
fice, I was in charge of all the provisions and 
groceries for this large number, which it was 
my duty to serve out daily, according to the 
written demands made upon me by the steward. 
I found myself at once a universal favorite 
among the ship's company, treated by all (ex- 
cept, of course, the superior officers) with a 
degree of attention which I was scarcely con- 
scious of deserving, and which I could scarcely 
account for, until I learned that my position 
enabled me, even without violating any obliga- 
tion, to show many trifling favors, in matters 
of gastronomy. Then the reason of the flat- 
tering regard was clear ; and had I chosen to 



THE ILL-FATED YANKEE BLADE. 323 

be a little less virtuous, it is difficult to tell 
what the limits of my influence might have 
been. It was on board this ship I first knew 
the unfortunate steamship Yankee Blade. She 
lay upon the other side of the dock we occu- 
pied, and left the city at the same time with 
us. She was an immense vessel, crowded be- 
yond all description. I gazed in perfect aston- 
ishment at the mass of human beings that 
crowded her every part as she glided away 
from the wharf into the bay. She could not 
have had less than fifteen hundred souls on 
board, more than a thousand of whom were 
lost this same trip, in the fearful wreck it ex- 
perienced. Suspicions of foul play were in the 
minds of many, for she carried an immense 
treasure beside what was in the hands of the 
passengers, and ran upon the beach in a clear 
night, in calm weather, in a manner that has 
always remained a mystery. 

During the second voyage in the steamer 
Cortes, I made an excursion to the Pearl 
Islands, which are scarcely more than a group 
of low rocks and reefs in the sea, the largest 
only being inhabited, and that by a sort of old 



324 PEARL ISLANDS. 

patriarch, and fifteen or twenty Indians, who 
have to bring their water from the main land, 
and who live by fishing. Here we obtained 
about twenty varieties of pearl oysters, cyprese, 
&c., some quite rare and valuable. We gath- 
ered many that yet contained the living in- 
habitants, quaintly formed molluscs, fantasti- 
cally mottled, striped and speckled with bright 
colors, giving a very different impression of the 
natural history of the class from that derived 
only from the study of the dry shell. My life 
on shipboard, during these two voyages, was 
not marked with any incidents of special in- 
terest. The duties of my occupation kept me 
closely confined to the store room most of the 
time, and leisure at command was employed in 
assisting the purser in writing. The confine- 
ment in such hot, oppressive atmosphere telling 
sensibly upon my health, I availed myself of 
the first suitable occasion to resign, and went 
on shore again. The mate left at the same 
time, purchased a vessel, and made a propo- 
sition which I conditionally accepted, to accom- 
pany him as a sort of supercargo in a trading 
voyage to China and the seas adjacent ; but 



PETALUMA. 325 

this, it seems, was not " to be my destined end 
and way." While determining and securing 
the necessary outfit, I fell in with Rev. Mr. 
Richardson, who was about making a tour of 
exploration, in behalf of a missionary body, 
through Petaluma and Santa Rosa valleys and 
the country thereabout. I at first declined 
his invitation to join him in this excursion, on 
account of sailing for China ; but finding that I 
could return in season, I concluded to accom- 
pany him, and we took the steamer together 
for Petaluma. We crossed the bay, and en- 
tered the creek, to which a spur of the coast 
range extends, skirting its valley with a mar- 
gin of low, conical hills ; some rugged and wild 
in outline, and others rounded and smooth ; 
some thickly wooded with oak and mansanita 
bushes, and others quite bare, except for a 
thick coat of "wild oats," which were just 
springing up fresh and green, it being the 
i growing month of January. The creek is the 
most crooked stream I have ever navigated, 
winding about in the most extravagant man- 
ner, as if anxious to detain all coiners as long 
as possible. Upon reaching the town, we found 
28 



326 VISIT TO FATHER GUERNSEY. 

it to be a scattered collection, mostly of wooden 
houses. We proceeded to the tavern, where, 
in looking over some pictures, I was startled 
to behold the face of a friend, whose location 
in the wide world I had not known for years, 
but who, my hostess informed me, was not 
more than ten rods distant — the principal of 
a nourishing school of one hundred and fifty 
students. We immediately repaired to his 
school house — a roomy and convenient build- 
ing, well fitted, and furnished with modern 
desks, maps, globes, and other apparatus, giving 
to it a character and solidity that quite sur- 
prised and pleased us, and at once produced 
favorable impressions of the progress of this 
rural district in education and general intel- 
ligence. 

From this place we proceeded to Petaluma 
Flat, or rather across it, to the dwelling of 
" Father Guernsey," which we found with little 
difficulty, as every one knew the home of the 
venerable man. We found him working at his 
trade of chair making, and understood that 
both himself and chairs were known in the 
vicinity, there being no other one of the pro- 



ATTENDANCE ON A PRAYER MEETING. 327 

fession in the place, and none other who, like 
him, devotes all the time and strength which 
he can spare from business to the spiritual 
wants of the population. 

Upon learning our errand, he received us 
with cordial hospitality, and laying aside his 
tools, proceeded to give Mr. R. much and ju- 
dicious information relative to the purpose of 
his trip. 

He was a man of commanding presence, 
with fine head and features, full of kindness 
and intelligence ; had resided in the place three 
years, and was able to speak of the moral and 
intellectual condition of the people with some 
degree of accuracy. After spending a social 
hour with him at his table, he spoke of an ap- 
pointment to hold a prayer meeting, and in- 
vited us to accompany him thither, adding, in a 
rather significant way, that the Home Mission- 
ary Society had sent out a man to help him, 
jand that he would conduct the exercises of the 
our. The place of assembly was a log school 
ouse, a mile or two away on the Petaluma 
ide of the creek. The gathered worshipers 
jwere thirty or forty plain men and women, 



328 SINGULAR SERVICES. 

some of them rough emigrants, mostly from the 
Western States, yet of warm hearts, and sin- 
cere, though blunt, in speaking of things divine 
as well as temporal. They seemed to have 
come together for earnest and affectionate com- 
munion with each other, and to pour out their 
hearts unitedly before God. 

The missionary entered, — a spruce, dignified 
young graduate from an eastern theological 
seminary, — clad in garments of spotless black. 
There were a few moments of silence, when 
the young brother rose and offered a short but 
earnest prayer, after which he read a hymn, 
which was sung by the little company. A 
pause of full ten minutes ensued, in no wise 
disturbing the gravity or dignity of the young 
divine, and then the benediction was pro- 
nounced, and the assembly was dismissed. 
There was something so irresistibly comic in 
the utter helplessness and complete frustration 
of the divine, that few faces were without a 
smile, giving rise to the apprehension that 
many had more of fun in their hearts than 
religious consolation as the effect of the 
meeting. 



EXCURSION UP COUNTRY. 329 

I realized at once the difference, not between 
the religions, but the religious exercises of 
the eastern seminary and the western heart. 
This young clergyman would doubtless have 
done well at home, with a few active Christian 
men to sustain him, where every thing is done 
by a kind of rule ; but here, where there is 
no particular rule, where all denominations are 
fused together, and where very little is said, or 
can be said, except from the overflowings of 
rude but honest hearts, the poor man was as 
helpless with his theology and his ways, as if 
he had come to swim in the ocean with fet- 
ters on. 

Next morning, Mr. R and myself made a 
little excursion some twenty miles up the 
country, in the direction of Santa Eosa, stop- 
ping at almost every house in the prosecution 
of our inquiries. Nearly all the inhabitants 
are Pikes, or from the region adjacent to that 
famous county of Missouri which is commonly 
called " the State of Pike," and which has con- 
tributed a very large and distinctly marked 
element to the population of California. 

We found a very few Bibles, and scarcely 
28* 



330 ARRIVAL AT SANTA ROSA. 

any books, or printed matter of any kind, ex- 
cept a portion of the miserable « yellow-covered 
literature" which has had so immense a sale 
in this state as well as most others. In spite 
of ignorance and uncultivation, however, there 
was a hearty, overflowing hospitality and good 
feeling about the people that really delighted 
us. Every one was glad to see us, pleased at 
our errand, and as anxious as any apostle could 
have desired for the establishment of schools 
and churches in the land. 

Thus exploring and inquiring, we reached 
Santa Kosa, a thriving place, and the county 
seat, situated in the midst of a vast natural 
park not quite as large as Petaluma. Here I 
left Mr. Kichardson, in order to return, but not 
without strong and repeated solicitations that 
I would abandon my intention of foreign 
travel, and engage in teaching school in the 
valleys of Sonoma county. My own inclina- 
tions were at once in favor of so doing, for I 
felt myself exceedingly charmed with the 
lovely landscape, the perfect climate and rich 
soil of the region, as well as the free and open- 
hearted character of the people. Not wishing 



REJOICINGS. 331 

to be hasty, however, I avoided giving any 
answer, and returned to Petaluma, where I 
found my friends anxious for the same thing. 
Indeed, the eagerness of the Petaluma people, 
men, women, and speculators, for the growth 
and improvement of their place, passed all my 
conceptions, though, doubtless, the ambition of 
the latter was strongly tinctured with self- 
ishness. The place numbered some five hun- 
dred souls, and was still increasing. We were 
wont to say the town grew with every arrival 
of the boat. Especially did the crowd at the 
landing place rejoice if they could discern the 
face of a woman on deck. For every bonnet 
they could count, the real-estate proprietors 
said to themselves, K So many building lots 
sold at paying prices." I have actually seen 
tears in the eyes of these earnest watchmen at 
an unusually large feminine immigration, evi- 
dently from pure joy at the prospect of their 
remunerative sales. " Every tear is a dollar," 
remarked a friend of mine one day, as he 

| pointed out one of these lachrymose rejoicers. 
Having consulted with my friends at San 

! Francisco, and finding their advice to coin- 



332 TAKING A RANCH. 

cide with my own preference, I notified_my } 
friend, the captain, of a change of plans ; fully 
determined to cast in my lot among the free- 
hearted and stirring people of the valley of 
Petaluma. I took a ranch near the centre, 
which consisted of a few acres fenced in, a 
small but comfortable house, of redwood slabs, 
and " all creation " back of me, to the Pacific 
Ocean, for a grazing range. A friendly house- I 
wife offered to supply me with milk ; different ] 
farmers allowed me the free use of their horses, ; 
and thus I was installed landholder, house- 
keeper, and citizen of the town of Petaluma. 
I soon had the pleasure of receiving my sister 
and her family to my home, which now as- f 
sumed the more dignified cognomen of u coun- f 
try seat," in connection with, and in distinction 
from, their city residence. During the whole 
warm season, it was gladdened by the city f 
people, who took great satisfaction in the clear, f 
country air, and the rude but healthful country l 

re on men. 

. i 

The chosen location for my school was 

Vallejo township, not far from my ranch. r 

Father Waugh, the chairman of the committee, f 



SCHOOL EXAMINATION. 333 

J was an excellent and much-respected citizen, 
j a pioneer settler of the region, having been 
> obliged to leave Missouri, his native state, on 
1 account of anti-slavery sentiments. 

The examination was brief, the most diffi- 
cult question being " Do you keep loud or still 
school?" I had not known the distinction, 
and, after a moment's reflection, answered at 
hazard, — reasoning, g a priori," that the most 
quiet school is the best,— that I kept still 
school, by all means. The demeanor of the 
committee assured me I had given the right 
answer; the certificate was granted, due no- 
tice given, and I met my pupils in the school 
house — a set of hearty, good-natured boys 
and girls, the majority of them Missourians 
by birth or parentage. Ignorant of their pre- 
vious discipline and present attainments, and 
desirous of gaining some acquaintance with 
their ways, I simply announced that they 
might take their books and proceed in the 
usual manner. It was then I learned the full 
significance of f loud school." Opening their 
well-used books, every one, at the full stretch 
of their voices, began studying their various 



334 PECUNIARY LOSSES. 

lessons aloud; some standing, some sitting, 
others summoning assistance from the further 
side of the room, and still others leaving the 
house and coming back at pleasure. One day 
of such experience was amply sufficient, and 
the second I proceeded to classify and ar- 
range more according to my mind, and speedily 
had the satisfaction of seeing my little king- 
dom upon a footing more consistent with the 
character of a good school. I succeeded in 
varying the regular succession of ordinary 
school exercises, much to the acceptance of 
the young people, by a singing and spelling 
school, which was held in the evening, and 
passed off with great enthusiasm. 

All parties expressed entire satisfaction, and 
I was fain to console myself with this glory, 
in the loss of wealth which accrued to me by 
reason of the failure of many of my employ- 
ers to pay me my dues. They were good 
friends; unvaryingly kind and hospitable; 
but they were by nature careless, by habit 
more so in pecuniary matters; and in this | 
purely agricultural community of new settlers, 
many of them really had not the money at 



THE SLEW. 335 

command. They were ready to turn out what- 
ever they had — one man a lot of hogs ; one 
a quantity of growing trees from his nursery j 
and another some summer butter ; but being 
quite disinclined to the bartering business, I 
preferred to let the balance, some hundred and 
fifty dollars, remain uncollected. The trip I 
made to the school superintendent's residence, 
to obtain his authority in enabling me to 
draw my share of public money, was very 
characteristic of California life. He lived — 
nobody knew exactly where — somewhere up 
in the woods beyond Santa Eosa. I could 
scarcely afford to wait his uncertain coming ; 
so, obtaining a horse, I started in pursuit of 
him. Coming within four or five miles of 
the neighborhood where I expected to find 
him, my path was interrupted by a broad 
" slew " of black mud, of uncommonly sticky 
appearance. It must be tried; and on we 
went, and in two jumps my gray horse was 
saddle deep, and still sinking. I grasped the 
end of the long tether, and by a violent ef- 
fort, succeeded in throwing myself upon firm 
ground, on the further side. By sharp disci- 



336 VISIT TO DR. B. 

pline then extricated my horse, but in such 
a condition as to make further riding out of 
the question. I therefore led him the rest 
of the way, and toward dusk arrived at the 
residence of Dr. B. in a woeful plight. Mrs. 
B. appeared at the door of her slab man- 
sion, holding up her hands in astonishment, 
and exclaimed, " Here, doctor, go get a hoe 
and scrape this man before he comes into 
my house ! " Her obedient lord obeyed, and 
then brought me before a vast fire of logs, in 
an enormous chimney place, before which I 
stood, turning round and round, like a turkey 
dangling by a string to roast, until I was com- 
pletely dried. With due brushing and a re- 
freshing supper, I was metamorphosed into a 
new man, spent the evening in pleasant con- 
versation, transacted my business, and next ; 
day returned to Petaluma by a different and 
less muddy route. 

During my term of teaching, which occu- 
pied some six months, I made many pleasant 
and valuable acquaintances; was also able to | 
make myself of some service by rendering 
occasional assistance at the few religious ser- 



CAMP MEETING. 337 

vices of the neighborhood, which were the 
only substitute, in these remote valleys, for 
the stated Sabbath meetings of older eastern 
communities. Much the most striking reli- 
gious solemnity, however, at which I was pres- 
ent, was the yearly camp meeting attended 
in the woods. 

This institution is the natural and appropriate 
outgrowth of the weeds and peculiarities of 
the western mind. In the Eastern States, 
where the * regularly organized assemblies for 
worship are sufficient for all, these forest gath- 
ings are superfluous, unnatural, and out of 
place, and by necessary consequence, almost 
absurd and harmful, being little better than 
occasion for riot and frivolity. 

In the thinly-settled and poor communities 
of the new Western States, among a people 
who can but rarely support settled ministers, 
and whose whole mental and moral nature is 
of a type, out of all comparison more spon- 
taneous, fervid, and sympathetic than that of 
their deliberate and cautious brethren at the 
east, these great gatherings are a true and 
J proper expression of religious sentiment, con- 
29 



338 HARMONY OF THE WORSHIPERS. 

sistent, and agreeing with the enthusiasm of 
their political mass meetings, and the thorough- 
going energy of their business enterprise. 

Every year, in August, it is usual, in Sonoma 
county and elsewhere, to hold these general 
jubilees. Christians of all denominations meet 
in some open grove, near a stream of water, 
and remain, according to circumstances, a few 
days or longer. The worshipers gather some- 
times from a circle a hundred miles in diame- 
ter, and remain in tents during the continuance 
of the meeting. Denominational differences are ! 
laid aside, and the entire proceedings conducted j 
in the broadest and most harmonious spirit of 
universal Christianity. At the single meeting [ 
I attended, I was astonished at the depth and | 
evident truthfulness of religious feeling which j? 
was manifested. It was here I witnessed one j 
of those impressive and extraordinary spec- 1 
tacles sometimes peculiar to these occasions. [ 
At the close of a long and fervid season of |- 
prayer, exhortation, and singing, came a short ( 
pause, which was interrupted by a woman, who tj 
stepped in front of the desk. She was crip-} 
pled and bent by disease, but possessed high ij 






AN INTERESTING SCENE. 339 

and striking features, dark, expressive eyes, 
and every appearance of strong and elevated 
character. In a clear, musical voice, and in 
natural and appropriate words, she narrated to 
the hushed and startled audience a short story 
of suffering and sorrow, and described the con- 
solation she had found in religion amid it all • 
adding, that the only thing remaining for her 
to ask was, that her only children, a son and a 
daughter of adult age, then and there present, 
might share with her in the hopes of Christian- 
ity ; and she called upon all to join their prayers 
with hers that this crowning blessing might be 
granted to a widow, and a woman of many 
sorrows. Then kneeling at once upon the 
place, she poured out her soul in a prayer of 
such passionate fervor, such beseeching earnest- 
ness, as melted the hearts of all. It is impos- 
sible to describe the emotion visible upon every 
countenance; but when the two children, in 
very truth, did issue from the crowd and knelt 
beside their aged mother, their eyes streaming 
1 with tears of repentance and gratitude, mingled 
together, — when it appeared that the blessing 
had descended even while they sought it, — there 



340 EFFECT UPON THOSE PRESENT. 

was an almost overwhelming outburst of sym-i 
pathetic joy. Scarcely a face within the tent/ 
crowded as it was with wandering, toil-hard- 
ened, weather-beaten men and women, inured 
to hardship and suffering, but streamed with 
tears ; indeed, so strong was the tempest of 
feeling, it was impossible, for some considerable' 
time, for either ministers or hearers to resume 
the regular order of exercises. It must be a 
shallow soul — one-sided, ignorant, scant of hu- 
man instincts, and of just thought, or, at least,, 
wofully hampered with fetters of precedent \ 
and habit — that would refuse to recognize 1 
the suitableness and power of such gatherings, 
especially in these new places. Nor is it any! 
argument against them that their more grave j 
and impressive features are occasionally varied 
by others even of a ludicrous character. 

It was during this same meeting I entered 
one of the tents in the midst of an enthusi- 
astic hymn, which was sung, as usual, by the 
entire congregation. I took the only vacant 
seat, which brought me in close proximity to a 
good old colored woman of large proportions, 
well known in the vicinity as " Aunt Peggy." 



AUNT PEGGY. 341 

She bore her part in the singing with all the 
' enthusiasm of the African character — shutting 
I her eyes, and rocking to and fro with great 

quickness of motion. Opening her eyes, she 
] suddenly caught a glimpse of me ; and with 
• a face perfectly radiant with joy and true 
! benevolence, she cried out, forgetting every 
j thing except the glories of heaven, and the 
j hopes of reaching them herself, and meeting 
. her friends there, " Bress de Lord, broder 
Welles, I didn't know you was so near me! 
We'll go to heaven togeder — won't we ? " and 
therewith threw her arms about my neck in a 
most fervent embrace. The dismay and staring 
confusion of certain young ministers who were 
present, and, like him of Petaluma, fresh from 
an eastern theological seminary, may be im- 
agined. They sat in silent amazement, unable 
to speak or sing. They had intended to assist 
in the exercises of the meeting, but had rio 
power to do it, even in spirit. One of them, 
meeting me at the close of the evening, whis- 
pered cautiously in my ear, a I don't understand 
this, brother Welles ; I never saw any thing of 
this kind before. I don't know what to make 
29* 



342 REFLECTIONS. 

of it. You think it all correct and expedient 
— do you ?" I comforted the good man as well 
as I could; but nothing short of a thorough 
putting off of all his preconceived opinions 
about forms and observances, and an assimila- 
tion to these new ways of thinking and acting, j 
can reconcile him to the scenes of a California | 
camp meeting ; and such a change is not the 
work of a day, especially for the graduate of 
an eastern seminary. In proportion to one's j 
adaptation to circumstances is his power to 
enjoy a new country, with its customs and 
manners more or less strange, and his ability 
to do good. My quota of enjoyment has been i 
realized in this delightful portion of the world. \ 
In after years memory will revert to these ' 
scenes *with peculiar pleasure. I go now to 
my native land, to the scenes of ray early 
youth, the friends I love ; and if life is spared 
to recount to them the adventures of my re- 
cent history, I shall have occasion to say on 
every hand, — 

" Thus far the Lord hath led me on." 



1 



CHAPTER XVI. 

VOYAGE HOME. — ATTEMPT AT SUICIDE. — NATURAL 
FEATURES OF CALIFORNIA. — REFLECTIONS UPON MEN 
AND MANNERS. — SUPERIORITY OF AMERICAN CHAR- 
ACTER. 

My residence in Petaluma might have lasted 
a lifetime, perhaps, had not a combination of 
circumstances rendered it seemingly necessary 
for me to return to New England. My voyage 
across the Isthmus was without any special 
interest, unless it was an attempt at suicide 
which was made as we were entering Panama 
Bay. It was a young girl, disappointed, and 
for the time nearly crazed, by not meeting 
friends whom she had expected on her way. 
She jumped overboard from the steamer, in- 
tending to escape from such a troublesome 
world by drowning. The sea water, and the 
tremendous idea of death which came from 
the sense of its absolute nearness, worked an 

(843) 



344 RETURN HOME. 

instantaneous revulsion in her feelings, and 
she implored them to rescue her. Being float- 
ed by means of her dress, the boat of the 
steamer was sent out, and she was brought on 
board mortified, and apparently satisfied to 
live as long as she could. A fair opportunity 
to see how it would seem would probably pre- 
vent a vast majority from prosecuting their 
suicidal folly. 

I reached my native land after about three 
years of absence, most of it consumed in the 
wanderings^ of the desultory circumnavigation, 
the adventures of which I have related, not with 
any particular ecstasies of patriotism or joy, 
but, as in regard to most other human events, 
with mingled emotions of pain and pleasure. A 
large portion of my time was spent in Califor- 
nia, and therefore impressions of life in this 
place are more vivid and distinct than those 
of any other. California is, indeed, a splendid 
country to live in. Its atmosphere, not only 
natural, but social and mental, has a strangely 
invigorating and pleasing effect upon those is- 
suing from the comparatively conventional and 
humdrum life of the old states at the east 



■ THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. 345 

There is a free, truthful, and sincere activity, 
strength, and decision, in the society exceed- 
ingly attractive to most minds. Both men 
and women are deeply interested in whatever 
relates to the welfare and prosperity of the 
Pacific state. The Vigilance Committee, and 
various other organizations of the kind out- 
side San Francisco, are to be reckoned not 
lawless or rebellious, but simply as spontaneous 
combinations for suppressing wrong and up- 
holding the purity of the republic — such as 
would be impossible in an eastern state or 
city, solely for the lack of the requisite union 
of honesty and vigor in political and moral 
character. 

The broad, clear vigor of mind shown so 
early in the existence of the state is to be ac- 
counted for partly in the natural action of strong 
and right-minded men, thrown together under 
circumstances which render them at once inde- 
pendent in courses of individual life, thought, 
and action ; and singularly inter-dependent in 
all the purposes of action as a united people. 

Another cause, perhaps hardly less efficient, 
- is the stimulating power of this region. There 



346 A ROVING SCOTCHMAN. 

is a strange and peculiar exhilaration in the 
very air of California, which belongs also to 
the whole vast range of the Pacific basin. 
Many seem equally content to settle or to 
roam about the lands or the waters of this 
enchanted realm. 

A story was told me of a wealthy young 
Scotchman, — a baronet it was said, — who 
owned a swift and beautiful schooner, and con- 
stantly lived in her — the life, as it were, of a 
proud sea-king. His little craft now and then 
entered the harbor of San Francisco, or was 
heard of at Honolulu, or some other distant 
port, having put in for supplies. At other 
times he was cruising to and fro, or delaying 
at his pleasure at some beautiful island harbor, 
enjoying the delights of sun and air, earth and 
ocean, in the paradise of the South Pacific — as 
nearly a perfect life as the world can furnish 
for physical pleasure. 

I have known more than one instance where 
emigrants from the east have resided for a 
while in California, grown homesick, and re- 
turned only to find themselves, after a short 
Stay, pining still more strongly for the balmy 



CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA. 347 

air and magnificent climate, the fruit and flow- 
ers they had left, than for the old associations, 
conveniences, and privileges of their eastern 
home. 

There is no. winter except a rainy season, 
which lasts from October to April, during which 
frost is unknown. The temperature of the first 
January of my stay ranged from fifty to sev- 
enty degrees ; scarcely a day when one might 
not take a pleasant and healthful walk in the 
open air. 

The climate is without either extreme ; be- 
ing no frost in winter or dog-days in summer. 
There is always a sea breeze at night along 
the coast, and an occasional morning fog is dis- 
persed by the sun at about ten o'clock, A. M., 
in season for a day warm, but not oppressive. 
The harsh, dry heat, the raw Atlantic fogs, the 
piercing cold of north-east storms, are un- 
known. It is doubtless the healthiest country 
in the world. 

Farming and gardening are a wonder to the 
eastern man, w T ith his long winter, hot and 
hurrying summer, hard and meager soil, and his 
severe labor. No stores of winter fodder are 



348 UNPARALELED VEGETATION. 

needed ; there is not one day in the year when 
he cannot work in the ground. One Bodega 
potato has been known to suffice two or three 
men at dinner. Grains of different kinds more 
than double the Atlantic crops. Fruit is yield- - 
ed from seed or cuttings a full year sooner 
than at the east. Fresh vegetables and fruit 
are in the market at San Francisco every 
month in the year; and to the whole circle of 
productions of the Northern States are added 
many more of almost tropical character. Figs 
grow and prosper in the open air, and the nu t- 
meg is a native production of one portion of 
the state. In favorable exposures there is 
little doubt that a large class of the distinctive 
tropical fruits could be produced with slight 
protection, if not actually naturalized. 

Petaluma and its neighborhood, where I 
spent a greater part of my time, is a very 
paradise for the farmer. Almost the whole of 
Sonoma county, which is as large as the entire 
State of Connecticut, lies in a broad and fertile 
valley of rich meadows and grassy uplands, a 
hundred and fifty miles in length, and from forty 
to eighty broad, whose natural riches and capa- 



MINERAL WEALTH. 349 

bilities are but little known even in San Fran- 
cisco. Many of the farmers entered this region 
ten years since, purchased land of the Spanish 
proprietors, and entered at once upon the 
business of cattle raising, killing them chiefly 
for the hides, at a profit perhaps of two dollars 
a head. The gold discoveries, and the cities 
that have consequently grown up around them, 
have put a stop to these wasteful operations, 
and many large fortunes have been made by 
the sale of meat and produce to the mountain 
miners and city markets. These opportuni- 
ties for certain and regular profits from agri- 
culture increase every year with the growth 
of city and country. 

With these advantages, and the valuable 
resources of gold, quicksilver, -and other metals 
and minerals ; with a population already nu- 
merous and ever increasing, and a territory 
capable of supporting twenty millions, at the 
rate of population per square mile of the State 
of New York; and with the present prospects 
for moral and intellectual improvement from 
the educational, benevolent, and religious in- 
fluences and institutions already established 
30 



350 FRUITS OF MY TRAVELS. 

and operating, — it is impossible to limit the 
splendor of the future for California. 

The chief inquiries that have been pro- 
pounded to me by those to whom I have re- 
hearsed the reminiscences of my travels, are 
such as these : " What were you driving at ? 
What were you trying to do? What is the 
result of it all ? " In the first place, at the 
point of departure, I was a discouraged man, 
unhappy in mind, weak in body, and not with- 
out symptoms of pulmonary disease. With a 
substantially rebuilt constitution, it has given 
me contentment and an equability of mind 
altogether above valuation. It is true I can 
not lay down any plan upon which I pro- 
ceeded, covering the entire time and space of 
my travels. I did not go with a settled pur- 
pose of obtaining information, nor gold, nor 
* specimens," nor after any thing else that I 
could tell, although I returned with more or 
less of all these. I could boast a collection of 
shells numbering five thousand or more, and 
of no small value for scientific purposes ; a 
good, though less extensive collection of min- 
erals, including gold and silver ore, agates, 



VALUE OF TRAVEL. 351 

cornelians, bloodstones, pearls, and many mis- 
cellaneous curiosities ; beside an inexhaustible 
store of recollections of persons, places, and 
things ; of manners and customs ; observations 
upon human nature, which are continually do- 
ing good service by furnishing material for 
comparison and reflection. 

In spite of the lack of any abstract unity of 
purpose, or any elaborate plan, — even though 
I can only say that an instinct for wander- 
ing carried me along, — I apprehend most men 
will count these three years as far from mis- 
spent. In what other way the fruits of travel 
can be gained I have yet to learn ; and I am 
further ignorant of any experience so rich and 
available as sources of knowledge of men and 
minds. During the latter part of my stay 
abroad, and since my return home, I have met 
with some few of the various companions of 
my wanderings; and the intelligence I have 
been able to gather respecting the unlucky 
Peytona may not be uninteresting to those 
who have followed her through a disastrous, 
| shifting, and a shiftless" voyage. She was con- 
! demned and sold at Port Louis, on account 



352 THE PEYTONA. 

of her passengers remaining there ; bringing 
about nine thousand dollars, which gave to 
each person about fifty dollars to enable them 
to leave the island. The price was given for 
the beauty of her model, which was one of 
the first and best of Donald M'Kay's long line 
of triumphs in clipper ship building, rather 
than for any great value in her strained and 
weather-beaten hulk. She was thoroughly re- 
built, christened again by a name I do not 
know, and is probably at this moment plying 
about the Indian Ocean, or China Sea, laden 
with sugar or opium, swarming with centi- 
pedes and scorpions, and manned by rice- 
eating, inefficient Lascars. What became of 
the captain, his swearing mate, and mutinous 
crew, I know not. The fortunes and mis- 
fortunes of the hapless company would doubt- 
less be a curious chapter in the history of 
human affairs, were they known. 

Advice which I can give to travelers is of 
trifling moment, and can of course be applied 
only to those whose journeyings are similar to 
my own. Seasickness — that frightful thing, 
concerning which so many speculate, and which 



HINTS TO TRAVELERS. 353 

many know by a meaning deeper than specu- 
lation — is one of those things to be considered 
on a long voyage. My belief is, that no pre- 
caution whatever can be relied upon; that 
some persons will never feel it; that some may 
escape it, by attention to diet before embark- 
ing; by being much in the open air, or pre- 
serving a horizontal position on board; and 
that others will have it under any circum- 
stances whatever. Persons of a sanguine and 
nervous temperament are most subject to it. 
The resolute maintenance of good temper, 
cheerful endurance of whatever befalls, and 
above all, a continual endeavor to be helpful 
and encouraging to others, are points of cardi- 
nal importance to the traveler; for the mind 
occupied in alleviating the miseries of others 
is certain to forget its own. By practicing 
some such hints, with others suggested by 
wiser travelers, and such- as every one's own 
foresight or experience may dictate, the va- 
rious difficulties and hardships incident to 
" second-class " style of traveling, which neces- 
sity compelled me to adopt, may be much 
lightened. Yet, after all, this mode cannot 
30* 



354 THE EFFECTS OF TRAVELING. 

be recommended, if by any possible means it 
can be avoided, as its influence upon charac- 
ter is far from being desirable. One is thus 
thrown, usually, among the vulgar and igno- 
rant, where he must absolutely practice a 
sharp system of self-defending circumspection, 
and assertion of his own rights, nearly border- 
ing upon selfishness and dishonesty ; and very 
naturally slides into the opinion that whatever 
wrong doing he is tempted to commit, will 
remain unknown to the circle of his friends 
and home neighbors, among whom his repu- 
tation chiefly exists. The steady operation of 
these influences, so dilapidating to the strength 
and perfection of the moral sense, is hardly 
ever counteracted, even for a little time, by 
the society of the good. 

The decided tendency of traveling any way, 
is to develop into a master-passion the innate 
disposition in the human mind to lead a rest- 
less, roving life. Too many of the great army 
of men who have left the United States within 
the past few years, have either become ir- 
reclaimable wanderers, or returned to their 
homes discontented, unhappy, aimless and use- 



CURIOSITY. 355 

less. In that large class who are driven away 
from home, or fancy they are, by domestic or 
other troubles, we find these effects very nat- 
urally intensified. Thus the man who left 
home a very respectable member of society, 
with good intentions and habits, a perception 
of right and wrong, a sense of obligation to 
God and man, and in the habitual practice of 
some effort at improvement of mind and soul, 
often becomes, if nothing worse, improvident, 
reckless, careless of every thing except the 
comfort and pleasure of the present day, sink- 
ing in every respect far below the dignity of 
his nature. My own countrymen I invaria- 
bly found to be superior, in most respects, to 
those of other countries and nations. 

Their most unseemly trait is inquisitiveness, 
which they gratify without regard to things 
divine or human, in a manner often insufferably 
impertinent. Curiosity is no less apparent. 
This characteristic shone forth with wonderful 
power during our stay at Bahia, where our 
fellow-passengers visited every church, han- 
dling pictures, images, and every thing within 
reach. Many a dark stain was left upon white 



356 PECULIAR TRAITS. 

marble statues, gilded picture frames, and other 
ornamental fixtures, all over the city, to attest 
the rigid investigation of these peering visitors. 
When they had seen the building, they applied 
themselves to the worshipers. I have seen 
devotees kneeling before an image, praying 
with the absorbing fervor of a sincere Roman- 
ist, apparently unconscious that they were 
quite surrounded by the curious faces of a 
dozen strangers, watching to see "how they 
did it." 

Many more were those who wrote or carved 
their names, with dates or strange devices, in 
all manner of places — a custom of erect- 
ing monuments to one's self, which, however, 
is no more common among Americans, who 
have no other way of becoming celebrated, 
than among cockneys, or any other class of 
wanderers. 

These demonstrations were a cause of won- 
dering disgust to the inhabitants, who will not 
even mind their own business, if they can help 
it, much less any body's else. Their quiet, 
listless ways were a constant surprise to us. 
Nobody gazed at us in the churches or in the 



SUPERIORITY OF AMERICANS. 357 

streets. Under circumstances that would have 
drawn the attention of every eye in a New- 
England church, we might have entered a 
Eomish cathedral without receiving even a 
look from the listless or earnest devotees. 

Having said this, the worst is said. In all 
other respects whatever, Americans abroad are 
beyond measure superior to all other nations 
in morality, good manners, good nature, good 
companionship, friendliness, and generosity; 
this, however, not urged in competition with 
the remarkable, thorough-going, and almost 
universal display of the last three qualities 
among English seamen. In business, shrewd- 
ness, energy, tact, invention, and success, they 
far exceed all others. All improvements at 
Ballerat in the process of mining had been 
made by Yankees, and the same may be said 
in other directions. 

One, however, prosecuting any enterprise, is 
obliged to encounter the whole strength of a 
bitter and ignorant national dislike, by reason 
of much prejudice against foreigners, which is 
more or less strong in all places. 

The homely rhymes of the poet will finally 



358 REFLECTIONS. 

serve to express a yet more comprehensive 
summary of my experiences : — 

" This world is not so bad a world 
As some would choose to make it ; 
But whether good or whether bad, 
Depends on how you take it." 

There is good in the world, and about almost 
every body in the world ; and he who looks out 
keenly and good naturedly, not only for him- 
self, but for others, will be sure to succeed. 

He will, in a certain sense, be a friend of 
" God and Mammon" — two effective allies ; for 
men help him who helps them, and a God helps 
him who helps himself." 



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